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[Official] The Cyborg R.A.T. and M.M.O Owners Club - Page 371

post #3701 of 3834
Owned a RAT 7 for 6 years almost now, only button that i ever had issues with was the encoder wheel and the click on MMB. Finally decided to replace the encoder and also replaced LMB and RMB, some pics of the teardown.

(the MMB click uses some strange smaller than usual micro switch and was a ***** to find, the encoder wheel too is a uncommon size from what i found)

GORE PICS Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

post #3702 of 3834
does the top just pop/pry off?

I saw somebody added a cool underbody led effect by splicing off somewhere off the PCB for a simple, single LED, but he never responded on how he opened it
post #3703 of 3834
Need to take out those 3 screws

Then pry it open from here Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Thats where the clips are located on the front Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Be VERY carefull with those 2 connectors, high chance to damage them, if you dont pull up slowly the small daughter board. As you can see I did damage both of mine, instead of the gray cable used to be a small connector, and the one with the flat flex used to have a retaining clip that I lost somehow but I bent the pins a bit and they hold the flat flex in fine.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
(note the ****ty MMB click fix, had to do that untill my ebay replacement arrived lol)


And as for the LED mod, thats your USB connector leading to the PC, the red wire is the +5v line, and one of the black ones is the negative, you can hook up a led and 1k ohm resistor and it should be fine running like that withouth getting too much into it. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Edited by gta809 - 1/27/16 at 10:23am
post #3704 of 3834
I had difficulty getting used to the heavy button clicks of the Steelseries
Quote:
Originally Posted by gta809 View Post

Need to take out those 3 screws

Then pry it open from here Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Thats where the clips are located on the front Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Be VERY carefull with those 2 connectors, high chance to damage them, if you dont pull up slowly the small daughter board. As you can see I did damage both of mine, instead of the gray cable used to be a small connector, and the one with the flat flex used to have a retaining clip that I lost somehow but I bent the pins a bit and they hold the flat flex in fine.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
(note the ****ty MMB click fix, had to do that untill my ebay replacement arrived lol)


And as for the LED mod, thats your USB connector leading to the PC, the red wire is the +5v line, and one of the black ones is the negative, you can hook up a led and 1k ohm resistor and it should be fine running like that withouth getting too much into it. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Well, at least looking at your pictures, I don't feel bad about my mouse being dirty anymore and thinking I'm a dirty slob. lol
post #3705 of 3834
I dismantled it completely when i changed the buttons and cleaned it all. Those pics are from before cleaning tongue.gif
post #3706 of 3834
UPDATE for RAT7 and RAT9 under Linux

the xorg.conf is not a good choice if you change your mice
the best choice for your RAT is to place a file named 910-rat.conf in your /usr/share/X11/xorg.conf.d folder
therefore you can use the following command (change "gedit" with your text file editor ..with "pluma" for Linux Mint):

sudo gedit /usr/share/X11/xorg.conf.d/910-rat.conf

-then place the text below in that file :

Section "InputClass"
Identifier "R.A.T."
MatchProduct "R.A.T.7|R.A.T.9"
MatchDevicePath "/dev/input/event*"
Option "Buttons" "17"
Option "ButtonMapping" "1 2 3 4 5 0 0 8 9 7 6 12 0 0 0 16 17"
Option "AutoReleaseButtons" "13 14 15"
Option "ZAxisMapping" "4 5 6 7"
EndSection

-save the file, logout, login and all buttons should work including horizontal scroll wheel


Moreover - if you want to have the AIM / SNIPER button working, you need to install some small programs using your operating system software manager. So you will need to install :

xbindkeys
xinput (most systems use this program by detault)

Once xbindkeys is installed you need to place a file named .xbindkeysrc.scm on your home folder ( ~/ ) with the following content (this is adapted for RAT7 ..if you have RAT9 change 7 with 9 in your .scm file ) :

;; RAT 7 sniper on
(xbindkey '("b:12") "xinput --set-prop 'Mad Catz Mad Catz R.A.T.7 Mouse' 'Device Accel Constant Deceleration' 5")
;; RAT 7 sniper of
(xbindkey '( Release "b:12") "xinput --set-prop 'Mad Catz Mad Catz R.A.T.7 Mouse' 'Device Accel Constant Deceleration' 1")

-once this is done place an empty file named .xbindkeysrc on your home folder
-you can change also the value for Constant deceleration from 5 to 7 or 4 or whatever you like ..lower numbers mean high sensitivity big numbers mean low sensitivity. 5 should be ok for the most...

-then to be sure Xbindkeys will run every boot, run the following command from your terminal :

xbindkeys_autostart

Logout
Login

...enjoy ! .biggrin.gif
post #3707 of 3834
I'm still baffled as to how the hell I can make my hand not feel awkward using the MMO TE.
post #3708 of 3834
Quote:
Originally Posted by uaokkkkkkkk View Post

I'm still baffled as to how the hell I can make my hand not feel awkward using the MMO TE.
The regular TE isn't much better. Mad Catz designs are atrocious overall tbh. Their mice feel like prototype cutouts of how a finished product would roughly be shaped.
post #3709 of 3834


The mouse in this form weighs 66g. Remove the wing on the right? 63g.

The little "wrench" on the right came with the EVGA X10. Never knew it would useful. Even works with Corsair mice.
post #3710 of 3834
That pic reminds me of the "PTE evangelist" Above8 lol.

Also, it's a shame the RAT1 turned out to be utter garbage. Had a bit of potential, at least in physical properties.
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