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2 questions for the experts of W/C

post #1 of 5
Thread Starter 
ok, i got my stuff all together and within the week am gonna setup etc. but first i need to clarify 2 things....

1st. when i do a leak test... do i do it with all the components in place, just with out the computer on.. or do it all outside of the case and drain and refill?

2nd. i read the stickies about setting it up but im confused about filling and draining with a resivoir. do i fill it up let it run turn off then fill up again? how do i bleed..
baah help.. thanks
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post #2 of 5
bump... I have the same questions and will be getting everything in about a week.
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post #3 of 5
I read a post by byson I think it was and he mentioned putting all the components on some paper and leaving them run over night. If there is a leak and it dries up the paper will show signs of being wet. Personally I have never really done the leak testing. I run it for 5 mins or so off the CPU to see if the block has got a leak and then put it on and just monitor it for a little while. Maybe slack but if it doesn't leak in 5 mins it probably won't leak at all. This has been a little different since using peltiers as the water temps can get pretty warm in some cases. Some systems will bleed themselves, depending on the mounting and placement of the parts. If you are sure your parts are not going to leak, like your res you can always power up the pump\\system, fill up as much liquid as you can, put the lid on the res and just turn the rig upside down or on its side, that will ensure the air gets pumped through and hopefully ends up in the res where you can just add more liqiud. This of course depends on if you have screwed the parts in the case or not, if you haven't and used velcro (very good idea) then you can just move the components around, lift the pump higher than the res, blocks etc to get the air out. As always be careful when bending pipes as when some get a kink that kink will be there for ever, also the joins, make sure they are very secure.
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post #4 of 5
Thread Starter 
bump... an other ideas or suggestions?
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post #5 of 5
Sure G--the best way to leak test is to assemble everything out of the case--but come on--you don't really want to go to that much trouble--so the alternative is to carefully assemble everything like "that"s it" the way it's gonna be for the duration and then cross your fingers and power up. You could place some plastic film and a paper towel over the Vcard and any PCI cards will also be protected somewhat from a few small drips in the vent you did not tighten the tubing clamps properly.

If you have the patience for it assemble everything you canexcept do not attach the WB to the CPU yet and leave the CPU Air-cool HS on and run the loop for a good long while over top of some paper as suggested above. If you do that then you know for sure and do not enganger your components.

Take your time in the primary assembly and that should be enough. I basically just shine a really bright light into the case and watch everything intently for 15 minutes with some paper towels on hand.

When it comes to bleeding that's when plumbing your system properly really helps. Consider that air will rise and become trapped in any "U"--ideally in a loop without a resevoir you have a fill at the top of the loop from a "T" into the line between Radiator and CPU WB and sometimes it can be useful to include a drain a the lowest point of the loop from a "T" on the line between the pump and the Rad.

If you plan to frequently change or try different coolants then a safe way of draining the system without having to part the lines (which puts a strain on whatever you are tuggin on) is a good idea.

I wanted a simple clean look so I did not plumb in a drain line--I wish I had--it is almost impossible to get all the coolant out of all the bits without completely taking it all apart.

You want your pump to stay charged with coolant at all times--cavitation or air pockets can damage the pump mechanism. Do not run the pump dry. Keeping thepump low in the loop is a sure way to keep it charged with coolant. If possible have some part of the loop above the Waer Block to keep it charged as well.

Of course in a properly bled system air pockets won't be an issue...

Yes, you may have to bleed it more than once--I find that even after manipulating the radiator and case while filling to try and chase out the air I still get a fair amount out in the form of turgid tiny bubbles that eventually bleed off.

It is not necessary to have a vast amount of fluid in the loop for it to perform--just to have no air.

If you want to use a resevoir it is not necessary to use a "T" but the drain "T" might still prove useful in the event you needed to add or change a WB later and need to drain the loop.

You will discover that having a fixed radiator will make it difficult to get all the air out at first so you will probably have to run and fill and bleed a few times.
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