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post #2881 of 10771

**** no wonder it seemed warmer XD my P/P and Rad look like my dryer after a few wash loads **** and I cleaned this in January XD

     
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post #2882 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by phazer11 View Post

I never can remember how much TIM should you use less than or equal to a pea? I'm doing my cleaning a bit early in prep for contest less downtime for TC.

Think rice. You are only trying to make the connection surfaces level. I also spread mine with my finger. That came out wrong, but that is how I do it...
    
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post #2883 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by hertz9753 View Post


Think rice. You are only trying to make the connection surfaces level. I also spread mine with my finger. That came out wrong, but that is how I do it...


Thanks for the idea, so simple lol never thought to try using my finger I'll go scrub my hands of any possible dead skin now.

 

Anyways I have a new headache.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1275427/corsair-h60-i5-2500k-asus-p8p67-pro-and-haf-932-headaches

     
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post #2884 of 10771
You could drill a hole slightly behind where the PSU stops to pull the cables out, or just rear mount it like so:
Warning: Photos (Click to show)
400

The other thing you could do, is externally mount the PSU. I don't know how much of a "finished look" you want, but if you don't really care, that'll keep heat out of your case and give a bit more breathing room tongue.gif

It might also be worth asking around in the HAF 932 club: http://www.overclock.net/t/392179/the-official-cooler-master-haf-x-932-922-912-club
Edited by Diber - 6/28/12 at 3:18am
post #2885 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by phazer11 View Post


Thanks for the idea, so simple lol never thought to try using my finger I'll go scrub my hands of any possible dead skin now.

Anyways I have a new headache.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1275427/corsair-h60-i5-2500k-asus-p8p67-pro-and-haf-932-headaches

Rotate the block on the socket until it's pointed in a way that won't bend the tubes that much. Usually pointing the outlets to the front of the case is sufficient. Haven't had any issues with my friend's H70 in a 932.

Also, I've heard various places that you shouldn't spread TIM around with your finger, and instead just let the pressure of applying the heatsink do the job. About a rice grain is indeed plenty.
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post #2886 of 10771
I do a line along one side of the CPU and use a card (thicker is better- I use hotel key cards most of the time) to pull it flat. Granted, Ive never researched it at all...

off topic: Just picked up my work van! Finally have AC again after 1.5 months without it biggrin.gif

Cheers!
post #2887 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by SgtHop View Post


Rotate the block on the socket until it's pointed in a way that won't bend the tubes that much. Usually pointing the outlets to the front of the case is sufficient. Haven't had any issues with my friend's H70 in a 932.
Also, I've heard various places that you shouldn't spread TIM around with your finger, and instead just let the pressure of applying the heatsink do the job. About a rice grain is indeed plenty.

I wound up using a piece of hard plastic I used to use a while ago to pry up legos from the brick top tables, as far as the rad it's more of the motherboard causing problems than anything else. I decided to do an early cleanup and sprucing because barring circumstances I'll be participating in the Load Em Up contest.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diber View Post

I do a line along one side of the CPU and use a card (thicker is better- I use hotel key cards most of the time) to pull it flat. Granted, Ive never researched it at all...
off topic: Just picked up my work van! Finally have AC again after 1.5 months without it biggrin.gif
Cheers!

Grats, though how hot can it be up there you're in Canada right?

 

Almost forgot I updated that thread with pictures of the situation.


Edited by phazer11 - 6/28/12 at 2:27pm
     
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post #2888 of 10771
Another way you could do it I've seen is to mask out the square with masking tape, put the dab in the corner and use the card to spread it. That way, it will always be the same thickness, and any excess will be removed with the tape. It's generally used for GPU heatsinks, but I feel that it would be relevant for CPUs as well. I intend to try it next time I have to pull a heatsink.
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post #2889 of 10771
Quote:
Originally Posted by SgtHop View Post

Another way you could do it I've seen is to mask out the square with masking tape, put the dab in the corner and use the card to spread it. That way, it will always be the same thickness, and any excess will be removed with the tape. It's generally used for GPU heatsinks, but I feel that it would be relevant for CPUs as well. I intend to try it next time I have to pull a heatsink.

 

I think I might try that if I wind up having to move the rad again >v< maybe you'll have an idea as to how I should pull this off?

     
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post #2890 of 10771
I think you pretty much just have to put the PSU in the top. That case should have more than enough airflow even if the cable management isn't perfect. You also may want to try swapping the reference and custom 450s, I think the reference cooler will breathe a bit better when it's up against another card.
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