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post #14971 of 18197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buttsy View Post

Haha! Once this M6E block goes on I don't think there is much more I can upgrade, plus the wife will kill me if I don't start spending time fixing a few things around the house. You know what they say, happy wife happy life

Hahahahaha....I'm already in the dog house for letting my wife know i want to upgrade to another rad....I have told her about 3 times that i'm done adding more stuff,keep telling her its 99.9% finished....biggrin.gif
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post #14972 of 18197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamaican Reaper View Post

Hahahahaha....I'm already in the dog house for letting my wife know i want to upgrade to another rad....I have told her about 3 times that i'm done adding more stuff,keep telling her its 99.9% finished....biggrin.gif

Hahahaha! Aww Bro I feel sorry for you, it's no good being in the dog house, I'm not there quite yet but I think I should stop before I awaken the dragon! Lol
post #14973 of 18197
Buttsy, I've managed to get 4.5 stable again. I think I'm just gonna leave it there. Haha

Anyone with AMD. Why does my gpu is always at max clock even at idle? I've been researching and it seems that it's only with AMD. (I think)
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post #14974 of 18197
Quote:
Originally Posted by -SpArkLeS- View Post

Damn it, stupid phone. Okay so what I wanted to type. I'm not losing access, though what I'm using now has the drives sticking out too much and I'm not sure yet but I think my reservoir will be in the way.

Ice Reign's suggestion of having something like a NAS enclosure for your HDD's is a good idea if you don't like the way the drives stick out of your 5.25" bays. I found with the way my setup is, my case just cooks my hard drives as the warm air from the front radiator when gaming, makes my WD 2TB hit 65C which is way too hot. Front mounted monsta rad in the 600T was a bad idea. I know you're not going to be mounting your HDD's in front of your rad so you don't have to worry about it.
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post #14975 of 18197
Quote:
Originally Posted by carmal View Post

Marvelous...terbaik thumb.gifthumb.gifthumb.gifthumb.gif

Hey, can you guys go read the rules on the first page about re-posting long chains of pictures?

Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Buttsy View Post


The problem with haswell over Sandy is because of the thermal issues you can't just leave your voltage at auto, you need to set it manually or as an adaptive voltage. Auto will just keep feeding it volts until it hits its thermal limit. Pushing 4.6ghz on auto voltage can potentially draw as much as 1.8 v.

It's not quite as simple as sandy, just upping your multiplier and voltage, or leaving auto.

Turbo mode enabled from my experience helps with the idle state but can affect the stability of the oc.

Enabling Intel speed step will aid in pushing your clock speed down when idle.

I'm running a 4770K on a Sabertooth Z87, and I overclocked it the same way as my Sandy Bridge 2500K. I set it to "auto", it overclocked up to 4.2GHZ, and afterwords I increased the multiplier to 45. Both systems are running stable at 4.5 GHz, with the 4770K only at 33c when idle, and at a max of about about 85c using Prime 95 for 30 minutes and an ambient of 25c.

I don't see what all the fuss is about.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Recr3ational View Post

Buttsy, I've managed to get 4.5 stable again. I think I'm just gonna leave it there. Haha

Anyone with AMD. Why does my gpu is always at max clock even at idle? I've been researching and it seems that it's only with AMD. (I think)

I had that issue on my 6970 cards. Turned out to be driver problems. I assume you're using a fresh Windows install? That's strange because when it happened to me it was after having the drivers updated about 6 times over a year or so. I think you should try uninstalling the drivers and reinstalling them again. You can check AMDs website if you need to, they have an uninstaller there somewhere. That's what I ended up using to correct that and some other problems with my cards.
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post #14976 of 18197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mergatroid View Post



I'm running a 4770K on a Sabertooth Z87, and I overclocked it the same way as my Sandy Bridge 2500K. I set it to "auto", it overclocked up to 4.2GHZ, and afterwords I increased the multiplier to 45. Both systems are running stable at 4.5 GHz, with the 4770K only at 33c when idle, and at a max of about about 85c using Prime 95 for 30 minutes and an ambient of 25c.

I don't see what all the fuss is about.
 

 

The fuss is only to do with the thermals, if your running a custom loop its not a big issue to be too concerned about unless your an overclocker looking to really push it, but if your running an AIO or on air it can be a big issue. I don't know how much you have read on Haswell but the issue is heat. If you OC and leave your voltage at AUTO, the CPU will use as MUCH voltage as required to gain stability, AUTO lets the BIOS alternate the vcore voltage with no limits. With an OC of 4.5GHz on AUTO like yours, your CPU could be drawing 0.95v at idle, but if you have a not so great quality chip it may pull 1.55v to attain a stable OC @ 4.5 at load which is a lot of voltage and a lot of heat. A really really good chip will hit 4.8+ no worries @ 1.2 - 1.3v but not a lot of Haswell chips can do those speeds at those volts. Most require a lot of voltage to attain decent overclocks. Mine for example requires 1.19v to be stable 24/7 @ 4.2, but requires a massive jump to 1.35v @ 4.4 and then 1.45v @ 4.611.

 

I could never achieve that with an AIO because it was way to hot. It hit 100c and throttled back to stock.

 

Its not an issue with a modest overclock of 4.0 - 4.3GHz @ 1.2 - 1.3v, but if your looking for speeds above that, that's where it becomes an issue.

 

Because Haswell has big issues with yield/chip quality some people struggle to get 4.4GHz+ because it requires voltages that exceed what AIO/Air can dissipate in heat. Sandy Bridge had none of the real heat issues Haswell has.

 

The idea is all about controlling how hot it runs and how much voltage it chews. If its set to AUTO and is pushing 1.4v + to get good overclocks its gonna run hot. If it stable at 1.3 with a fully manual setting its gonna run cooler.

 

EDIT: If you played around with your vcore manually/adaptive Merg you may find your temps stay the same idle but drop under load because its not using unnecessary voltage.


Edited by Buttsy - 2/11/14 at 9:31pm
post #14977 of 18197

Quote:

 

Originally Posted by Recr3ational View Post

Buttsy, I've managed to get 4.5 stable again. I think I'm just gonna leave it there. Haha
 

 

Sounds pretty good to me dude :-) I have taken screen shots of my BIOS, I will PM them to you soon.

post #14978 of 18197
If it over-volts it enough for the best stability, and the heat isn't too high, then that's exactly what I want. I wouldn't want to back off the voltage if it's going to reduce the stability.





Edited by Mergatroid - 2/11/14 at 10:01pm
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post #14979 of 18197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mergatroid View Post

If it over-volts it enough for the best stability, and the heat isn't too high, then that's exactly what I want. I wouldn't want to back off the voltage if it's going to reduce the stability.
 

 

I think you could be missing the point. The point is taking control of the voltage. Over-volting using Auto can create spikes in voltage, causing big spikes in heat. Your CPU may only need 1.42v to be rock solid stable, but at load, Auto is occasionally feeding it spikes of 1.49v. There is no upper limit to how far it will jump. Using a user defined vcore you may find it rock solid @ 1.40v lessening heat. Just because its set to Auto doesn't mean it will stop feeding it volts and completely hover at the right vcore.

 

If that's all you require is a modest overclock with fairly good thermals that awesome :thumb: Myself I like complete control over my vcore so I can run with the best thermals/speed. OCed to 4.2 on Auto for me pushed 1.22v at max load, I reduced that to 1.19v using manual/adaptive and my OC is as rock solid as it was on Auto. Plus I got a 2c drop per core across all 4 cores.

post #14980 of 18197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Recr3ational View Post

Yo guys.
What power saving settings am I supposed to turn on for intel? I reckon that's the thing I'm missing. Cos my cpu can't be stable at 4.5 with anything below 1.35v now. I've messed around with the bios to much and messed it up.
Well for a 4.5ghz you at least don't need to turn them off C1E, C3/C6 states, EIST, CPU thermal monitor. But for anything higher than 4.5ghz i would say you should disable all of them except for PLL Overvoltage which is very important for most OC's over that frequency, at least nearing the 5ghz range. Also the PLL voltage (not overvoltage) should be between 1.700v - 1750v for high overclocks, in theory that would mean you don't have to have as high a Vcore.

LLC should also be enabled at about lvl 4-5. At lvl 5 it just keeps the Vcore as close to the specified voltage as possible under load, at lvl 4 it will try and lower it a bit, 6 or higher will pretty much give you Vboost meaning the voltage is just higher than specified. Enabling LLC in general though will make the jump in voltage from idle to load much less severe pretty much circumventing Vdroop.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buttsy View Post


The problem with haswell over Sandy is because of the thermal issues you can't just leave your voltage at auto, you need to set it manually or as an adaptive voltage. Auto will just keep feeding it volts until it hits its thermal limit. Pushing 4.6ghz on auto voltage can potentially draw as much as 1.8 v.

It's not quite as simple as sandy, just upping your multiplier and voltage, or leaving auto.

Turbo mode enabled from my experience helps with the idle state but can affect the stability of the oc.

Enabling Intel speed step will aid in pushing your clock speed down when idle.
Yes indeed leaving voltage/PLL on auto is quite bad, i can go as far as to say even on SB which i still use it's pretty bad for anything around 4.5ghz, at least in my experience.

I'm currently running my i5 2500K @ 4.7ghz at 1.39v with a max load temp of 70c in Prime95 blend mode, not too bad but i can't say i won the silicone lottery by any stretch though it's not the worst either. One thing i do know for sure is if i don't enable PLL Overvoltage at anything higher than 4.5ghz it simple wont boot up so that's a must (but it should be a must for most people really) Also tried 5ghz but i had to run it at about 1.48v which is a bit too high for my liking, anything over 1.40v is already a bit worrying, and the benefits aren't great enough for me to degrade my CPU that much for a bit of extra performance that you're really only gonna see in benchmarks.
Edited by Anonymous Inc - 2/12/14 at 2:25am
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