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[Official] Corsair Graphite Club [780T/760T/730T/600T/380T/230T] - Page 1547

post #15461 of 18196
Quote:
Originally Posted by Recr3ational View Post

Damn right son!
So its not worth it then, if you're not willling to pay the subscribtion fee?
I might not get it then if people have doubts about it.

The only thing making me hesitate is I don't have a group of friends to play with in Elder Scrolls yet. If I manage to fall in with a good group, I'll sub in a heartbeat. I just don't want to commit to a monthly sub for an MMO if I'm going to end up being a Lone Wolf solo player. That's no way to enjoy any MMO.
     
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post #15462 of 18196
Quote:
Originally Posted by NaciremaDiputs View Post

The only thing making me hesitate is I don't have a group of friends to play with in Elder Scrolls yet. If I manage to fall in with a good group, I'll sub in a heartbeat. I just don't want to commit to a monthly sub for an MMO if I'm going to end up being a Lone Wolf solo player. That's no way to enjoy any MMO.

Cough cough.

Anyway. Really enjoying arma 3 campaign. Graphics are awesome
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post #15463 of 18196
Quote:
Originally Posted by scyf3r View Post

New PSU Cover and front cover! The fan's are just temporary for positioning purposes only. Will be using bitfenix spectre-pro 140mm red fans instead.. biggrin.gif Used a dremel to cut out a hole and a couple of slots in the front acrylic panel for the nzxt sentry fan controller.. biggrin.gif

Very nice there man. Coming along really well.
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post #15464 of 18196
Lurked for a very long time and learned a lot from this thread, thought I could contribute a little.

Here's what I did for the LEDs on the door. When door is closed, all LED lite up automatically, when you remove the door, you don't have to unplug the connectors. Especially handy if your friends came over, and you don't want them to break off your wires accidentally...

Below are the pics, but If you are interested, here's how I did it.

You will need some Pogo pins first.

The paint on the door and chassis is non-conductive, but always test yours. I used the continuity test with a multimeter to make sure the door was non-conductive.

But once you drilled through the chassis, the bare metal is conductive, and you wouldn't want to short your PSU. So I used heat shrinking tubes on the Pogo pins before inserting them into the holes. Always use protection around your P...ogo pins.

I used hot glue to fix the pins in place. I didn't find any good looking metal sheets around me, but luckily I found some spare Tamiya battery pins from my old RC bag and thought why not? These are good battery connectors that can handle 60A easily and they are made to take solder. Good enough for a dozen of LEDs.

The most challenging thing is to locate where to drill. My tip is to close the window panel and mark where to drill from the other side. You can try other places, but I chose the lower right corner since that was where my previous LED wires were located and it's easier to manage from the other side. Make sure you clear the fan since the Pogo pins I used are pretty long and they will be useless if bent.

here are the pics.







Edited by yuyueyuyue - 3/3/14 at 10:42pm
Another 600T
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Another 600T
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post #15465 of 18196
Guys,
Let's say my pump blows up when I add the extra radiator. Can someone recommend me a pump/bay/res combo please? Something similar to my XSPC x2o 750.
[1] Onyx
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[1] Onyx
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[3] ProdiGize
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post #15466 of 18196
Quote:
Originally Posted by scyf3r View Post

New PSU Cover and front cover! The fan's are just temporary for positioning purposes only. Will be using bitfenix spectre-pro 140mm red fans instead.. biggrin.gif Used a dremel to cut out a hole and a couple of slots in the front acrylic panel for the nzxt sentry fan controller.. biggrin.gif
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Looking pretty damn good Scyf3r :thumb: I can't wait to see your finished build!

Quote:
Originally Posted by yuyueyuyue View Post

Lurked for a very long time and learned a lot from this thread, thought I could contribute a little.

Here's what I did for the LEDs on the door. When door is closed, all LED lite up automatically, when you remove the door, you don't have to unplug the connectors. Especially handy if your friends came over, and you don't want them to break off your wires accidentally...

Below are the pics, but If you are interested, here's how I did it.

You will need some Pogo pins first.

The paint on the door and chassis is non-conductive, but always test yours. I used the continuity test with a multimeter to make sure the door was non-conductive.

But once you drilled through the chassis, the bare metal is conductive, and you wouldn't want to short your PSU. So I used heat shrinking tubes on the Pogo pins before inserting them into the holes. Always use protection around your P...ogo pins.

I used hot glue to fix the pins in place. I didn't find any good looking metal sheets around me, but luckily I found some spare Tamiya battery pins from my old RC bag and thought why not? These are good battery connectors that can handle 60A easily and they are made to take solder. Good enough for a dozen of LEDs.

The most challenging thing is to locate where to drill. My tip is to close the window panel and mark where to drill from the other side. You can try other places, but I chose the lower right corner since that was where my previous LED wires were located and it's easier to manage from the other side. Make sure you clear the fan since the Pogo pins I used are pretty long and they will be useless if bent.

here are the pics.
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)





 

Good work man :thumb: that's a fantastic idea! no more stupid cables to unplug when taking the door off! Btw you should post some more pics of your rig! :thumbsups

post #15467 of 18196
Quote:
Originally Posted by yuyueyuyue View Post

Lurked for a very long time and learned a lot from this thread, thought I could contribute a little.

Here's what I did for the LEDs on the door. When door is closed, all LED lite up automatically, when you remove the door, you don't have to unplug the connectors. Especially handy if your friends came over, and you don't want them to break off your wires accidentally...
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Below are the pics, but If you are interested, here's how I did it.

You will need some Pogo pins first.

The paint on the door and chassis is non-conductive, but always test yours. I used the continuity test with a multimeter to make sure the door was non-conductive.

But once you drilled through the chassis, the bare metal is conductive, and you wouldn't want to short your PSU. So I used heat shrinking tubes on the Pogo pins before inserting them into the holes. Always use protection around your P...ogo pins.

I used hot glue to fix the pins in place. I didn't find any good looking metal sheets around me, but luckily I found some spare Tamiya battery pins from my old RC bag and thought why not? These are good battery connectors that can handle 60A easily and they are made to take solder. Good enough for a dozen of LEDs.

The most challenging thing is to locate where to drill. My tip is to close the window panel and mark where to drill from the other side. You can try other places, but I chose the lower right corner since that was where my previous LED wires were located and it's easier to manage from the other side. Make sure you clear the fan since the Pogo pins I used are pretty long and they will be useless if bent.

here are the pics.







That's a really smart idea! wow.. Wonder why nobody else thought of that before.. thumb.gif
post #15468 of 18196

Hey Everyone! :D

 

I was planning on doing a new smoky Acrylic side panel sometime in the next couple of weeks (using my jigsaw to add to my Guide) but decided before I do, I would have a crack at mounting 2 Corsair SP120 Performance Edition Fans on to my current one. I'm planning on adding this to my Acrylic Panel guide as well :thumbsups

 

There are quite a few pics from modding my current panel so ill add those into a spoiler box!


 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Really happy with the way it came out. Let me know what you all think :thumb:

post #15469 of 18196
I see boobies biggrin.gif.....Looks awesome buttsy, well done....
Just Add Water
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Just Add Water
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1 x EX 360 / 1 x EX 240 Radiator XSPC D5 Vario Pump with Front Cover EK D5 X-TOP CSQ - Acetal PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing Red 7/... 
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Bitspower 150 mulit z and Fittings XSPC RayStorm CPU Waterblock for Intel 11 x Gentle Typhoon AP-15 Windows 7  
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post #15470 of 18196
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamaican Reaper View Post

I see boobies biggrin.gif.....Looks awesome buttsy, well done....

 

Hahahahaha lmao! :lachen:

 

Cheers bro. Was surprised how long it took me, I set aside 3 hours to get it done, took me bout an hour and a half (bout 6 Stubbies or maybe it was 7 :headscrat) lol. I'm going to buy a couple of pieces of acrylic in a weeks time when I get home and do another one or 2, however with the new 2.0 version I'm going to mount 3x SP120s in it.:D

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