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[Official] Corsair Graphite Club [780T/760T/730T/600T/380T/230T] - Page 1559

post #15581 of 18196
Quote:
Originally Posted by roflcopter159 View Post

I would assume that it wouldn't be the pump, otherwise everything would be getting super hot. What is the CPU running at? Is that at least fine?
Exactly right, if all else is within good parameters then it has to be on the GPU2 the fault lies. Again my guess is improper pad/block placement or something with the thermal paste. But then again i'm no expert on this field at all, i mean i haven't even watercooled anything yet haha biggrin.gif
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post #15582 of 18196
I really really think it's the inlets and the outlets.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anonymous Inc View Post

Exactly right, if all else is within good parameters then it has to be on the GPU2 the fault lies. Again my guess is improper pad/block placement or something with the thermal paste. But then again i'm no expert on this field at all, i mean i haven't even watercooled anything yet haha biggrin.gif

But still dont rule it out. Cos she could of got the cpu in it properly but the gpu isn't.
Thing is thermal paste wouldnt put it up all the way to 100c
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post #15583 of 18196
Quote:
Originally Posted by Recr3ational View Post

But still dont rule it out. Cos she could of got the cpu in it properly but the gpu isn't.
Thing is thermal paste wouldnt put it up all the way to 100c

Yeah, that's true. You could see maybe a 10C difference from too much paste, but a 40C difference is huge. I would have to assume that there is something else wrong with the mounting of those GPU blocks. Perhaps something is restricting flow in the second card? Maybe it isn't on tight enough and there isn't a solid connection between the block and the GPU? Or as Rec has been saying, perhaps the inlets and outlets are wrong. However, with that, I would assume that if that was the case, both GPUs would be suffering pretty bad; correct me if I am wrong though.

Could you possibly draw arrows on the picture in paint or something so we can see which way everything is supposed to be flowing?
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post #15584 of 18196
Quote:
Originally Posted by -SpArkLeS- View Post

Hehe correct, both cards are @ 100% usage, temps for gpu 2 is 100°c goes up to 104°c, gpu1 is max around 60°c which is still high in my opinion, for watercooling. I have been thinking that i should have used the other outlet on top of the fc link bridge.

60C under 100% load is normal for higher end GPU's when playing modern games. My 680's hit around mid 50's on 100% load. It sounds like the water block and the GPU aren't getting good enough contact. It's probably just a case of loose screws but unfortunately it's the block that's pretty much inaccessible without dismantling the loop. If only it was the top one you could just check the screws with a screw driver.

Regarding the FC bridge, are you using the series or parallel one? Well at the very least you can test out your drainage system. Just make sure to open a port on your res to get the liquid out. With my first water cooling build I drained and refilled the loop so many times I got really good at it.

Your build looks good. I like the way you did your lighting. I think not adding green to it was a good call as it looks great black and white.
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post #15585 of 18196
Really even under water? My 280x doesn't get higher than 50c with a quite high over clock. Though 60c is actually quite good temp on air. I'm more worried about hers rig breaking than the temp.

I've done a a tad bit of research Sparkles.
Basically the block "might" be slightly lifted. Either by capacitors or what ever and that could cause a bit of problems. ( as you would imagine). I don't know if this is true or what. Just been reading up about some guy who had a slightly bent cap, causing an opening.
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post #15586 of 18196
Quote:
Originally Posted by Recr3ational View Post

Really even under water? My 280x doesn't get higher than 50c with a quite high over clock. Though 60c is actually quite good temp on air. I'm more worried about hers rig breaking than the temp.

I've done a a tad bit of research Sparkles.
Basically the block "might" be slightly lifted. Either by capacitors or what ever and that could cause a bit of problems. ( as you would imagine). I don't know if this is true or what. Just been reading up about some guy who had a slightly bent cap, causing an opening.

Under water my cards would hit 59C running Unigine Valley for 30 minutes and mid 40's when gaming. When idling they'd stay around 29-30C. My ambient temperature is usually around mid 20's during the winter though with the heat cranked. For me having a room temperature of low to less than 20C is just too cold. Those were my temperatures though when I was using the 600T. Unfortunately that case was like an oven. My HDD's would hit 61C which is primarily why I'm no longer using that case since the HDD cage had to sit so close to the front rad all it got was warm air when gaming. I could have put the mesh on with a fan but then that just looks ugly.

I guess come to think about it 60C is kind of high when just gaming. I think her top card was getting that hot since the loop was trying to cool a GPU hitting 100C. I don't know that's just my theory.

Edit: Yeah Recr3ational you were right. 60C is far too hot on water. I just did some benchmarking for the first time with my new setup and the highest my cards hit when running Valley was 43C. I think the reason for my high temps with the last build was low rpm fans on a high fpi slim radiator. I hope the new 600T revision has proper radiator support.
Edited by Branish - 3/8/14 at 9:52pm
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post #15587 of 18196
Quote:
Originally Posted by Branish View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Under water my cards would hit 59C running Unigine Valley for 30 minutes and mid 40's when gaming. When idling they'd stay around 29-30C. My ambient temperature is usually around mid 20's during the winter though with the heat cranked. For me having a room temperature of low to less than 20C is just too cold. Those were my temperatures though when I was using the 600T. Unfortunately that case was like an oven. My HDD's would hit 61C which is primarily why I'm no longer using that case since the HDD cage had to sit so close to the front rad all it got was warm air when gaming. I could have put the mesh on with a fan but then that just looks ugly.

I guess come to think about it 60C is kind of high when just gaming. I think her top card was getting that hot since the loop was trying to cool a GPU hitting 100C. I don't know that's just my theory.

Edit: Yeah Recr3ational you were right. 60C is far too hot on water. I just did some benchmarking for the first time with my new setup and the highest my cards hit when running Valley was 43C. I think the reason for my high temps with the last build was low rpm fans on a high fpi slim radiator. I hope the new 600T revision has proper radiator support.
If you really wanna test gpu temperatures run Furmark or a stresstest in OCCT, they put the GPU's under a unrealstic load that you wouldn't really ever experience normally. Which also makes them great for stability testing, if you GPU's can pass it you know you're golden, at least in most cases, but of course the normal real test is really just to play games. But for heat testing theres nothing better than those two programs.
Edited by Anonymous Inc - 3/8/14 at 10:39pm
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post #15588 of 18196
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mergatroid View Post

That's a pretty awesome build man. I have been thinking about CLA for a while, but I'm too much of a coward to delid my 4770k. Did you use it on both the the cooler and the chip? I know you added another piece into your loop, but could you get a feel for how much the delidding improved your temps? Also, how do you reseal the lid? Did you clean off the old glue and apply something new, or is just the pressure from the block holding it on? If you used glue, what type did you use?

I used a credit card to scratch off the black silicon. Some people tested that not only the TIM between the die and the IHS affected temp, the pressure between them was also influential. If you get rid of the black silicon, you can effectively reduce the gap between the die and the IHS, which will in turn give you better heat transfer.

To reseal it, I just used 3m double side tape. It's thin, more secure than nothing and it's temporary.

To make sure that the tape can withstand the heat instead of burning the whole building down, I "cooked" it for 6 hours under 140 C and it still looked like new, at least did not burn or turned into some brown color. So I think it will be fine around the much cooler die. I've been using the tape for 4 month since I delided my cpu and my rig is still fine. But I'm too lazy to open everything up and check it... So your mileage may vary.

my 4770k temp running P95 passed 20 minute mark dropped from hitting 100C @ 1.18V @ 4.3GHz to 70C @ 1.26V @ 4.5GHz (both cooled by H80i). That's a huge difference!




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i7 4770k De-lid w/ CLU OC-4.5GHz GA-Z87-UD5H Asus GTX780 OC DirectCU II EVGA GTX780 
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Corsair Vengeance 32GB (4x8GB) 1600MHz DDR3 Samsung 840 Evo 1TB Toshiba 5TB 3.5in 7200rpm Custom Water Cooling 
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Windows 10 LG 34UM95 Corsiar K95 RGB Corsiar HX1000i 
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Corsair 600T Logitech G502 Homemade Wool Pad Sennheiser HD600 
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Sony XBA4IP Asus Xonar Essence Stx Schiit Valhalla II 
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i5 4570 Asrock Z87E ITX GTX 770 Corsiar vengeance 2x4gb Blue 
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Logitech G25 GTR Sim Frame 
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6700k GA-Z170X-Gaming 3 GTX 1080 FE Corsiar 
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Samsung 840EVO HGST 5TB NH15D Windows 10 
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LG 34UM95 Corsiar K95 Corsair HX1000i Phanteks Eclipse P400 
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Logitech G502 
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Another 600T
(19 items)
 
 
Cut to the Chase
(13 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 4770k De-lid w/ CLU OC-4.5GHz GA-Z87-UD5H Asus GTX780 OC DirectCU II EVGA GTX780 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Corsair Vengeance 32GB (4x8GB) 1600MHz DDR3 Samsung 840 Evo 1TB Toshiba 5TB 3.5in 7200rpm Custom Water Cooling 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 10 LG 34UM95 Corsiar K95 RGB Corsiar HX1000i 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Corsair 600T Logitech G502 Homemade Wool Pad Sennheiser HD600 
AudioAudioAudio
Sony XBA4IP Asus Xonar Essence Stx Schiit Valhalla II 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 4570 Asrock Z87E ITX GTX 770 Corsiar vengeance 2x4gb Blue 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Seagate Hybrid EVGA MINI ITX Windows 8.1 34" Dynex TV 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech Solar Hadron Stock PSU EVGA Hadron Air Logitech Touch pad 
OtherOther
Logitech G25 GTR Sim Frame 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
6700k GA-Z170X-Gaming 3 GTX 1080 FE Corsiar 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 840EVO HGST 5TB NH15D Windows 10 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
LG 34UM95 Corsiar K95 Corsair HX1000i Phanteks Eclipse P400 
Mouse
Logitech G502 
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post #15589 of 18196
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anonymous Inc View Post

If you really wanna test gpu temperatures run Furmark or a stresstest in OCCT, they put the GPU's under a unrealstic load that you wouldn't really ever experience normally. Which also makes them great for stability testing, if you GPU's can pass it you know you're golden, at least in most cases, but of course the normal real test is really just to play games. But for heat testing theres nothing better than those two programs.

I haven't used Furmark since I had my 6950's installed. My 680's don't really overclock very well so I haven't really bothered in quite some time. I'm just using the EVGA factory overclock. I do use OCCT though but mainly for CPU overclock stability tests. Good suggestions though nonetheless.
The Fortress
(17 items)
 
Black Mamba
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The Black Pearl
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i3 4130 Gigabyte B85M-D3H Sapphire HD6950 1GB 8 GB of Corsair Vengeance lp  
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Samsung 840 Evo 120GB Intel Stock Cooler Windows 8.1 64 Bit LG 24EN43VS-B 
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Logitech K350 Seasonic G-Series 550W  Silverstone PS07B Logitech M510 
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Corsair MM200 Compact Harmon Kardon 2.1 Audio 
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The Fortress
(17 items)
 
Black Mamba
(14 items)
 
The Black Pearl
(25 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i3 4130 Gigabyte B85M-D3H Sapphire HD6950 1GB 8 GB of Corsair Vengeance lp  
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung 840 Evo 120GB Intel Stock Cooler Windows 8.1 64 Bit LG 24EN43VS-B 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech K350 Seasonic G-Series 550W  Silverstone PS07B Logitech M510 
Mouse PadAudio
Corsair MM200 Compact Harmon Kardon 2.1 Audio 
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post #15590 of 18196
Thanks for all the help guys!

Just put the pc on and opened all the temp stuff, here's a screenshot. I do have to say that I didn't get anything on temp 2 yesterday when I opened up GPU Temp and afterburner, I only got a read out when I opened up a game.
I connected the pump on my motherboard as cpu fan. I think it's on stand 2 or 3. Should I put it higher?

The bridge is parallel.



So I opened up Metro, even in the menu I got a reading of up to 104°c on gpu1 this time, gpu2 doesn't show ingame. I minimized the game and the readouts where different.



Maybe I should do a reinstall of drivers? Windows?

I can't drain the loop today, would be for next week.
Here's the loop with arrows tongue.gif, I think maybe I need to switch the outlet tube from the parallel bridge.
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