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[Official] Corsair Graphite Club [780T/760T/730T/600T/380T/230T] - Page 421

post #4201 of 16892
Hi, i have some free time, so here is my new fan controller.

i decided to use only 2 channels, but "stronger" transistors. i have 6x120mm on first channel and 2x200mm and 1x120mm fan on second channel without any problems. regulated voltage is from ~5V to ~11.5V. my scheme is exactly like corsair stock controller's one, but i used only 2 transistors/channels and capacitor (it helps to start fans on lower voltage). i also used little heatsinks on my transistors, because they are heating a little. but it is also possible to use more transistors (3,4,5,...), create more channels and use less fans on each channel to avoid heating and cooling at all. i just grabbed first available parts at store and tried that. i also had to move my DVD drive to the bottom, because heatsinks of fan controller are too big to hide there. maybe i will leave only potentiometer up there and hide rest of fan controller somewhere else in the case. i paid around 3€ for whole controller and i still have many parts left smile.gif
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post #4202 of 16892
Quote:
Originally Posted by welly321;15617558 
Ok so lately the whine of the front intake fan has really been bothering me. Has anyone tried installing a filter? I did this on my side intake on my cm 690 and it helped the noise immensely.

Try spacing it away from the grill with some washers. The fan sitting directly up against the metal grill is what generates the whine. Hope that helps a bit.
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post #4203 of 16892
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mergatroid;15609778 
That really depends on if you're using a decent fan controller or not. If you're using the built in fan controller or plugging the fan into the PSU, you may want a slower quieter fan.

If you're using a good fan controller or if your stock case controller is working good, pick up a fan that can move something in the neighborhood of 100 CFM (plus or minus about 20 CFM I guess). You don't have to worry about static pressure because you're not using it on a rad, so whatever has the best airflow (CFM) and lowest noise level for the price would be your best bet. There are a lot of great case fans to chose from.

100 CFM for the rear exaust? I thought high cfm was for to suck air in.
Thanks for all the replies btw.
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post #4204 of 16892
Update.. no pics but..

Total fan count in my case has gone up. 6x 120mm fans, 2x 80mm fans, 1x 200m fan, 2x 140mm fans, 2x40mm fans.

At 100% it sounds like a jet fighter with an afterburner. biggrin.gif
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post #4205 of 16892
Quote:
Originally Posted by vrdubin6;15618467 
Try spacing it away from the grill with some washers. The fan sitting directly up against the metal grill is what generates the whine. Hope that helps a bit.

Thanks . That definitely makes sense. That is probably why putting the filter in my cm690 stopped the whine. It created space between the fan and the grill. I'll post back with the results.
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post #4206 of 16892
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc1355;15520039 
So i made a few changes!
Installed another Gelid for exaust and 2 uv cathodes cause the fans are uv reactive and its looking way better like this...

Made a psu cover with a corsair logo underneath the carbon vinyl and another cover for the hard disks with the Asus logo on it..Also i mounted my ssd on the drive bay!!

Ps: Darkcyde thanks for the tip on the ssd!!!


what cathodes do you have in the bottom. they look pretty bright. i got some horrible ones and want something better likt these!





any anyone on here w/ h100, what do you think im on the verge of getting it
Edited by protzman - 11/8/11 at 5:31pm
post #4207 of 16892
H100 is great..

PICT00641.JPG

Fits with 4 fans. 2 fans are good enough too for a 5Ghz OC on 2500k.

Temps: 21'C low, 57'C high
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post #4208 of 16892
Quote:
Originally Posted by gspin2k1;15613050 
Just curious, where do you guys put your manufacturer stickers? or do you toss your stickers?

I don't bother using them any more. I used to use them when I thought my case needed something, but this case is so nice I just don't put that stuff on it any more.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Calibos;15618009 
Has anyone taken the 4x white LED's off the stock 200mm fan and gotten them to work. I took mine off and transferred them to my NZXT 166cfm 200mm. Didn't work when soldered to the 4 pairs of led solder terminals on the NZXTs' PCB. Even when I thought I had it sussed because on the LED version of the lower CFM brothers of this fan the LED's have a switch. I bridged the solder terminals that the switch would normally connect to. Still no go.

So to eliminate anything to do with supply voltage on the NZXT fan or in case I had blown them already, I took the LEDS of my other stock corsair 200mm after testing to make sure they were working. I wired them in series and connected them to the 12v lines of a molex. Now this fresh set of working white LED's don't light up either. Baffled???

Mind if I ask you some dumb questions?

are you sure you have the polarity of the LEDs correct? They will only light up in one direction. If you connect them direct to 12V forward biased with no resistor, the LEDs may blow. You need a series resistor. Check here:

http://www.hebeiltd.com.cn/?p=zz.led.resistor.calculator

Usually, on round LEDs, there is a flat edge on one side. That flat edge should be the cathode. The cathode should go toward ground, and the anode (through a resistor) should go to the +12 or +5 volts (I'd use +12). In the pictures on at the link I gave you, the flat line on the diode symbol, at the point, is the cathode.

I have not looked at my NZXT fan circuit board yet, I just ordered the LEDs on Monday (got them for $1.05 ea CDN) so I likely won't know until sometime next week.

Can you take a picture of the NZXT board and post it for me? I'd look at mine, but it's a lot of work to get that fan out now since I added two intermediate fans in the case. I have to remove them to remove the drive cage so I can get the fan out.
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post #4209 of 16892
Quote:
Originally Posted by PathOfTheRighteousMan;15625921 
H100 is great..

PICT00641.JPG

Fits with 4 fans. 2 fans are good enough too for a 5Ghz OC on 2500k.

Temps: 21'C low, 57'C high

Did you want everyone to discover that Vengence Ram trick by themselves? You didn't even point it out in your post. Share the knowledge brotha'. The Deise holding out on us again? biggrin.gif The brainwave only hit me independently on Monday biggrin.gif Was just about to post it myself biggrin.gif Up till then I had my H100 rad at an angle and with about 1/3 of the rad obscured. With the ram HS mod, while not being able to line it up with the 120mm fan holes because now the VR heatsink is the limiting factor, at least now there is only about 1cm of the rad not under the pull fans. I can't see that hurting efficiency too much. I'm running the 2 stock fans in push and I just fitted two Ap15's in the roof for pull.

6324778852_bc197f2671_z.jpg

6324025477_74a0b94973_z.jpg

6324744102_3ee61112a1_z.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mergatroid;15625963 
I don't bother using them any more. I used to use them when I thought my case needed something, but this case is so nice I just don't put that stuff on it any more.



Mind if I ask you some dumb questions?

are you sure you have the polarity of the LEDs correct? They will only light up in one direction. If you connect them direct to 12V forward biased with no resistor, the LEDs may blow. You need a series resistor. Check here:

http://www.hebeiltd.com.cn/?p=zz.led.resistor.calculator

Usually, on round LEDs, there is a flat edge on one side. That flat edge should be the cathode. The cathode should go toward ground, and the anode (through a resistor) should go to the +12 or +5 volts (I'd use +12). In the pictures on at the link I gave you, the flat line on the diode symbol, at the point, is the cathode.

I have not looked at my NZXT fan circuit board yet, I just ordered the LEDs on Monday (got them for $1.05 ea CDN) so I likely won't know until sometime next week.

Can you take a picture of the NZXT board and post it for me? I'd look at mine, but it's a lot of work to get that fan out now since I added two intermediate fans in the case. I have to remove them to remove the drive cage so I can get the fan out.

'By your command'

6325214027_0a1a4683a9_z.jpg

Black, red and yellow left side 12 o'clock are the 3 pin fan wires. I had to extend the led wires and the are solder to the + & - terminals around the pcb. Black is - and yellow is positive. To discern + & - of the leds I noted that the silver coloured wires where connected to the neg terminals and the copper coloured wires went to positive and thus I extended the silver with black and the copper with yellow.

I figured I wouldn't need a resistor because there were 4 white LEDs and thus in series they must be near 12v. Aren't white leds about 3v?

The lower cfm brother led version of this fan does not come in a white version so maybe there is a resistor under the plastic for lower voltage colour leds but then again why didn't the other working leds not work powered in series straight from a molex. Black and yellow on a molex is the 12v isn't it?

In case its usefull info, those solder points without wires in the 12 o'clock pcb position is where the led on/off switch on the brother fans connect. I thought I had cracked it when I discovered a photo showing this, However, even when I bridged these points the leds stayed off.

Got my Windowed sidepanel and String LED's the other day too.

6323970655_5797008e48_z.jpg

6323968445_3985e88f48_z.jpg

NZXT sleeved 24pin

6324743652_03d81e229c_z.jpg

Tidied up some cables

6323989379_f4dd5c5e66_z.jpg

Decided not to put the corsair fan back on the case as rear exhaust after having it on the H100 as an emergency measure after I fitted the AP15's. I feel its just robbing the H100 exhaust and with no fan on the back the H100 is probably pulling air in from the back which is going to be hot from the PCI exhaust. So I blocked it up. Adding up the CFM from the 200mm and 120mm front intakes I get 213 cfm and exhaust is about 160cfm. ie. Positive pressure. Its only when under heavy load that the H100 exhaust would kick into higher gear and increase exhaust CFM to about 10 or 15cfm higer than intake. ie 225 cfm

6324734196_1ca5c107cb_z.jpg

Then I sat back and dimmed the lights biggrin.gif

6324021781_b5f4ea6be5_z.jpg

6324025471_b2710b300f_z.jpg
Edited by Calibos - 11/8/11 at 10:09pm
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post #4210 of 16892
Forgot to mention. Another fan output on the 600T fan controller went pop today. Noticed my 200mm not spinning. Have moved it to a fan header on the modo. Could the non working LED's on the NZXT have caused the 600T fan output to die?
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i5 4570S MSI H87i Intel HD 4600 8gb Kingston Hyper X 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
120gb Samsung 840 SSD  500gb Hitachi2.5" 5200 RPM Stock Intel i5 Cooler Windows 7 Ultimate 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
LG IPS234 Logitech K800 90W integrated PSU Antec ISK-110 
MouseAudioOther
Logitech Performance MX Darkfield Integrated Creative i-Trigue 2.1 SubSat 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
2500K ASrock z68 Extreme 4 2x MSI GTX580 Twin Frozr II in SLI 8Gb Corsair Vengence 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
2 TB - WD20EARX 128gb Crucial M4 SSD Samsung Blu-Ray Corsair H100 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit Dell 24" 2405 Saitek Eclipse Corsair HX1050 
CaseMouseAudio
Corsair Graphite 600T Logitech M500 Gaming Mouse Integrated 
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Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Computer Cases › [Official] Corsair Graphite Club [780T/760T/730T/600T/380T/230T]