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[Official] Corsair Graphite Club [780T/760T/730T/600T/380T/230T] - Page 435

post #4341 of 18196
Quote:
@portzman didn't get the question tongue.gif

i mean that acrylic side panel, how much did it cost ya?
i suppose you got it made right?


and those asus like blockers or something? those are sweet did you make them?

just a sick build in general!
post #4342 of 18196
I'm up late playing with my new camera...

338

338
 
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post #4343 of 18196
in general: Has anyone removed the front dust filters on the removable panel and or the 5.25" bays?
cause the mine, especially on the panel on the front are like saggy or something, so it always looks like there is dust even when there inst!
post #4344 of 18196
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwhite56 View Post

Hi, Doc1355, I'm starting a build in a 600T, could you PLEASE tell me how you did those ASUS and Corsair panels and any advice on cable management, and where I can get some of the supplies. That would be so incredibly helpful, thanks
Well i used plastic sheets,carbon vinyl and imagination tongue.gif
Τhe Corsair logo is under the carbon vinyl so it looks embossed!
The Asus logo is just on the cover,its painted white and it looks bright blue cause it reacts to the uv light..
Quote:
Originally Posted by MaCk-AtTaCk View Post

DOC1355
that is serioulsy the sweetest case iv ever seen.......w o w....
by the way I pm you with some questions!
+1 rep for a sick build!thumb.gif
Thanks bud!
You have a reply on that pm wink.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by protzman View Post

i mean that acrylic side panel, how much did it cost ya?
i suppose you got it made right?
and those asus like blockers or something? those are sweet did you make them?
just a sick build in general!
Ι made it myself but i think mnpctech sells those for ~100 dollars or something..
I also made the covers.. smile.gif
post #4345 of 18196
Thanks Doc1355, thats literally the coolest thing I'v seen done on a 600T, it's simple, classy and looks great. Just got my 600T today so i can finally start building, I will definitely try something like that, Don't worry, i won't copy you exactly thumb.gif
post #4346 of 18196
Quote:
Originally Posted by protzman View Post

in general: Has anyone removed the front dust filters on the removable panel and or the 5.25" bays?
cause the mine, especially on the panel on the front are like saggy or something, so it always looks like there is dust even when there inst!

Just take them apart by bending the tabs on the metal mesh, stretch the filter material a little better and reinstall the mesh. It's actually pretty easy to do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwhite56 View Post

Thanks Doc1355, thats literally the coolest thing I'v seen done on a 600T, it's simple, classy and looks great. Just got my 600T today so i can finally start building, I will definitely try something like that, Don't worry, i won't copy you exactly thumb.gif

You should go look at the builds from the beginning of the thread. There are all sorts of amazing things people have done with this case.


I got my system running. Fan LEDs installed and tested. The funny thing is that now that I've installed the fan and hooked it up (I connected the LEDs to a fan controller so I could adjust them) they have decided not to work. I'll have to look into why they stopped working tomorrow.

Also, I feel a little gypped. I clicked a button in the BIOS for my new main board and it basically overclocked it for me. The i5 2500k is a 3.3GHz CPU, but it set the "turbo" mode to 4.2GHz. I fiddled with it a bit and got it up to 4.5GHz but it just doesn't feel the same clicking a button and having it do the work for you.

The absolute worst thing about this is that for some reason my Windows 7 key stopped working. I got the popup complaining that the key doesn't match the hardware and it asked me to reenter the key. Once I entered it, it claimed it's not a legitimate key. I reentered it several times. Then I called the toll-free number and entered the huge number they give you and again they're trying to claim this is not a legitimate copy. I mean really, it's enough to make me go pirate their cruddy software. You pay $200 for their %#$@%!!@# software and they cause you nothing but headaches for actually having the nerve to pay them money. Needless to say I'm pretty pi$$ed. I'm going to have to contact them to get this fixed. MS really bothers me the way they think that of everything you purchase to build your PC, their software should be replaced if you dare to make too many hardware changes.

Here's some pictures of the mess:

20111126172411.jpg

20111126172420.jpg

Because the memory is mounted higher on this board than on my old one, I couldn't use push/pull on the H100 without blocking some of the rad. I didn't want to do that. I also didn't want to use the H100 as intake because of dust. This left me with pull/exhaust. Luckily, because of the front hole I cut in the top I was able to feed the pump in from the top and mount the rad outside, allowing me to put the fans on the inside as push/exhaust. I actually gave up the stock fans and used some 1900 RPM Scythe PWM Slipstream fans instead. Why? Because I wanted PWM. I have connected them to the CPU header using a splitter again, so the system is controlling them. I couldn't do this using the 3-pin fans Corsair provides (again, same thing happened with the H70). I would prefer the better static pressure of the Corsair stock fans but I want the main board to control them. Too bad. I also removed the fan I had mounted on the hard drive cage. That made three less fans so I no longer needed two fan controllers. Since my dual bay controller had a dead channel (I emailed Aero Cool to get the correct number to replace the bad FET but they never answered) I decided to stick with the single bay controller.

Here's the H100 rad in the top:

20111127020816.jpg

20111127020832.jpg

20111127020849.jpg

20111127020907.jpg

I'll do a power-on pic when I figure out why the new LEDs in the 200mm NZXT fan are not lighting up.

If anyone knows a way to fix this damn Windows key problem, I'm all ears.
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Nukeyork
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post #4347 of 18196
Mergatroid,

Can you post a pic of the top of your case which shows the hole you cut? I want to purchase an H100 as well, but don't want to pull air into the case. Your solution is probably something I would do.

Thanks!
post #4348 of 18196
If it wasn't for the fact that I was using a socket 775 main board with the RAM mounted lower, allowing me to use push/pull if I moved the rad forward one 120mm fan length then I wouldn't have cut the hole. It was worth it for push/pull, but I wouldn't do it personally just to get push over pull.

Someone did a cooling test (Sorry I don't have the link, but CeaserNYC does) comparing push vs pull. They found that at high RPM push is a little better, and at low RPM pull is a little better.

If I didn't already have this hole cut in my case from my previous build I would be using exhaust/pull right now.

I do have a picture or two that may help you out though.

This is a picture showing where I cut the hole (in both the plastic and the metal). This picture is when I had an H70 installed up top, so just pretend the other fans are not there.

h100ppmountingmod.jpg

Here is a pucture showing how the H100 was mounted after the mod:

p8090003.jpg

Don't forget that you will have to cut the plastic framing under the top mesh cover otherwise it won't fit back on.
I really loved that mod, and I was really upset when I couldn't find any socket 1155 ASUS or Gigabyte boards with the RAM mounted a little lower on the board. It was literally only 1/2" of space I needed to get the mount working. Either a 1/2" taller 600T case, or a 1/2" lower mounted DIMM. The interior fan would actually hit both the DIMM and the socket. I considered cutting a notch in the fan housing but it would have been too deep.

The good news is that you shouldn't need as large a hole. Just make sure that when you mount the rad the hoses don't rub against your cut. Also, I got all eight screws installed but I did it by moving the entire rad toward the front of the case by one screw position, and then modding the back of the mesh to allow me to install the two rearmost screws. You'll also have to mod the front a little so you can get the front two screws through the mesh. A buddy of mine is going to bring some material he uses for backing poster boards that I can use to cover the hole (lucky it's black).

Here it is installed. Quite the large size hole I have to cover up now.

20111127202008.jpg
Edited by Mergatroid - 11/27/11 at 6:36pm
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Nukeyork
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post #4349 of 18196
Wow, thanks man! Based on what you've said about the temps being comparable, I think I'll try the pull and see how the temps stack up before I decide to make any holes.
post #4350 of 18196
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raedyn View Post

Wow, thanks man! Based on what you've said about the temps being comparable, I think I'll try the pull and see how the temps stack up before I decide to make any holes.

You dont have to cut the case to have a push or pull config guys...
Edited by Doc1355 - 11/28/11 at 2:30am
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