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[Official] Corsair Graphite Club [780T/760T/730T/600T/380T/230T] - Page 609

post #6081 of 18196
Cases looking good +REP to DARKCYDE this thread never gets old!!!! cheers.gif
post #6082 of 18196
Quote:
Originally Posted by -SpArkLeS- View Post

I'm so excited ordered the case and all the stuff that goes in it yesterday. Hopefully I'll be getting it by the end of the week. I do have a question though.

I'll be getting i5 3570k with H80 cooling on a msi Z77a-GD65
HD 7870 in crossfire. Are the standard fans going to cool the hardware enough or do I need to change the fans?

Thanks

Depends on what you're preference is, I'd get rid of the stock fans and replace all 120's with gt ap-14/15's or noise blockers.

For the video cards if they're the ones that push hot air out the back you should be okay however I'd still mount a 120 in front of the cards to allow air to cool them as well
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post #6083 of 18196
Gonna pick up a white Corsair Graphite 600T tomorrow, replacing my ugly and noisy HAF 922.
Also bringing a SSD home and a custom watercooling loop next week. Should be a nice upgrade thumb.gif
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post #6084 of 18196
whats the best replacement for the front 200mm intake fan? Im looking for something with white LED's and quieter than the stock fan and also better CFM
Edited by Darylrese - 4/29/12 at 3:28pm
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post #6085 of 18196
Quote:
Originally Posted by rck1984 View Post

Gonna pick up a white Corsair Graphite 600T tomorrow, replacing my ugly and noisy HAF 922.
Also bringing a SSD home and a custom watercooling loop next week. Should be a nice upgrade thumb.gif

What ssd? biggrin.gif
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post #6086 of 18196
Quote:
Originally Posted by beefcrinkle View Post

Im finishg up a build and thinking about adding a h100 to it. But i would like to do push pull. Has any one mounted it on the inside with slim fans on the push and oem fans on the pull (witch would be under the top mesh). if a slim line is about half the thickness i might not run into any clearance issues with the ram slots but just not sure how well they work.

any input would be great!

I agree, don't go put of your way for push/pull on the H100. It has a very slim rad and the difference will only be a couple of degrees c at the most. Also, don't waste your money on those slim fans. They're completely useless on a rad.

The difference between push and pull will be minimum as well, depending on the RPMs of the fans. You can google push vs pull, but from what I've seen the difference is fairly minor. This does depend on the fan you're using, and some people testing have said that they got slightly different results depending on the RPM the fans were operating at (I believe the test showed better results from pull at high RPM and better results from push at lower RPM) - but that particular study was using 30mm fans.

If I had room in my case, I would use push/pull just for the hell of it. However, if I had a lot of modding to do for push/pull, considering everything I've learned over the last year, I don't think I would bother now. I was using push/pull when I had a socket 775 motherboard, and it worked well but unfortunately I didn't bother testing push/pull vs just push or pull in the 600T case.

As for the H100 itself, I never have gotten the noise some people complain about when mounting the fans in the fan compartment up top. However, when I installed my i5 motherboard, I changed my H100 setup so the rad is in the top and the fans inside the main case. The fans on my video cards are easily WAY noisier than the H100 fans were. Now I'm using Scythe 1900 RPM PWM fans and they work well and are a little less noisy than the stock fans, but not much. I never experienced any noise from the H100 pump other than the occasional rattle here and there.

There are lots of tests and reviews on the 'net showing the H100 performing as well as the best air coolers. So, it really depends on what type of cooler you prefer. Personally, I much prefer the look of the small cooling block/pump with the rad up top, and I never did like having a huge chunk of metal hanging off the motherboard/cpu socket. Also, if noise is a consideration, you can always pickup some Yate Loons or Scythe GT AP-15s. As I mentioned, my video cards (and my 200mm 166 CFM NZXT front intake fan) make more noise than the H100 does.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darylrese View Post

Just tried my H100 as intake and its knocked about 5c off my load temps. Also the annoying high pitched noise and fan noise has gone and i can run my AP15's at full speed and the noise level is much much better! biggrin.gif Just need to work out the airflow in my case now...

If any of you can help me with that. check out this thread http://www.overclock.net/t/1250024/help-with-600t-airflow

How is your GPU temp now? Usually the choice between intake and exhaust is warmer CPU or warmer GPU. Also, depending on your environment, you may end up having to clean out your rad more often due to dust buildup. Using my rad as exhaust, I have never found the rad required anything but very minor cleaning so far. Maybe you should check around for those 600T dust filters that are available.
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post #6087 of 18196
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darylrese View Post

whats the best replacement for the front 200mm intake fan? Im looking for something with white LED's and quieter than the stock fan and also better CFM

Bitfenix 200mm Spectre Pro
 
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post #6088 of 18196
Quote:
Originally Posted by rctrucker View Post

Bitfenix 200mm Spectre Pro

i'll second that. I am really happy with mine. I have some pics in my sig rig's picture folder.
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post #6089 of 18196
Quote:
Originally Posted by Killermod1 View Post

Well many thanks to you as well my friend! biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Killermod1 View Post

I did mention I love your case window did I?biggrin.gif

You are very welcome! and thank you!
Quote:
Originally Posted by autoxspeed7 View Post

ok i have to ask do you have a write up on how you did your case window that this is awesome. I think it is what the case should of came with.
thanks man

Thanks man! I think I wrote up a description in a pm somewhere lemme look for it.
post #6090 of 18196
Here is a few copy and pastes of some of the building information for the side panel I made:
Quote:
The one I have made took me a combined 6 hours, because I sucked at the techniques. I actually had to get my dad's help (seems to be a lot easier with 2 people)
I think I could probably get that down to 3-4 hours work pretty easily.
The materials could make it not worth while if you are on a budget.

The parts I used:
MNPCtech.com's U-Channel 1/8" Rubber Moulding
Scotch 3M 1040 Clear 2-sided tape (from Amazon)
Plexiglas was 1/8" from Lowes (about $20 for 600t size) - was cut from a very large sheet, because that was the only size sheet that was 1/8" thick (the perfect thickness)

I used a Jig Saw with the 22 rated blade, and a scribe blade to do the cutting and breaking.

To be completely honest, it wasn't that bad! I think if you wanted to save a few bucks you could easily make one yourself
As far as the scribe blade goes ($3 at lowes) the key to using it is to get a very strong straight edge. I used this thing my dad had, it was like a VERY thick ruler but about 18" long and about 1/4" thick. Clamp that straight edge down to the plexiglas, so that it is very secure. (keep the plastic wrap on the acrylic until after it is totally cut) Now on to the fun part - take the scribe tool and VERY gently begin going down the edge of the straight edge. You MUST start incredibly soft and get a little bit harder each time. Little strands of the plexiglas will start to peel off. The reason for starting so gently is because if you are not incredibly careful and just go hard the first time, there is a very good chance the scribe will get off the line u want and it will be near to impossible to recover your break line. Once you can do a full pass without any strands of plastic coming out of the cut your making, then you know it is ready to break. The next step is to undo the straight edge clamp, and position your cut line directly on the edge of something sturdy like the counter. Once you match the cut line up with the edge of the counter, slam your fist down on the overhang and it will break crisply off and you will have a nice break! Hopefully all of that made sense!

I personally didn't find a use for the dremel tool in this project. Just a jigsaw, plexiglass, rubber molding, and the special tape.

I should mention that Lowes doesn't sell exactly the $20 sheet. To be more clear, they had 1 very large sheet that was the right thickness and was about $55-60. From that, they cut me about a third of it off, thus the $20 per sheet. However they made me buy the whole sheet :/

Again, feel free to ask me any other questions!
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