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How important is voltage consistency/accuracy? - Page 5

post #41 of 62
Thread Starter 
Yes it ran all tests in 10 minutes the first time.

2nd time however I had to stop it cause one of the cores hit 85 on test #5 (about 5 minutes into it)

Seems it will clear a 10 minute test just not a 20 minute one... too bad my mobo had 85 as max setting because the way it tapers off at the end I'm sure I could run 20-30 minutes or more without hitting 86-87C... I think I will just disable the thermal shutdown feature altogether, I mean Real Temps said I have 15 degrees to TJmax and I think the i5 has internal safety things to underclock itself when it hits 5 degrees to TJmax.
post #42 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by joe7dust View Post
Yes it ran all tests in 10 minutes the first time.

2nd time however I had to stop it cause one of the cores hit 85 on test #5 (about 5 minutes into it)
What is test #5? There's no test #5 in Prime95. Help?

Quote:
Originally Posted by joe7dust View Post
Seems it will clear a 10 minute test just not a 20 minute one... too bad my mobo had 85 as max setting because the way it tapers off at the end I'm sure I could run 20-30 minutes or more without hitting 86-87C... I think I will just disable the thermal shutdown feature altogether, I mean Real Temps said I have 15 degrees to TJmax and I think the i5 has internal safety things to underclock itself when it hits 5 degrees to TJmax.
The only reason I recommended a 10-minute Small FFTs test is to determine maximum temperatures. But for stability, that would need to be roughly 12 hours.
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post #43 of 62
Thread Starter 
If you watch the bottom it shows what test # you are on. It is just part of what happens after you select Small FFTs and hit OK.

10 minutes does not determine maximum temps. I only hit 83-84 the first time around, 2nd time around it hit 85 about half way thru. Is there a logging or graph feature on Real Temps or Everest? I want to run this overnight and see what the max temp was. Bios thermal shutdown is disable now but judging from the temps I've seen I doubt it will hit 90 overnight.
post #44 of 62
arg ppl should warn you
1st off WATCH TEMPS. i dont like to go over 80 deg . 81 .
Do linx cpu stress, it stress cpu more, do like 20 runs @ max memory and problem size.
2nd Please fill out your user system , if you dont know some pc components CPUZ mite help you like bios versions,ram, ect...
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post #45 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by joe7dust View Post
If you watch the bottom it shows what test # you are on. It is just part of what happens after you select Small FFTs and hit OK.

10 minutes does not determine maximum temps. I only hit 83-84 the first time around, 2nd time around it hit 85 about half way thru. Is there a logging or graph feature on Real Temps or Everest? I want to run this overnight and see what the max temp was. Bios thermal shutdown is disable now but judging from the temps I've seen I doubt it will hit 90 overnight.
It does determine it, and that's why I recommend it. The temperatures level off after 5-10 minutes.

Real Temp always shows the highest temperature reached during the entire time it is open. It's closer to the bottom of Real Temp's window.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GfhTattoo View Post
arg ppl should warn you
1st off WATCH TEMPS. i dont like to go over 80 deg . 81 .
Do linx cpu stress, it stress cpu more, do like 20 runs @ max memory and problem size.
2nd Please fill out your user system , if you dont know some pc components CPUZ mite help you like bios versions,ram, ect...
There's nothing to worry about right now concerning the temperature because the overclock isn't that big and the voltage isn't that high. Plus, it isn't reaching the Tj. Max. Not only that, but I've already said that aftermarket cooling is basically required for overclocking. Additionally, I've already said that these temperatures are much higher than they should be for this overclock with this voltage while using the stock cooling.

Besides: I'm the only one helping him, so "other people" really means me here. So that's why I'm responding like this.

Let's be patient and take this one step at a time, ok? There's never a need to rush.

Finally: don't recommend LinX to somebody who already has high temperatures like this with a core voltage of 1.19V and a small overclock. He is getting roughly 85°C already with the Small FFTs test. LinX would cause it to reach the Tj. Max and therefore the entire system would just turn off. Yeah. That would piss anyone off.

Edit: And just because you don't like to allow your CPU to exceed 80°C, it doesn't mean that it's unsafe to do so, especially with 1.18V and a very tiny overclock (3.4GHz if I recall correctly).
Edited by TwoCables - 9/29/10 at 12:59am
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i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
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It's a computer!
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
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Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
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post #46 of 62
Thread Starter 
Its at 24% OC from 2.8Ghz stock. (3.46) This is the exact value of max Turbo Boost on this CPU according to Intel, hence why I chose it. Turbo Boost is not even supported by my mobo nor would I use it if it was. So basically I'm running full Turbo 24/7... I like that.

thanks for all the help TwoCables, we accomplish in an hour or 2 what a typical thread would take days maybe weeks. You were a great help and this will be a launchpad for my future overclocking questions should I choose to 'crank-it-up-to-tha-gigawatts'

BTW in terms of real-world performance my recent CPU upgrade put my FPS from 15 to over 100 in WoW in a congested city. Before I only hit 60+ when there weren't tons of other characters around me in the zone.

I was using what I thought to be a decent quad (phenom 9750) but as you can see it's ****.

Also as far as the unusually high temps this can probably be attributed to my $60 motherboard. The RAM is almost touching the CPU heatsink, its a micro ATX. My video card is only 1-2 inches away on the other side making a nice 'sandwich' for the CPU heatsink. If I installed a system fan and aimed it down over the CPU i'd probably get much better temps. Right now the system fan is vaguely blowing across and above the CPU with little effect due to case being open.
Edited by joe7dust - 9/29/10 at 1:40am
post #47 of 62
You're welcome, but I am still concerned about the temperatures. 1.18V should not generate this much heat, even with this overclock. At least, that's what I believe. It could be way different with the i5 760: this overclock (which is relatively small) may actually generate a ton of heat and may be way too much for the stock cooling.

It just doesn't feel finished.
It's a computer!
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
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Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
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post #48 of 62
Thread Starter 
Considering the i5 750 is identical expect for being 2.67 instead of 2.8 you can pretty much consider my setup to be a 30% OC. Its just the 760 come factory OCd 5%.

Do you think I should manually set the voltage to 1.0V or something to lower heat? I have no idea if that affects performance but if not and its stable it might be nice to lower the e-bill and extend component life.
post #49 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by joe7dust View Post
Considering the i5 750 is identical expect for being 2.67 instead of 2.8 you can pretty much consider my setup to be a 30% OC. Its just the 760 come factory OCd 5%.

Do you think I should manually set the voltage to 1.0V or something to lower heat? I have no idea if that affects performance but if not and its stable it might be nice to lower the e-bill and extend component life.
To be honest, I recommend going back to 100% stock until you can get better air cooling. And while you're at stock, let's see what the temperatures are too.
It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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Reply
It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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post #50 of 62
Thread Starter 
I will if I have any stability issues in SC2 at Ultra settings. I'm happy with my system how it is right now. I'll run the real temps over night with FFT and post my results. I might not be sleeping tonight, so don't wait up. ;P

My idle temps were like 35-40C before OC IIRC

What are you using for your sig? It said something about a mistake you made earlier, and now it says where a dollar sign is supposed to go lol.
Edited by joe7dust - 9/29/10 at 3:11am
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