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post #10161 of 16282
Quote:
Originally Posted by s1m0n View Post

How good is Fractals support ? Are they sending replacement parts world-wide ?
My XL R2 come with a broken front panel and local shop advised me to contact Fractal Design directly.

They're very good. I have had loads of spares sent out to me.
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post #10162 of 16282
Quote:
Originally Posted by Abula View Post

This is practically the conclusion you can draw from the SPCR First 140 mm Fan Roundup: Noctua, Phanteks, Xigmatek, but the Phantek 140s came better and so in the Second 140 mm Fan Roundup: Antec, bequiet!, Corsair, Scythe the antec 140s came as the winners over the P14, i had a chance to play with one on a NH-D14 and its a great fan, but personally i just move on to PWM fans all around, and noctuas NF-A14 and NF-A15 PWM simply have the best range of control in the market for 140s, they might not be as pleasing on sonic tone as the P14, the phanteks or antec, but all of those are 3pin, and i would have to mod so much to get the same settings that i have including going into a Asus or search for a one that will work with Speedfan..... and to me not worth it when MSI and AsRock have such a good pure BIOS PWM fan control.

Thanks for that link, so it's not just my imagination, the P14s do in fact have different acoustic characteristics. I'm more inclined that ever to do a full P14 load out on my Define R4.

Re pwm, afaik the Asrock has at most one pwm chassis header, rest are 3 pin. I personally like to have chassis fans on separate headers for independent control and for mixing up fans of different specs. So I don't do the doyll method of daisy chaining off a pwm header. I have found, for example, that the side fan has to be lower rpm than the fronts and bottom, or else it interferes with airflow. I also like the front intakes to spin higher to push past the hdd cages.

Also, 3 pin fan control on my Asus Z87 Pro is excellent. Lowest I can go on the 3 pin Noctuas is about 800rpm, and at that speed they are practically silent. I think MSI uses the same 4 pin voltage control header system for their chassis headers. Asrocks is believe has 3 pin chassis headers other than the one pwm header.

I do use pwm cpu cooler fans. I'm using TY147s for now but I want to put the A15 Pwms there as soon as I can get some appropriate clips, I can't get the D14 stock or Megahalems clips to work with those.

Another advantage of Noctua fans - they draw very little power, you can put several fans on one header. Some fans are very high amperage, like the NZXT FXs at 0.56 amps, Swiftech Helix at 0.45, etc.
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post #10163 of 16282
Quote:
Originally Posted by taem View Post

Thanks for that link, so it's not just my imagination, the P14s do in fact have different acoustic characteristics. I'm more inclined that ever to do a full P14 load out on my Define R4.
Np, glad to help. I do recommend you read them fully, as SPCR uses the P14 as their reference fan, so you will get a lot of comments between all the fans they tested vs the P14. If i were to go with 140mm 3pin fans i would go with Antec True Quiet 140s if i didnt needed high rpms, specially for the price they are almost half of nocutas P14, according to SPCR they have best tone, including the P14. I didn't go with them out of wanting pure pwm bios fan control, but i had stayed with Asus i would have go with them, but too many things i didn't like on Asus that i moved on and change to BIOS PWM fan control.
Quote:
Originally Posted by taem View Post

Re pwm, afaik the Asrock has at most one pwm chassis header, rest are 3 pin.
Not sure if all, but even AsRock B85 are coming with two true PWM fan headers (Asus is only 1), check the following thread for more info, Quiet gaming setup.
Quote:
Originally Posted by taem View Post

I personally like to have chassis fans on separate headers for independent control and for mixing up fans of different specs. So I don't do the doyll method of daisy chaining off a pwm header. I have found, for example, that the side fan has to be lower rpm than the fronts and bottom, or else it interferes with airflow. I also like the front intakes to spin higher to push past the hdd cages.
So do I, in my own personal testing, the CPU heatsink fan has a much higher impact than a chassis fan, so i do like to have them separated, MSI (and AsRock) offer two true PWM fan headers, in my setup, i have CPU_FAN1 to the TY150, and the CPU_FAN2 controls all 3 chassis fans, that are also PWM, ala Doyll style with a 4pin PWM splitter (Swiftech 8), I chose 3 in out of having such a restrictive front on the R4, so i can guarantee positive pressure like this, but each to its own, that's just the way i like it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by taem View Post

I have found, for example, that the side fan has to be lower rpm than the fronts and bottom, or else it interferes with airflow. I also like the front intakes to spin higher to push past the hdd cages.
I cant say much here as i dont use side vents, i prefer to leave the moduvent on so less spots for noise to get out, i only used the ones that were open already. On the hdd cages i cant say much either as i dont use them, i took them out to have less restrictive airflow and less turbulence on the fans.
Quote:
Originally Posted by taem View Post

Also, 3 pin fan control on my Asus Z87 Pro is excellent. Lowest I can go on the 3 pin Noctuas is about 800rpm, and at that speed they are practically silent. I think MSI uses the same 4 pin voltage control header system for their chassis headers. Asrocks is believe has 3 pin chassis headers other than the one pwm header.
PWM fans like Noctua NF-A15 PWM and NF-A14 PWM allow for much wider range of operation, you can drop them around 200rpms (as long as you are running them on a true PWM header), this is what steer me toward PWM fans, and specially toward noctua and their really great range of operation.

Now on Asus.... it depends on the user, i still recommend them as i do believe FanXpert2 is by far the best software fan control, hell i still kept my Asus Maximus VI Gene just to test fans, its simply the best that i know for that. But not all is perfect, Asus does have 3 bad things that made me move on from them,

1) Temp
Idk who or how they measure it, but the temp on Asus AI SUITE doesn't match anything at all, according to Asus representative JJ, its a complex algorithm that uses multiple sensors to simulate a more real CPU temperature, that sound great no.... but in reality is not, the temps dont match any software out there, specially probes that most of us use to monitor the CPU to not overdue the overclocking, hey forget overclocking just even to setup the fans... if the temps isnt accurate or at least the way we use to measure it, then its worthless. The biggest problem is that its not linear, for example a user could adjust to it by delta, but its lower on idle and higher on load than for example realtemp or coretemp or hwmonitor. Now for a user that has a big end cooler and doesnt overclock much, and maybe doesnt even monitor their temps or dont care if the number is accurate this shouldn't be an issue. There are multiple posts on ASUS ROG forums about this, but their mods and representatives chose to ignore them, here is one example, Hero Temperature Sensor difference and Fan Xpert 2

2) AI Suite III
A totally unneeded amount of bloatware and beta software, Asus even had to create a cleaner for it as into how bad the installs and how in enters the registry on windows, I have friends that even with the cleaner they couldn't uninstall it, they had to reformat to upgrade to the newest version. There is no need to bind FanXpert2 to it. Its such a good software that allows so much control, its a big asset of Asus over their competitors, enough to have it as stand alone software, no need to mix it with a ton of things that most of us don't need.

3) Asus lies
Asus have been marketing their motherboards with all their headers as PWM headers, this is not true, they have only 1 and the rest are voltage controlled, this is nothing to rage about it, as most manufacturers have only 1 true pwm header (MSI and AsRock do have two and some intel motherboards). Now the problem is that many believe the marketing buying all PWM fans and FanXpert2 is not good handling a 4pin PWM fan on a 4pin fake header (aka a voltage controlled 3pin). Depending on the fan this could be a big issue or not, PWM fans are not design to be used below 12V, in the best scenario you will not get the full range of the fan (the fan drop to 300rpm but on voltage only 500rpm), but in the worst scenario the fans become unstable, fanXpert2 reads the operational range wrong and operates the fans into voltages that fans stop, you might be taxing you PC and the fan could be stopped and you not knowing..... this is simply unacceptable, and all because they are not upfront with their customers, fanXpert2 is wonderful if you chose the correct fans for each header, but can be harmful if you don't.


Quote:
Originally Posted by taem View Post

I do use pwm cpu cooler fans. I'm using TY147s for now but I want to put the A15 Pwms there as soon as I can get some appropriate clips, I can't get the D14 stock or Megahalems clips to work with those.
To what i tested, the TY147 and NF-A15 PWM are very similar, both are 140mm fans with 120mm holes, the frame is very similar aside from the rubber incerts on the sides on the noctua. I was able to mount, without any issue, a NF-A15 PWM on HR02 using the included fan clips that are meant for the TY140/147, i leave you a picture of it,


Quote:
Originally Posted by taem View Post

Another advantage of Noctua fans - they draw very little power, you can put several fans on one header. Some fans are very high amperage, like the NZXT FXs at 0.56 amps, Swiftech Helix at 0.45, etc.
I do agree that noctua fans are more efficient than a lot of whats in the market, but i try not to put more than two on each header. Using PWM fans and PWM fan splitter that has a molex connector to draw the 12V from the PSU is the safest and in my experience works really well.
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post #10164 of 16282
Quote:
Originally Posted by Abula View Post

PWM fans like Noctua NF-A15 PWM and NF-A14 PWM allow for much wider range of operation, you can drop them around 200rpms (as long as you are running them on a true PWM header), this is what steer me toward PWM fans, and specially toward noctua and their really great range of operation.

Yeah. But what I found is that the minimum rpm allowed by Asus's voltage controlled chassis headers is sufficiently low that you go below the audible threshold. I don't need to go down to 200-300rpm, I only need to get to like 600rpm. And Fan Xpert is actually capable of taking a fan really low, though at fixed rpms rather than temp controlled ranges:


Quote:
1) Temp
Idk who or how they measure it, but the temp on Asus AI SUITE doesn't match anything at all, according to Asus representative JJ, its a complex algorithm that uses multiple sensors to simulate a more real CPU temperature, that sound great no.... but in reality is not, the temps dont match any software out there, specially probes that most of us use to monitor the CPU to not overdue the overclocking, hey forget overclocking just even to setup the fans... if the temps isnt accurate or at least the way we use to measure it, then its worthless. The biggest problem is that its not linear, for example a user could adjust to it by delta, but its lower on idle and higher on load than for example realtemp or coretemp or hwmonitor. Now for a user that has a big end cooler and doesnt overclock much, and maybe doesnt even monitor their temps or dont care if the number is accurate this shouldn't be an issue.

I heard about this, that Asus monitors can be off by as much as 10 degrees, but for me the temps reported by AI Suite III matches what I'm getting on HWInfo and Aida64. Wasn't this more of an AI Suite II issue?
Quote:
2) AI Suite III
A totally unneeded amount of bloatware and beta software, Asus even had to create a cleaner for it as into how bad the installs and how in enters the registry on windows, I have friends that even with the cleaner they couldn't uninstall it, they had to reformat to upgrade to the newest version. There is no need to bind FanXpert2 to it. Its such a good software that allows so much control, its a big asset of Asus over their competitors, enough to have it as stand alone software, no need to mix it with a ton of things that most of us don't need.

I'm actually a big fan of AI Suite III. Fan Xpert 2 of course. But USB Boost improves my transfer rates by a whopping 15-20%, consistently. I like Wi Fi Go with my phone, it's easier than Samsung Kies or dropbox or whatever. I even like 4 Way Optimization, I just tried that out, it does raise voltages past what you can get manually but if you don't want to spend hours tweaking, it's a one click path to a good overclock. I got 4.6 @ 1.25v manually after hours and hours, AI Suite III got me 4.6 @ 1.275v in one mouse click. Not bad. I should have just done it that way from the start and saved myself the time. All in all I really do like this software. I have no experience with other board makers' offerings though.
Quote:
3) Asus lies
Asus have been marketing their motherboards with all their headers as PWM headers, this is not true, they have only 1 and the rest are voltage controlled, this is nothing to rage about it, as most manufacturers have only 1 true pwm header (MSI and AsRock do have two and some intel motherboards). Now the problem is that many believe the marketing buying all PWM fans and FanXpert2 is not good handling a 4pin PWM fan on a 4pin fake header (aka a voltage controlled 3pin). Depending on the fan this could be a big issue or not, PWM fans are not design to be used below 12V, in the best scenario you will not get the full range of the fan (the fan drop to 300rpm but on voltage only 500rpm), but in the worst scenario the fans become unstable, fanXpert2 reads the operational range wrong and operates the fans into voltages that fans stop, you might be taxing you PC and the fan could be stopped and you not knowing..... this is simply unacceptable, and all because they are not upfront with their customers, fanXpert2 is wonderful if you chose the correct fans for each header, but can be harmful if you don't.

Asus actually explains why they do it this way:

Usually, the hardware solutions used by motherboard vendors can control the connected fans in one way only, they don’t have the flexibility to control the header in both ways. So it’s worse for the end-user if the header the fan is connected to controls it in PWM mode only. While this is acceptable for 4-pin fans, if a 3-pin fan is connected to such a header, it will run at full speed all the time without any form of RPM control. On the flip-side, 4-pin fans can be controlled if they are connected to a fan header that can control in voltage mode (DC) only. It won’t be PWM duty cycle control, but at least the fans won’t run at full speed all the time. http://pcdiy.asus.com/2013/07/z87-pro-comprehensive-feature-overview/

As to pwm fans getting hurt by low voltages, I don't think that's the case with Noctua fans. After all they ship with low noise adapters which reduce voltages. (Isn't that how the LNA cables work?) Also, Asus chassis headers have a +5v on the 4th pin where the pwm signal would ordinarily be, it's not strictly speaking a 3 pin voltage control. I don't fully understand how this works but I know it's different from a 3 pin.

[quote[To what i tested, the TY147 and NF-A15 PWM are very similar, both are 140mm fans with 120mm holes, the frame is very similar aside from the rubber incerts on the sides on the noctua. I was able to mount, without any issue, a NF-A15 PWM on HR02 using the included fan clips that are meant for the TY140/147, i leave you a picture of it,[/quote]

Oh so you removed the little anti vibration pads? What TY 140 clips are you talking about? Megahalems clips? Or the ones from Silver Arrow? I'm going to email Noctua and see if they have clips that will mount the A15 PWM to a D14. I imagine they must.
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post #10165 of 16282
Hi lads! First post here and I'm super excited about it. I've been putting off joining OC.net till I had my mods completed but my perspex order got pushed back and I'm impatient so here goes;

This is my Fractal Design Define R4. I initially bought the R2 several years back and loved it so much I moved my build into a nicer home - the R4.
After subscribing to SingularityComputer's YouTube channel and stalking this thread, modding took it's hold on my mind.
Being a recently finished student (Meaning I'm broke) and unemployed at the moment I took the time to start modding my PC. I might not have the money to make my computer a powerful monster of a machine or water cool it, but I certainly have enough funds to buy a Dremel, start modding and make it look pretty!

There are a few little things I need to do before I'd consider the case mods complete:
I'm awaiting my side window panel which is a 3mm dark grey tint perspex. I'll be double sided taping it to the inside of the side panel. I don't want rivets or bolts breaking up the clean lines.
The triple fan mount in the images was a test cut from scrap acrylic to make sure everything fit - I'll be getting that cut out of a black acrylic soon.
The front door (Which has been sliced open, as seen in the pictures) will be getting a new 4.5mm 560 perspex (dark grey tint) panel put on it. I'll be replicating the original Define R4 front door, but it'll be made of dark perspex so that the fans should be sort of visible behind it.

Aaaaaaaand if I manage to scrap together some additional funds there is some other stuff I'll be doing:
3x 120mm blue CM Jetflo fans for the front fan mount. 3 LED fans through the dark grey perspex door should look badass. Being a bit broke I might ask some of the local PC shops if they want to sponsor my build. =3
A blue Prolimatech Megahalems - this one is a bit of a pipe dream though. You can only get the regular steel ones here in NZ, and the only accessible one I can find is to order it from France via eBay which will cost nearly $180 NZD inc shipping...
Watercooling - if I manage to scrap together like $500-600 NZD i'll be water cooling my build instead of the Megahalems. Probably EKWB stuff, and I'll be making use of my UV CCFLs and using UV reactive coolant.
A modular PSU - stashing the cables for my current PSU behind the mobo is a nightmare.

After that's all done and dusted I can finally sort out my cable management, and reattach that UV CCFL that is hanging in the picture to the roof.

tl;dr: I'm poor. Here's my half-done build. Feel free to sponsor me with parts or work. =)




Edited by Seffyr - 12/8/13 at 4:44pm
post #10166 of 16282
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seffyr View Post

Hi lads! First post here and I'm super excited about it. I've been putting off joining OC.net till I had my mods completed but my perspex order got pushed back and I'm impatient so here goes;

This is my Fractal Design Define R4. I initially bought the R2 several years back and loved it so much I moved my build into a nicer home - the R4.
After subscribing to SingularityComputer's YouTube channel and stalking this thread, modding took it's hold on my mind.
Being a recently finished student (Meaning I'm broke) and unemployed at the moment I took the time to start modding my PC. I might not have the money to make my computer a powerful monster of a machine or water cool it, but I certainly have enough funds to buy a Dremel, start modding and make it look pretty!

There are a few little things I need to do before I'd consider the case mods complete:
I'm awaiting my side window panel which is a 3mm dark grey tint perspex. I'll be double sided taping it to the inside of the side panel. I don't want rivets or bolts breaking up the clean lines.
The triple fan mount in the images was a test cut from scrap acrylic to make sure everything fit - I'll be getting that cut out of a black acrylic soon.
The front door (Which has been sliced open, as seen in the pictures) will be getting a new 4.5mm 560 perspex (dark grey tint) panel put on it. I'll be replicating the original Define R4 front door, but it'll be made of dark perspex so that the fans should be sort of visible behind it.

Aaaaaaaand if I manage to scrap together some additional funds there is some other stuff I'll be doing:
3x 120mm blue CM Jetflo fans for the front fan mount. 3 LED fans through the dark grey perspex door should look badass. Being a bit broke I might ask some of the local PC shops if they want to sponsor my build. =3
A blue Prolimatech Megahalems - this one is a bit of a pipe dream though. You can only get the regular steel ones here in NZ, and the only accessible one I can find is to order it from France via eBay which will cost nearly $180 NZD inc shipping...
Watercooling - if I manage to scrap together like $500-600 NZD i'll be water cooling my build instead of the Megahalems. Probably EKWB stuff, and I'll be making use of my UV CCFLs and using UV reactive coolant.
A modular PSU - stashing the cables for my current PSU behind the mobo is a nightmare.

After that's all done and dusted I can finally sort out my cable management, and reattach that UV CCFL that is hanging in the picture to the roof.

tl;dr: I'm poor. Here's my half-done build. Feel free to sponsor me with parts or work. =)




Welcome to OCN

Looks good

Just one question that Cooler Master GX PSU is that the bronze rated version or the old one?

Does it say bronze on the side?
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post #10167 of 16282
Quote:
Originally Posted by shilka View Post

Welcome to OCN

Looks good

Just one question that Cooler Master GX PSU is that the bronze rated version or the old one?

Does it say bronze on the side?

It's the Bronze rated one. My first PC build ever. I had a bit of help and am progressively learning more, but PSUs are something that still elude me. Why do you ask? Poor choice of PSU?
post #10168 of 16282
Quote:
Originally Posted by taem View Post

Yeah. But what I found is that the minimum rpm allowed by Asus's voltage controlled chassis headers is sufficiently low that you go below the audible threshold. I don't need to go down to 200-300rpm, I only need to get to like 600rpm. And Fan Xpert is actually capable of taking a fan really low, though at fixed rpms rather than temp controlled ranges:
I guess we all have different liking to what we consider quiet enough, and we all different hearing conditions as well as different ambient noises, for me 600rpm is too noticeable, while for most might not, either way MSI Bios Fan Control + Noctua fans = a range of operation between 200 to 1500, its up to you to set it up how you like it, there is no loss for using Bios fan control over FanXpert2.
Quote:
Originally Posted by taem View Post

I heard about this, that Asus monitors can be off by as much as 10 degrees, but for me the temps reported by AI Suite III matches what I'm getting on HWInfo and Aida64. Wasn't this more of an AI Suite II issue?
I did try HWinfo and had the same temps as HWmonitor on the cores, never really tried Aida64 but ill give a shot next weeked just for fun. And about bieng an issue of AI SUITE II, no its present on my AI SUITE III, as well as many others that had reported this on the ROG Forums, hey maybe its ROG thing and the standard motherboards are fine, who knows..... Here is a Prime95 on stock clocks on my GENE VI, where you can see the difference in temps,



Personally i would love the temps to be like AI Suite reports, hey 44C on load on 4770K sounds amazing, and the graph that fanXpert2 draw seems fine the problem is that fanXpert2 believes the CPU is that temp and its not ramping the fans, the cores are already at 70C+ while the 44C is reported on AI suite III. I moved on to MSI motherboard and the temps im getting are very similar with same ambient temps, personally i would love to be wrong and that my i7 is runnign at 44C on load, but i just fear that im going to burn it with how AI Suite reads/displays the cpu temp. Would be interesting if you could run HWInfo paralel to AI suite and let prime95 run for 30mins and screenshot it, maybe HWmonitor, Realtemp and CoreTemp are wrong in both Asus and MSI motherboards.
Quote:
Originally Posted by taem View Post

I'm actually a big fan of AI Suite III. Fan Xpert 2 of course. But USB Boost improves my transfer rates by a whopping 15-20%, consistently. I like Wi Fi Go with my phone, it's easier than Samsung Kies or dropbox or whatever. I even like 4 Way Optimization, I just tried that out, it does raise voltages past what you can get manually but if you don't want to spend hours tweaking, it's a one click path to a good overclock. I got 4.6 @ 1.25v manually after hours and hours, AI Suite III got me 4.6 @ 1.275v in one mouse click. Not bad. I should have just done it that way from the start and saved myself the time. All in all I really do like this software. I have no experience with other board makers' offerings though.
I guess we all look for different things on our setups, i like the more minimalistic setup on software than having to load extra things that i don't use. But i do agree into AI Suite III and FanXpert2 making a lot simpler for users that don't want to mess with tweaking and setting up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by taem View Post

As to pwm fans getting hurt by low voltages, I don't think that's the case with Noctua fans. After all they ship with low noise adapters which reduce voltages. (Isn't that how the LNA cables work?)
All i can tell you that my Noctua NF-A14 PWM and a Prolimatech Ultra slim Vortex 140 PWM stopped being ran on CHA_FAN2 header, while satandard 3pin fans never stoped, the fans are not meant to be ran like that in their internal design. Yes the LNA will lower the voltage, but not to the proportion that FanXpert2 does, maybe it matter the amount maybe it doesn't, i really don't know, what i do know is that the fans stopped multiple times out of fanXpert2 not able to establish the minimum RPMS that the PWM could run on Voltage controlled header. Weather this happens with all PWM fans idk, but it did happen with what i tested.
Quote:
Originally Posted by taem View Post

Also, Asus chassis headers have a +5v on the 4th pin where the pwm signal would ordinarily be, it's not strictly speaking a 3 pin voltage control. I don't fully understand how this works but I know it's different from a 3 pin.
It would be much simpler for asus to implement what they did on the CPU_FAN on all headers, which you can make it voltage controlled (3pin) by simply entering the bios and swapping the Q-Fan from Auto to advanced. Asus knows how to do it right, they simply didn't.
Quote:
Originally Posted by taem View Post

Oh so you removed the little anti vibration pads?
No, maybe you are confusing the NF-A14 with the NF-A15, similar fans but the frame is different.
Quote:
Originally Posted by taem View Post

What TY 140 clips are you talking about? Megahalems clips? Or the ones from Silver Arrow?
Its not about the clips, i show mine simply to illustrate that the NF-A15 PWM can be used as the TY147 can. What i was trying to say is that the fans are so similar that if you can mount the TY147, you should be able to mount the NF-A15 PWM, with what you currently own, the frame is almost identical, the fan holes are in the same positions, the only thing that could give you issues is the sides as the Noctua has some extra rubber on them, but my guess is that it shouldn't bother you.

Just to close this, and to clear it a little better, i still recommend asus for people that don't want to bother tweaking and testing. If asus releases motherboards with less bios fan restrictions more in line with MSI and AsRock, and releases all PWM headers as they falsely advertise, then i would come back again, i still think manufacture good all around motherboards, just atm is not the right one for me.
GameMi
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ServeMi
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MiniMi
(9 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Xeon E3-1230 SUPERMICRO MBD-X9SCM-F-O Matrox G200eW Kingston 4GB ECC DDR3 1333 
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8x Hitachi 5K3000 2TB + 6x Samsung HD154UI 1.5TB Thermalright AXP-140 WHSv1 Antec CP-850 
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Antec 1200 + 4x Cooler Master 4 in 3 2x Intel SASUC8I 
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Intel Core i3-2100T Intel DH61DLB3 Intel HD2000 Kingston HyperX LoVo 4GB DDR1333 
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Hitachi 5K500B Thermalright HR02 Windows 7 HP picoPSU 150XT 
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Lian Li Q08 
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GameMi
(14 items)
 
ServeMi
(15 items)
 
MiniMi
(9 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Xeon E3-1230 SUPERMICRO MBD-X9SCM-F-O Matrox G200eW Kingston 4GB ECC DDR3 1333 
Hard DriveCoolingOSPower
8x Hitachi 5K3000 2TB + 6x Samsung HD154UI 1.5TB Thermalright AXP-140 WHSv1 Antec CP-850 
CaseOther
Antec 1200 + 4x Cooler Master 4 in 3 2x Intel SASUC8I 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i3-2100T Intel DH61DLB3 Intel HD2000 Kingston HyperX LoVo 4GB DDR1333 
Hard DriveCoolingOSPower
Hitachi 5K500B Thermalright HR02 Windows 7 HP picoPSU 150XT 
Case
Lian Li Q08 
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post #10169 of 16282
So I removed the bottom 5.25 bay in my Midi (again) just because it looks so much better and my temps dropped a couple of degrees. Now I got my HDD in the 5.25 bays using the included 3.5 to 5.25 adapter, but the noise is driving me crazy from the vibration. I was thinking, maybe I should buy one of these to stop it?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11757/hdc-77/Akasa_HDD_Cooler_Anti-Vibration_Suspension_Set_AK-HD03-BK.html?tl=g43c12s852

I was also looking at this, but I don't know if it'd be neccessary as I only have one HDD and SSD, and I have no clue if that tiny 80mm fan would be a vacuum:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10060/cpa-294/Evercool_ARMOR_Dual_525_Drive_Bay_to_Triple_35_HDD_Cooling_Box_HD-AR-R-BK.html?tl=g43c12s852

Any thoughts?
post #10170 of 16282
Quote:
Originally Posted by VulgarDisplay88 View Post

They're very good. I have had loads of spares sent out to me.

I'm asking, because it's been few days after I replayed to Fractals support providing them with my case serial and proof of purchase and got no answer yet!
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