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[Official] Fractal Design Case Club - Page 1138

post #11371 of 16139
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sp33d Junki3 View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
5095_10_fractal_design_adjust_108_fan_controller_review_full.jpg
This I would call a controller, it seems to have an MCU and other electronic parts that actually control the fans. Not that it's smart or anything, again only a simple controller, this time the outputs are switched based on position of the sliders via tiny mosfets.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
This on the other hand is a fan switch and nothing more.
Cables excluded wouldn't cost more than $0.99 on eBay.
post #11372 of 16139
gotta love semantics

- an 18 wheeler, diesel powered freight hauler : a truck or (articulated) lorry
- an escalade with 30" low profile wheel & tires and golden door handles : a pimp mobile
- an oversized, underpowered people carrier : a soccer-mum / school run mobile
- an average sized & powered 4 door , 5 seater car: a family saloon
- a low, wide +500bhp Ford GT-40 : a supercar
- a tiny, 3-wheeled, 50cc wind-in-the-back assisted transport thing: an abomination

yet, they are all called automobiles

biggrin.gif
post #11373 of 16139
Anyone know´s if the H110 fit´s on Define R3 Top?

I dont care if the 120mm exaust has to be moved to the outside.

thumb.gif
post #11374 of 16139
The Pixel Slayer
(22 items)
 
HTPC
(14 items)
 
NAStrodamus
(14 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5 4460 Asus Z97 Deluxe Intel On board  Kingston Hyper X 8GB (4GBx2) 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
Samsung 850 EVO 250GB Pioneer BluRay Drive Noctua NH-L9i Noctua NF-S12A X3 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Win 10 Samsung 55" LED HDTV Rii 2.4GHz Wireless Mini EVGA G2 550W 
CaseMouse
Silverstone GD09 Rii 2.4GHz Wireless Mini 
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The Pixel Slayer
(22 items)
 
HTPC
(14 items)
 
NAStrodamus
(14 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5 4460 Asus Z97 Deluxe Intel On board  Kingston Hyper X 8GB (4GBx2) 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
Samsung 850 EVO 250GB Pioneer BluRay Drive Noctua NH-L9i Noctua NF-S12A X3 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Win 10 Samsung 55" LED HDTV Rii 2.4GHz Wireless Mini EVGA G2 550W 
CaseMouse
Silverstone GD09 Rii 2.4GHz Wireless Mini 
  hide details  
Reply
post #11375 of 16139
Since no one had any comments on how to cut out the fan grills I went to it my way.
Cutting with dremel sucks so did not attempt that craziness.
Took a few wire cutters and found that the sharpest yet one of the smallest work very well and until they lose a bit of the sharpness they cut the grill like butter.

Cut the rear grill and both bottom grills. Not going to remove the top grills since I don't use them and their mesh is also larger than the rest, meaning the cuts are bigger and tougher to do.

I have kept one row on the bottom grill so I can easily mount 140mm fans in various positions which I plan to do.

Thinking of cutting the 120mm attachments on the rear grill, if I my dremel will cut this kind of metal reasonably.
Otherwise will proceed to file the edges and paint them.






You can see the cutters used, they are not big, had the tip gone since I've tried to cut a too thick wire with them before I bet so I used them for the grill cutting. They still work fine but the super sharp edge is gone, still cut the grills better than the other relatively new cutters I have.
It's all about the sharpness.

My PSU is going to be long so I will use a different support on the bottom of it. The default supports are going to touch the PSU fan grill I think anyway.
PSU extends all the way to the 140mm fan mounts and disallows a 140mm bottom fan to be mounted in original position.

You can also see the marks A and B for the bottom cage mounts! FD marked it but never made any pictures of R4 with the bottom cage rotated.

Leaving the rear top grill since there is no fan and it does give structural integrity.
Edited by JackCY - 7/31/14 at 7:27am
post #11376 of 16139
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackCY View Post

Since no one had any comments on how to cut out the fan grills I went to it my way.
Cutting with dremel sucks so did not attempt that craziness.
Took a few wire cutters and found that the sharpest yet one of the smallest work very well and until they lose a bit of the sharpness they cut the grill like butter.

Cut the rear grill and both bottom grills. Not going to remove the top grills since I don't use them and their mesh is also larger than the rest, meaning the cuts are bigger and tougher to do.

I have kept one row on the bottom grill so I can easily mount 140mm fans in various positions which I plan to do.

Thinking of cutting the 120mm attachments on the rear grill, if I my dremel will cut this kind of metal reasonably.
Otherwise will proceed to file the edges and paint them. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



You can see the cutters used, they are not big, had the tip gone since I've tried to cut a too thick wire with them before I bet so I used them for the grill cutting. They still work fine but the super sharp edge is gone, still cut the grills better than the other relatively new cutters I have.
It's all about the sharpness.

My PSU is going to be long so I will use a different support on the bottom of it. The default supports are going to touch the PSU fan grill I think anyway.
PSU extends all the way to the 140mm fan mounts and disallows a 140mm bottom fan to be mounted in original position.

You can also see the marks A and B for the bottom cage mounts! FD marked it but never made any pictures of R4 with the bottom cage rotated.

Leaving the rear top grill since there is no fan and it does give structural integrity.

well done thumb.gif

Now, to get some structural strength back (and to protect your fingers), just add ordinairy fan grills (black, not chrome). They have almost no restriction and almost no impact on fan "noise"

post #11377 of 16139
I might add one on the back, have a source for black and chrome ones cheap, hope they are painted/blackened well.
Have to look for a half round file, it would make the job much easier. Not sure if I have one big one.

Snipping it off is probably the easiest, it's not really sharp but I like to finish things well. It could really run like this as it is.

There is one spot on the PSU grill that needs a bit of cut and then bend it to one side then the other and it pops off, it's the PSU feet.
On the bottom grill there are two thicker cuts on the front, either do the same but I took bigger cutters and cut it with them, then finished tight with the small ones.
No other problematic spots.

The integrity is fine, I just don't see any advantage of cutting the rear top grill as well.
post #11378 of 16139
or you can "hide" the sharp edges with some channel molding or grommet edging smile.gif
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=130_132_1014&products_id=3801
post #11379 of 16139
Are your temps any better with the mesh gone
post #11380 of 16139
Wanted to ask some design help from you guys. I have arc mini r2: http://1drv.ms/1o0KZfo (not the best pic, little bit too dark to get the point maybe)

I have one red strip behind the motherboard, but when the side panel is on it´s little bit too dark in there. First idea was white led in the case, so the red one still be visible.
Other idea was to get new better fans (fractal´s arent the vest ones), but with white leds. What to you guys think when i put some white led Corsair fans front and back does it make inside the case littlebit more visible or it would be overpowered by white and kills the red led behind the motherboard tray (sorry, i dont have pics with led right now, i´m on it).
Also i prefer led fans because i can buy AF120 and SP120 with really good price right now but they dont have one´s without the leds so its basically white led strip + other brand fans or Corsair led fans.
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