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post #12551 of 16055
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wirerat View Post

Not sure what you will gain doing so. I am using one of fractals new venturi 140mm Fans and it is pushing a ton of air through there without any modification. its only a 1200RPM fan at max. I cannot hear any noise from the air passing through there unless I position my ear behind the case.

Grills restrict airflow. And they induce noise. Honeycomb pattern is among the ones to be avoided. See for yourself, just what Puget's testing shows. Go ahead and test it yourself if you think what their testing shows is false. Or did you even read the article?. Oh wait you probably don't even care. What you already have is already quiet to you. Why even comment?
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post #12552 of 16055
Quote:
Originally Posted by lagittaja View Post

Grills restrict airflow. And they induce noise. Honeycomb pattern is among the ones to be avoided. See for yourself, just what Puget's testing shows. Go ahead and test it yourself if you think what their testing shows is false. Or did you even read the article?. Oh wait you probably don't even care. What you already have is already quiet to you.
Because your were talking about cutting up the back of the case. I think buying into a quality 140mm exhaust fan can do the job without all that.

You want to do that to your case based on the performance of Antec Tricool fans then go ahead. I see that the Tricool lost a max of 9% cfm on the honeycomb. A better static pressure fan would loose less. Also it gained 5.5% or 3db of sound at the honeycomb. Again a quieter fan would gain less.

Its not a terrible idea but There are fans out today that overcome the mesh design of a case without being loud.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lagittaja View Post

Why even comment?
seriously? Just sharing my experience so People considering a fratcal case dont think they have to chop out all the fan mesh to have a quiet rig with good airflow.
Edited by Wirerat - 5/1/15 at 8:46pm
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post #12553 of 16055
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wirerat View Post

Because your were talking about cutting up the back of the case. I think buying into a quality 140mm exhaust fan can do the job without all that.

You want to do that to your case based on the performance of Antec Tricool fans then go ahead. I see that the Tricool lost a max of 9% cfm on the honeycomb. A better static pressure fan would loose less. Also it gained 5.5% or 3db of sound at the honeycomb. Again a quieter fan would gain less.

Its not a terrible idea but There are fans out today that overcome the mesh design of a case without being loud.
seriously? Just sharing my experience so People considering a fratcal case dont think they have to chop out all the fan mesh to have a quiet rig with good airflow.

Oh dear lord you make my head hurt. Do you even understand anything about fluid dynamics? Or even blade geometry, how the pitch of the blade or the area of the blade affects a fans performance in different scenarios?
All fans suffer from grills, some more, some less. That HF-14 you linked is gonna suffer heck of a lot more from a honeycomb grill on it's exhaust side than the Tri-Cool does. Noise wise you can't do much. Sure you could slap variating blade shapes on a fan to break up the tonality (read AP123) to different spectrums for a more pleasant broadband noise but that more useful on the intake side, like wise the AP123 I mentioned is targeted for intake duties..

And since you brought up getting "better" fans.. I have a good fan on my rear exhaust. A14 from Noctua. It's significantly better than the Venturi HF-14 which uses the similar inefficient blade design of the Corsair AF140.
Airflow and pressure wise the A14 design at the same, around 1000rpm, speed is roughly 15-20% better while being quieter. NF-P14s on the other hand beats the crap out of both.
Also I'd love to see that HF-14 move air as much as they claim. 120 CFM @ 1200rpm. Bollocks. I'll tip my virtual hat if that thing manages even half of that.



At lower fan speed, for example around 710-750rpm the NF-A14 moves ~16% more air and generates a little under 15% more pressure. NF-P14s produces same pressure as the NF-A14 at that same speed but moves almost a fifth more air.

Here's a front shot of all four of these fans, perhaps you'll understand why they perform the way they do if you take good hard look at them.



Reason I don't have a NF-P14s PWM on my rear exhaust is because I bought the damn thing (A14) almost a year before the Redux line came out. Fortunately I got it with a hefty discount.
Edited by lagittaja - 5/2/15 at 12:15am
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post #12554 of 16055
Thanks but I know the difference in a static pressure fan vs a open air fan.

I have Gentle typhoon ap-15s where I need static pressure on my 360mm rad. The blade design is very different.

Static pressure fans push air out the diameter where open air fans blow air more direct in a more straight line.

I dont even know what your trying to argue now. I never made any spec claim on the Fractal fan.

Just that its pushing air out the back and its not loud even without removing the honey comb.

Why does that bother you so much? I can see why it hurts head.
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post #12555 of 16055
Quote:
Originally Posted by lagittaja View Post

Indeed but I wouldn't remove filters unless you want dust inside your computer. I plan on cutting the stupid honeycomb grill from the rear fan slot on my Define R5 and adding a wire grill.
Puget Systems has a great article on this. https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Effects-of-Grill-Patterns-on-Fan-Performance-Noise-107/
A traditional honeycomb grill is a 9% decrease to airflow on the exhaust side (8% on intake). Noise wise they measured an 2.5 dBA (35.5->38 or 7%) increase on low fan speed and 3dBA (55->58 or 5.5%) increase on high fan speed.
A simple wire grill on exhaust side decreased airflow by 3-4% on exhaust side (2% on intake). Noise wise they measured a increase of ½ dBA on low fan speed and .8 dbA increase on high fan speed.
Yeah I keep filters for sure. But all the grills be it metal or plastic, vrooom dremel cut out. Didn't bother yet to put a metal wire guard on the rear and might even not do it after reading it does restrict 2-4% and raises noise level, I thought it's not going to be even measurable, but it seems it is.
Cutting it out is fairly easy with a dremel, I used wire cutters originally but once you try the dremel you will never want to go back. The air restriction from grills is huge and easy to test with your own hands.
post #12556 of 16055
Been thinking about cutting the mesh from my Midi v1 for a while, and may finally just do it. Don't have a dremel, nor do any of my friends have one. Maybe using the wire cutters won't be so bad...
post #12557 of 16055
Hello, everyone.
I jumped on the $99.99 deal from New Egg for the R5 Black Window. I have plans of doing a custom loop and currently have some parts on the way from frozen.
I'm looking for some inspiration- anyone have custom water builds with the r5? I found a couple but not many due to this case being so new. Thanks thumb.gif
post #12558 of 16055
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsx821 View Post

Hello, everyone.
I jumped on the $99.99 deal from New Egg for the R5 Black Window. I have plans of doing a custom loop and currently have some parts on the way from frozen.
I'm looking for some inspiration- anyone have custom water builds with the r5? I found a couple but not many due to this case being so new. Thanks thumb.gif
Here is mine at least, Will remind you that i am 15, and this is my first real custom loop, so might not be the best, eps. as the Cpu get the water after the gpus. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

My Oc is 4.75Ghz 1.33V for the Cpu, cache at 4.5Ghz, 1.270V, and the Gpus are custom flashed 980 G1s, running at 1557/2004Mhz at 1.275V. smile.gif
post #12559 of 16055
Quote:
Originally Posted by GreedyMuffin View Post

Here is mine at least, Will remind you that i am 15, and this is my first real custom loop, so might not be the best, eps. as the Cpu get the water after the gpus. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

My Oc is 4.75Ghz 1.33V for the Cpu, cache at 4.5Ghz, 1.270V, and the Gpus are custom flashed 980 G1s, running at 1557/2004Mhz at 1.275V. smile.gif
how are your temps?

I would think a single thick 360mm would not be enough for two 980s and a 4790k unless the fanspeed is high.

Looking good though.
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post #12560 of 16055
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsx821 View Post

Hello, everyone.
I jumped on the $99.99 deal from New Egg for the R5 Black Window. I have plans of doing a custom loop and currently have some parts on the way from frozen.
I'm looking for some inspiration- anyone have custom water builds with the r5? I found a couple but not many due to this case being so new. Thanks thumb.gif


..........is frozen back up and running?
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