Originally Posted by enkur
Thanks for the suggestions. I might change them around some... my problem was that the tube was creating kinks when going through some components. I am using the quick disconnects that I had left over from a few years back so they are quite large and make routing a bit tricky.
I hear the new ones are much smaller and easier to route as they can twist inside the connector.
I may have to buy some angled (45 or 90 degree) fittings to make it a bit cleaner. currently one of the tubes sticks out of the case a bit and gets pushed when putting on the side panel.
I am going to be away for a couple of weeks and when I return I will rethink my loop a bit.
Does the order of the different components matter that much?
No it does not matter much. The water temperature inside the loop varies very little through the loop. This of course depends on the flow rate of the loop..
Relevant quote from ROG forums by the user named fronzel because he explained it better than I could
tl;dr: As simple and short tubing is better than the complexity you have right now.
The temperature of the water never varies more than a few degrees C through the entire loop in a typical setup.
However, this all comes down to waterflow. With good flow you are never even going to see 1 degree C of difference.
I don't have temperatures to show from my own system, but we can do some simple math to illustrate:
Water has a heat capacity of about 4182 J pr kg pr K at sea level and room temperature.
Lets take a MCPx35 with 1050 L/h, and assume you get less than half that flow in an actual WC loop - 500L/h
Mass moving through the system every second (500/60/60) = 0,139 kg
Heat capacity of that mass (0,139*4182J) = 580 per degree Kelvin
This means you have 580 Watts of heat being removed from your system for every one degree Kelvin/Celcius of difference on inlet and outlet temperatire on the radiator. And this is the highest temperature difference you are going to have in a loop with this flow rate.
With a very low flow rate you will get higher temperature differences through the loop, and placement of components in relation to radiators might become a factor.
And the conclusion: now i want a flow meter and temperature sensors in my loop
Like Jidonsu said, you could go with reservoir/pump --> GPU --> CPU --> Top radiator --> front radiator --> reservoir/pump. And not have to change anything else other than the tubing/loop order.
Of course you could flip the rad like he said, and have a rad between GPU/CPU but if your flow rate is good enough, you will not see a difference.
Though if you flip it, then the tubing is gonna be longer, so.. Yeah.. (and personally, in my head it looks better if you don't flip it)
Edit: Although while I'm at it, I'd probably think about having the top rad exhaust along with making the rear fan intake air. Add a filter to the rear fan and voila. Filtered 2x front/1x rear intakes, 2x exhaust at the top > air flow/pressure wise quite balanced.Edited by lagittaja - 1/29/16 at 5:11pm