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[Official] Fractal Design Case Club - Page 1383

post #13821 of 15939
Quote:
Originally Posted by enkur View Post

Showing off my latest build

EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump)
EK-FC Titan X/GTX980 Ti Waterblock - Nickel
EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm Fan) Vertical
EK-Ekoolant EVO Blood RED (concentrate 100mL)
EK-Supremacy EVO CPU Water Block - Nickel/Plexi
EK-Coolstream PE 240mm x 2
Fractal Design Defne R5 Window case

Looks great! Beautiful job
post #13822 of 15939
Quote:
Originally Posted by enkur View Post

Showing off my latest build

EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump)
EK-FC Titan X/GTX980 Ti Waterblock - Nickel
EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm Fan) Vertical
EK-Ekoolant EVO Blood RED (concentrate 100mL)
EK-Supremacy EVO CPU Water Block - Nickel/Plexi
EK-Coolstream PE 240mm x 2
Fractal Design Defne R5 Window case
]

You might get a cleaner loop if you go reservoir/pump --> GPU --> CPU --> Top radiator --> front radiator --> reservoir/pump.

If you want water to pass through radiator before and after each water block, then this might work. Flip the top radiator and then do this.

reservoir/pump --> GPU --> top radiator --> GPU --> front radiator --> reservoir/pump
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post #13823 of 15939
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerPowered View Post

Looking at getting a Define S for a new mATX Build. Anybody now the dimensions of the Top vented area. Im looking at getting a custom magnetic filter and am wonder how big it needs to be. I know that DEMCiflex makes them for other Fractual Cases along with many others..

I've heard that it's identical to the R5, so the R5 filters might fit.
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post #13824 of 15939
Thanks for the suggestions. I might change them around some... my problem was that the tube was creating kinks when going through some components. I am using the quick disconnects that I had left over from a few years back so they are quite large and make routing a bit tricky.

I hear the new ones are much smaller and easier to route as they can twist inside the connector.

I may have to buy some angled (45 or 90 degree) fittings to make it a bit cleaner. currently one of the tubes sticks out of the case a bit and gets pushed when putting on the side panel.

I am going to be away for a couple of weeks and when I return I will rethink my loop a bit.

Does the order of the different components matter that much?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jidonsu View Post

You might get a cleaner loop if you go reservoir/pump --> GPU --> CPU --> Top radiator --> front radiator --> reservoir/pump.

If you want water to pass through radiator before and after each water block, then this might work. Flip the top radiator and then do this.

reservoir/pump --> GPU --> top radiator --> GPU --> front radiator --> reservoir/pump
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post #13825 of 15939
Quote:
Originally Posted by enkur View Post

Thanks for the suggestions. I might change them around some... my problem was that the tube was creating kinks when going through some components. I am using the quick disconnects that I had left over from a few years back so they are quite large and make routing a bit tricky.

I hear the new ones are much smaller and easier to route as they can twist inside the connector.

I may have to buy some angled (45 or 90 degree) fittings to make it a bit cleaner. currently one of the tubes sticks out of the case a bit and gets pushed when putting on the side panel.

I am going to be away for a couple of weeks and when I return I will rethink my loop a bit.

Does the order of the different components matter that much?

It's an expensive hobby, for sure. I've spent weeks thinking about this before my first loop. I'm about to order everything I need. I'm sure I'll run into issues as well.

You might get like a 1 degree difference in the water temp that enters your block if you go direct from GPU to CPU. It won't matter much. You'll get better performance by having a much shorter run though. Plus, your case will be more open, increasing airflow.The cleanest and shortest route will likely work the best.
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post #13826 of 15939
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtrapuzz View Post

Stick with the 360. You will be glad you have some extra room.

Could you expand on that?

Would http://www.performance-pcs.com/black-ice-nemesis-360gts-ultra-stealth-u-flow-low-profile-radiator-black-carbon.html

with 3x Noctua NF-F12 be the right fit then?
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post #13827 of 15939
Quote:
Originally Posted by vietrice89 View Post

Could you expand on that?

Would http://www.performance-pcs.com/black-ice-nemesis-360gts-ultra-stealth-u-flow-low-profile-radiator-black-carbon.html

with 3x Noctua NF-F12 be the right fit then?

420 is to close to the motherboard. Any 360 should be OK as long as your ram isn't too big. Try to find a 360 rad that is closer to 120 mm wide.
post #13828 of 15939
Quote:
Originally Posted by enkur View Post

Thanks for the suggestions. I might change them around some... my problem was that the tube was creating kinks when going through some components. I am using the quick disconnects that I had left over from a few years back so they are quite large and make routing a bit tricky.

I hear the new ones are much smaller and easier to route as they can twist inside the connector.

I may have to buy some angled (45 or 90 degree) fittings to make it a bit cleaner. currently one of the tubes sticks out of the case a bit and gets pushed when putting on the side panel.

I am going to be away for a couple of weeks and when I return I will rethink my loop a bit.

Does the order of the different components matter that much?

No it does not matter much. The water temperature inside the loop varies very little through the loop. This of course depends on the flow rate of the loop..

Relevant quote from ROG forums by the user named fronzel because he explained it better than I could
Quote:
The temperature of the water never varies more than a few degrees C through the entire loop in a typical setup.
However, this all comes down to waterflow. With good flow you are never even going to see 1 degree C of difference.

I don't have temperatures to show from my own system, but we can do some simple math to illustrate:
Water has a heat capacity of about 4182 J pr kg pr K at sea level and room temperature.
Lets take a MCPx35 with 1050 L/h, and assume you get less than half that flow in an actual WC loop - 500L/h
Mass moving through the system every second (500/60/60) = 0,139 kg
Heat capacity of that mass (0,139*4182J) = 580 per degree Kelvin

This means you have 580 Watts of heat being removed from your system for every one degree Kelvin/Celcius of difference on inlet and outlet temperatire on the radiator. And this is the highest temperature difference you are going to have in a loop with this flow rate.

With a very low flow rate you will get higher temperature differences through the loop, and placement of components in relation to radiators might become a factor.

And the conclusion: now i want a flow meter and temperature sensors in my loop

tl;dr: As simple and short tubing is better than the complexity you have right now.

Like Jidonsu said, you could go with reservoir/pump --> GPU --> CPU --> Top radiator --> front radiator --> reservoir/pump. And not have to change anything else other than the tubing/loop order.
Of course you could flip the rad like he said, and have a rad between GPU/CPU but if your flow rate is good enough, you will not see a difference.
Though if you flip it, then the tubing is gonna be longer, so.. Yeah.. (and personally, in my head it looks better if you don't flip it)

Edit: Although while I'm at it, I'd probably think about having the top rad exhaust along with making the rear fan intake air. Add a filter to the rear fan and voila. Filtered 2x front/1x rear intakes, 2x exhaust at the top > air flow/pressure wise quite balanced.
Edited by lagittaja - 1/29/16 at 5:11pm
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post #13829 of 15939
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skullzaflare View Post

Hey guys, Figure i would drop my octo core r4 here lol
in process of ordering 2 280mm radiators to make fit, ram blocks, and 970 block

Has anyone squeezed 2 280mm rads in the design r4?
would like to do 280's, but hate to order and find it is way to much work to fit
post #13830 of 15939
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