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post #14381 of 16057
The Node 202 has been an interesting build experience.

Started here:



Tried the stock 95W AMD cooler in the case. I knew it wouldn't fit, but wanted to see with the dust filter removed...would it? Answer: Yes, but it is such a tight fit you may want to mod the case if you simply must have this cooler.

I tried a 70x10mm fan in its place. Did it work? Sort of, but the 10mm fan couldn't move enough air, so I scrapped that idea and waited for the Noctua.



Noctua came in (it was the last part to arrive from the Egg.) It fit, but with the case put together, it just gets too hot. The processor that is. Thermal throttling says hello.



I ordered what turned out to be a really nice 92x25mm fan from Amazon. It's the Arctic F9 PWM if you're interested.

Fits like a charm with the lid closed, moves a lot more air, thermal throttling mostly gone but with the GPU installed, it can still happen in certain circumstances. Would like a GPU with a blower, but right now is not the best time to being picking up a new GPU. Waiting...





Found a good deal on a Corsair H55, and thought I would try my hand at making it work in this case, for now, without the GPU installed.



Found yet another good deal on a 250 GB mSATA drive. So I've got this installed and removed the WiFi module since I'm wired with CAT6.



I can overclock it to 4.5 GHz game stable, but so far there aren't many games I want to play on the APU beyond older DX9 and early DX11 titles. Steam In-Home Streaming is fantastic on this box.

Temps are amazing now, but of course I can't install a GPU in this configuration unless I

A) Mod the case

or

B) Revert back to the Noctua cooler with the Arctic F9 PWM.

There's a third option, and that could be to keep the H55 installed, possibly rotate it 90 degrees, and install a mini GPU such as an R7 250, an RX 460, a mini GTX 960 or 970 or even an R9 Nano.

As it stands, here she is with her front USB ports removed and covered. I only use the front audio ports. USB is taken care of in the rear. If I want to put the USB ports back in, I would probably look for some without shielding or I would need to remove the H55 radiator.




Removed the heat spreaders from the G.Skill DDR3, hoping to promote a bit more air flow through the case and on out the top when mounted vertically.



I like it in the tower orientation, although without a GPU installed, it seems to be just fine in horizontal home theater configuration.



I think this makes almost the perfect streaming box, with room for more than 8 TB of internal storage for local media (more if you want to use splitters and tape the drives to the chassis.)

Steam In-Home Streaming....can't say enough good things about it when it works. *When it works* Sometimes it doesn't...black screens, etc. YMMV.




I watched all of The Martian on HBO Go after putting it back together and playing an hour of GRiD AutoSport. It plays like a champ and stays virtually silent.

The Noctua low noise adapter *really* helps considering it's a 3-pin DC fan. I will need to look into fan control options on this Asrock motherboard with DC fans and pumps.
Edited by mypickaxe - 6/27/16 at 8:15pm
post #14382 of 16057
Quote:
Originally Posted by mypickaxe View Post

The Node 202 has been an interesting build experience.

Started here:



Tried the stock 95W AMD cooler in the case. I knew it wouldn't fit, but wanted to see with the dust filter removed...would it? Answer: Yes, but it is such a tight fit you may want to mod the case if you simply must have this cooler.

I tried a 92x10mm fan in its place. Did it work? Sort of, but the 10mm fan couldn't move enough air, so I scrapped that idea and waited for the Noctua.



Noctua came in (it was the last part to arrive from the Egg.) It fit, but with the case put together, it just gets too hot. The processor that is. Thermal throttling says hello.



I ordered what turned out to be a really nice 92x25mm fan from Amazon. It's the Arctic F9 PWM if you're interested.

Fits like a charm with the lid closed, moves a lot more air, thermal throttling mostly gone but with the GPU installed, it can still happen in certain circumstances. Would like a GPU with a blower, but right now is not the best time to being picking up a new GPU. Waiting...





Found a good deal on a Corsair H55, and thought I would try my hand at making it work in this case, for now, without the GPU installed.



Found yet another good deal on a 250 GB mSATA drive. So I've got this installed and removed the WiFi module since I'm wired with CAT6.



I can overclock it to 4.5 GHz game stable, but so far there aren't many games I want to play on the APU beyond older DX9 and early DX11 titles. Steam In-Home Streaming is fantastic on this box.

Temps are amazing now, but of course I can't install a GPU in this configuration unless I

A) Mod the case

or

B) Revert back to the Noctua cooler with the Arctic F9 PWM.

There's a third option, and that could be to keep the H55 installed, possibly rotate it 90 degrees, and install a mini GPU such as an R7 250, an RX 460, a mini GTX 960 or 970 or even an R9 Nano.

As it stands, here she is with her front USB ports removed and covered. I only use the front audio ports. USB is taken care of in the rear. If I want to put the USB ports back in, I would probably look for some without shielding or I would need to remove the H55 radiator.




Removed the heat spreaders from the G.Skill DDR3, hoping to promote a bit more air flow through the case and on out the top when mounted vertically.



I like it in the tower orientation, although without a GPU installed, it seems to be just fine in horizontal home theater configuration.



I think this makes almost the perfect streaming box, with room for more than 8 TB of internal storage for local media (more if you want to use splitters and tape the drives to the chassis.)

Steam In-Home Streaming....can't say enough good things about it when it works. *When it works* Sometimes it doesn't...black screens, etc. YMMV.




I watched all of The Martian on HBO Go after putting it back together and playing an hour of GRiD AutoSport. It plays like a champ and stays virtually silent.

The Noctua low noise adapter *really* helps considering it's a 3-pin DC fan. I will need to look into fan control options on this Asrock motherboard with DC fans and pumps.

Very nice setup. I'm very curious about using a 120mm AIO with one of those short itx gpus. Please keep us informed!
My System
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
4690k @ 4.6ghz MSI z97m gaming MSI GTX 980 gaming TF5 4x4gb Gskill Sniper ddr3 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 840 250gb Bunch'a mechanical hdds!  Cooler Master Seidon 120m (cpu)  Windows 8.1 64bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Panasonic 55" 3d plasma / Qnix QX2710 Cooler Master Quickfire TK Silverstone sst-st85f-p 850w silver Fractal Design arc mini r2 
MouseMouse PadAudio
Logitech G600 Razer Vespula 7.1 Home theater 
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My System
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
4690k @ 4.6ghz MSI z97m gaming MSI GTX 980 gaming TF5 4x4gb Gskill Sniper ddr3 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 840 250gb Bunch'a mechanical hdds!  Cooler Master Seidon 120m (cpu)  Windows 8.1 64bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Panasonic 55" 3d plasma / Qnix QX2710 Cooler Master Quickfire TK Silverstone sst-st85f-p 850w silver Fractal Design arc mini r2 
MouseMouse PadAudio
Logitech G600 Razer Vespula 7.1 Home theater 
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post #14383 of 16057
Thread Starter 
Nice build you have in the 202. I really wanted to go with that case, but the cooler support was a big turn off. Hopefully they'll make a slightly bigger one that can fit a bigger CPU cooler.
post #14384 of 16057
Quote:
Very nice setup. I'm very curious about using a 120mm AIO with one of those short itx gpus. Please keep us informed!

I'll go ahead and let you know now, it will require some modification to the frame of the case (most likely via hack saw and file,) removal of the 2.5" storage mount (use m.2 or mSATA and/or tape your drive somewhere else in the case) or physically disassembling a 120mm AIO (voiding warranty, careful not to lose any of the liquid / refill when done.)

I saw a video on YouTube where someone did something close to this, but I would try my best to find some workarounds, possibly even weld the piece back on after cutting it off.
post #14385 of 16057
Wow. That's just way too much molding for me. I'm guessing the same could be said for the other console like itx cases like the Silverstone and the like.

Was kind of hoping with some creative routing of the tubing something like the gigabyte 970 itx would work in the other half.
My System
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
4690k @ 4.6ghz MSI z97m gaming MSI GTX 980 gaming TF5 4x4gb Gskill Sniper ddr3 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 840 250gb Bunch'a mechanical hdds!  Cooler Master Seidon 120m (cpu)  Windows 8.1 64bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Panasonic 55" 3d plasma / Qnix QX2710 Cooler Master Quickfire TK Silverstone sst-st85f-p 850w silver Fractal Design arc mini r2 
MouseMouse PadAudio
Logitech G600 Razer Vespula 7.1 Home theater 
  hide details  
Reply
My System
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
4690k @ 4.6ghz MSI z97m gaming MSI GTX 980 gaming TF5 4x4gb Gskill Sniper ddr3 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 840 250gb Bunch'a mechanical hdds!  Cooler Master Seidon 120m (cpu)  Windows 8.1 64bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Panasonic 55" 3d plasma / Qnix QX2710 Cooler Master Quickfire TK Silverstone sst-st85f-p 850w silver Fractal Design arc mini r2 
MouseMouse PadAudio
Logitech G600 Razer Vespula 7.1 Home theater 
  hide details  
Reply
post #14386 of 16057
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackCY View Post

Unfortunately what silent means for PC parts makers has so far only gotten up to sticking a bitumen on the side panel and covering the fan slots when empty, at best covering the front fan intake with a door which helps a lot.

For me... I've added STP silver on big parts of the case that had nothing on it, top, bottom, 5.25 bay since I didn't want to remove it. Cut out all the fan grills to remove air obstructions and removed the front fan "trap door" and cut out any unnecessary obstructions again. In the end remade the fan filters with proper mesh. Of course whole case is raised by an inch thick rubber so the bottom intake actually works and isn't starved.

Do you think that those fan grills have any substantial negative influence on noise levels/air flow? Did cutting them affect case stiffness negatively?
What do you mean by front fan "trap door"?
What do you mean by proper mesh?
And yes, legs are to small, it limits airflow for bottom fans and power supply and make them noticeably louder, I noticed that very easily and moded sufrace my case is standing on so it can have more space at the bottom.
post #14387 of 16057
Stiffness? No. I've cut a hole for PSU fan since my PSU fan didn't even fit the original hole I use passive PSU mode anyway though, bottom grill gone and rear grill gone. I kept side panel and top grills since I don't use these. I don't think the stiffness would change if you remove the large top grill the stiffness is really defined in the corners. Of course if it was plastic then it gets a little different as plastic bends so easily.

Yes grills they obstruct a lot and increase noise, you can find comparisons with data on how each type of grill does. These stamped hexagon are quite restrictive, even the basic wire grill does restrict airflow.
Put your hand on exhaust of a fan covered by a grill and then behind a fan not covered by a grill, the difference? Quite big. Even noise changes.

The R4 has a removable front trap door, I don't know how to call it, it works like a castle bridge folds up and down and serves no purpose at all other than to change aesthetics when you open the main front door.

Original:


Mine:


Door gone, all plastic in front of fans that wasn't necessary I cut out also cut out a bigger hole at the bottom of the front panel as it does like to intake air from there, there is some small cut out so I just made it much bigger.

The fan filters from FD are quite coarse they don't really filter much:



Bottom with original filter but moded to be removed from the front using raised feet. The bottom of front door isn't cut yet, you can see how tiny that intake from bottom is there.

post #14388 of 16057
Does anyone know if I can remove the plastic bracket where I pointed the red arrow to and mount a SSD there so I can remove the bottom HDD cage for better airflow?

img_1695.jpg
post #14389 of 16057
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lither View Post

Does anyone know if I can remove the plastic bracket where I pointed the red arrow to and mount a SSD there so I can remove the bottom HDD cage for better airflow?
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
img_1695.jpg

There should be 4 screws holding it in like there is on the bottom one.
post #14390 of 16057
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimensive View Post

There should be 4 screws holding it in like there is on the bottom one.
I have removed the plastic bracket but can't seem to put the screws in the SSD as I need to reach in through the top to screw the SSD in place.
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