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post #14521 of 16139
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benjiw View Post

I still need to mod the front bezel, if the bezel is on the air won't pass through the rad because the inside measures 27mm of the bezel. If I drill holes or simply cut out a square then use some mesh I can have the best of both worlds. The irony is that if the case was an inch taller, wider and had another inch on depth most of the clearance issues we face wouldn't exist.

Lol, one more inch! I've got a 360 and a 240 in my Define S but I'm finding watercooling a bit tedious and not necessarily worth the effort (solely my opinion, I'm not being down on watercooling in general) so I'll be transitioning to air in the next few months. I'm curious to see how well-suited the Define S is to air cooling with the lack of HDD cages and 5.25" drive bays.
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post #14522 of 16139
Quote:
Originally Posted by LazarusIV View Post

Lol, one more inch! I've got a 360 and a 240 in my Define S but I'm finding watercooling a bit tedious and not necessarily worth the effort (solely my opinion, I'm not being down on watercooling in general) so I'll be transitioning to air in the next few months. I'm curious to see how well-suited the Define S is to air cooling with the lack of HDD cages and 5.25" drive bays.

It works amazing with air coolers too so you will be fine.
I on the other hand will never go back to air because...
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



Even with 1.6v I still have 10c or so of thermal headroom.
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post #14523 of 16139
The Noctua NF-F12 are still a good option for rads this days?
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post #14524 of 16139
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benjiw View Post

It works amazing with air coolers too so you will be fine.
I on the other hand will never go back to air because...
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



Even with 1.6v I still have 10c or so of thermal headroom.

Oh yeah, that's a fantastic overclock! I personally don't need to squeeze every single ounce out of my CPU and GPU and even if I want to it's a lot of effort and money that I'm not quite willing to spend... especially with my time commitments and ever-shrinking free time. Now, ten years ago, definitely. thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by jvidia View Post

The Noctua NF-F12 are still a good option for rads this days?

I believe these days there are better options, like EK Vardars. Others will be able to offer you more info and your best bet would be the OCN Watercooling Club and Picture Gallery.
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post #14525 of 16139
Quote:
Originally Posted by jvidia View Post

The Noctua NF-F12 are still a good option for rads this days?

I would say so, I had some on my 2x 360mm setup before switching, I like them, my gf currently has them in her system.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LazarusIV View Post

Oh yeah, that's a fantastic overclock! I personally don't need to squeeze every single ounce out of my CPU and GPU and even if I want to it's a lot of effort and money that I'm not quite willing to spend... especially with my time commitments and ever-shrinking free time. Now, ten years ago, definitely. thumb.gif

I have the parts so might as well squeeze, I only run those numbers when benching most the time my chip sits at 1.5v 4.7ghz as its a poor overclocker sadly.
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post #14526 of 16139
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benjiw View Post

I would say so, I had some on my 2x 360mm setup before switching, I like them, my gf currently has them in her system.
I have the parts so might as well squeeze, I only run those numbers when benching most the time my chip sits at 1.5v 4.7ghz as its a poor overclocker sadly.

All I do is game on my computer and, increasingly rarely, code on it. The OC I've achieved on water isn't that much better than the one I'd be able to get on air (not sure if bum 8350 or what) so to me the ease-of-use of air is king. That and I can sell off my WC stuff and sock away the cash for my next GFX card and monitor biggrin.gif
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post #14527 of 16139
Quote:
Originally Posted by LazarusIV View Post

All I do is game on my computer and, increasingly rarely, code on it. The OC I've achieved on water isn't that much better than the one I'd be able to get on air (not sure if bum 8350 or what) so to me the ease-of-use of air is king. That and I can sell off my WC stuff and sock away the cash for my next GFX card and monitor biggrin.gif

8350? Should be able to hit 4.8ghz easily with the UD5 my 8350 is on a watercooled sabertooth at 5ghz.


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post #14528 of 16139
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benjiw View Post

8350? Should be able to hit 4.8ghz easily with the UD5 my 8350 is on a watercooled sabertooth at 5ghz.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



I can hit 4.8GHz no problems all day long... it's getting to 4.9 and 5.0 GHz that is tough to do. To me, if I'm going to be at 4.8GHz (which I'm fine with, this chip is awesome at 4.8GHz and above) I might as well go the easy route and get a Cryorig R1 Ultimate or Noctua NH-D15 or somesuch. Plug it in, OC, win life. Boom. gunner.gif
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post #14529 of 16139
Quote:
Originally Posted by LazarusIV View Post

[/SPOILER]

I can hit 4.8GHz no problems all day long... it's getting to 4.9 and 5.0 GHz that is tough to do. To me, if I'm going to be at 4.8GHz (which I'm fine with, this chip is awesome at 4.8GHz and above) I might as well go the easy route and get a Cryorig R1 Ultimate or Noctua NH-D15 or somesuch. Plug it in, OC, win life. Boom. gunner.gif

Stick a fan behind your socket to lower the socket temp and either a waterblock on the VRM or a fan/s over the VRM heatsink. 5ghz for me means 1.6v VCORE, very high LLC, 140% current rate and a slew of other settings, the key to overclocking the 8350 is just keeping it under 80c or the solder melts.
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post #14530 of 16139
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benjiw View Post

Stick a fan behind your socket to lower the socket temp and either a waterblock on the VRM or a fan/s over the VRM heatsink. 5ghz for me means 1.6v VCORE, very high LLC, 140% current rate and a slew of other settings, the key to overclocking the 8350 is just keeping it under 80c or the solder melts.

Maybe I'll see if I can divert some of the airflow from the front towards the back of the mobo, maybe a little air-guide of some sort? Black cardboard or some plastic... times like these I wish I had a 3D printer...
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CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
Thermalright Le Grand Macho RT 4 x Phanteks PH-F140XP_BK Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit QNIX QX2710LED 27" 2560x1440 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Ducky Zero 2108S Brown Switches Cooler Master V1200 Platinum Fractal Design Define S Logitech G502 Proteus Core 
AudioAudio
Asus Xonar U7 Sennheiser x Massdrop PC37X Gaming Headset 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core 2 Duo P7350 HP Generic nVidia GeForce 9200M GS 4096 MB 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
320GB Blu-Ray ROM Manjaro 16.10 stable 15.4" WXGA 1280X800 
Keyboard
Chiclet 
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