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post #8941 of 16136
The Core 1000 makes a great little cheap server box once you shove an improvised HDD rack in.

I have done a few modifications to mine to make it more server friendly. Mainly soundproofing via some adhesive closed cell foam and dust filters on the intakes.



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Fractal design Core 1000 (modified) Dell Perci 5i 8 port raid card (Currently not i... CyberPower DX 800VA UPS 
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The Defender
(18 items)
 
The HTPC
(17 items)
 
The server
(11 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7 3820 3.6GHz  Gigabyte GA-X79-UD3 ASUS GTX 560ti OC'd @ 1.03 GHz  Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600Mhz  
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Samsung 840 Pro 128GB 2.5" Samsung Spinpoint 5,400 RPM - 500GB Samsung SH-B123L  Thermaltake Frio  
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit Samsung B2430HD  Philips 226V  CM Storm Quickfire TK - Cherry MX Brown - White... 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Silverstone Strider Gold Evolution 750 - 80+ Gold Antec 900 first gen Steelseries Kinzu V2 Pro - gloss black Roccat Sense glacier blue 
Audio
ASUS Xonar DG, custom 5.1 sound system 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i3 2100 @ 3.1 Ghz  Asus P8H61-MX R2.0 XFX HD 7770 1GB @ stock 8GB Corsair XMS 1333MHz (2x 4GB) 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Hitachi 320GB 2.5" super slim drive LiteOn IHOS104-06 4xBlu-Ray Arctic Freezer Pro 7 Rev. 2  Windows 7 Home premium 64Bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Sony TV 32" IPS 1080p Logitech media keyboard  Sunbeam 650W Customized  Lian Li PC-7 SE Black aluminum 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
N/A N/A LG 850W 5.1 Cinema system - optical link to Xon... ASUS Xonar DGX 5.1 sound card 
Other
Tevii S470 
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AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition  Asus M5A78L-M/USB3 Corsair 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 XMS3  OCZ Agility 3 (OS Drive) 
Hard DriveHard DriveOSPower
2x 2tb drives in raid 1 Various drives in JBOD Windows Home server 2011 Corsair CX 430 V2 
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Fractal design Core 1000 (modified) Dell Perci 5i 8 port raid card (Currently not i... CyberPower DX 800VA UPS 
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post #8942 of 16136
I'm thinking of getting an Arc Midi r2, and i need some advice on fan intakes/exhaust.

I'm planning on SLI in the future with EVGA GTX 770 SC w/ ACX. What i had initially planned was 2x front intakes, 2x top intakes, 1x rear exhaust. As for the bottom fan, i'm not sure whether to set it to exhaust or intake. I would also most probably use the last top fan as intake as well, but with the stock fan. I'm planning to get the AP-15 fans.

Any suggestions on how to improve airflow? Thanks.
post #8943 of 16136
Quote:
Originally Posted by ds84 View Post

I'm thinking of getting an Arc Midi r2, and i need some advice on fan intakes/exhaust.

I'm planning on SLI in the future with EVGA GTX 770 SC w/ ACX. What i had initially planned was 2x front intakes, 2x top intakes, 1x rear exhaust. As for the bottom fan, i'm not sure whether to set it to exhaust or intake. I would also most probably use the last top fan as intake as well, but with the stock fan. I'm planning to get the AP-15 fans.

Any suggestions on how to improve airflow? Thanks.
Two top exhaust, rear exhaust, bottom intake, front two intake. I believe that was originally how the case was designed for airflow. Tho that's just the way I run mine, equal amount of pressure through the case. All the heat will rise and be sucked out, while the bottom fans are drawing cool air into the case. Which usually works best in most situations.
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post #8944 of 16136
heat rise is overrated - rising heat is only a serious factor in a totally passive setup
a bumblebee displaces more air as the natural convection/rise in a passive setup

Thus, as soon as you introduce fans, the "heat rises" point is moot.


for the Arc Midi : all Intake, except the rear which needs to be set at higher RPM/speed so that it can deal withthe positive pressure created by all those IN fans
example assuming you fill in all the positions with the same fans Rear out 1000-1100 RPM , Front,Top,Bottom IN: 700-800 RPM
post #8945 of 16136
Alternately, could you just not have a rear fan and let all the air come out naturally?
 
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Loop 3: EK-FB KIT SR-X CSQ Nickel/Plexi Loop 3: Alphacool NexXxos Monsta 120mm Loop 3: Mayhems Pastel Red All Loops: Aquacomputer Aqualis 450ml w/ Pump A... 
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post #8946 of 16136
Quote:
Originally Posted by RnRollie View Post

heat rise is overrated - rising heat is only a serious factor in a totally passive setup
a bumblebee displaces more air as the natural convection/rise in a passive setup

Thus, as soon as you introduce fans, the "heat rises" point is moot.


for the Arc Midi : all Intake, except the rear which needs to be set at higher RPM/speed so that it can deal withthe positive pressure created by all those IN fans
example assuming you fill in all the positions with the same fans Rear out 1000-1100 RPM , Front,Top,Bottom IN: 700-800 RPM
One would argue that hot air is less dense than cold air. Thus why the whole "hot air raises" factor comes into play (flotation). When you're introducing hot air into a closed environment, it will distribute itself until it reaches a thermodynamic equilibrium. Tho computer cases aren't exactly closed systems. So one would argue that introducing cool air at the bottom of the system, effectively persuades the hot air to go up and out on its own. If the case fans at the bottom of the case move enough air into the case. You wouldn't need fans at the top of the case only an air vent. Which has actually been implemented on a successful case already, the SilverStone RAVEN. Which bases its whole air flow on that theory.
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post #8947 of 16136
Arc Midi R2 has arrived smile.gif so count me in.

Love the case, my 212 evo will be arriving tuesday to replace the *cough" AMD stock cooler *cough*.

So far I've turned the top fan into an intake and moved it to the middle, but can anyone recommend some (fairly quiet at idle, not extremely loud at full speed) 140mm fans capable of pushing lots of air through these filters?
Preferably not expensive fans either, but would I be able to improve temps by more than 5C with more/better fans?
post #8948 of 16136
As long you have good airflow. There is no middle 140mm top mount.
To have performance and silent against filters won't happen. As faster you go, more noise us made. Finding balance is what you want.
My rig you can see only the rear fan 140mm is exhaust, all the rest is 140mm intake.
Works well for me in my home.
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post #8949 of 16136
No middle 140mm slot? The Arc Midi R2 has 3 top slots, the back 2 are 140mm and the third (where the ODD drives go) is 120mm.

Silence is not what I want. At idle (for browsing) it should be a low hum, it can be quite a lot louder for gaming as I use IEMs. I was just wondering if the investment of more/better fans would improve temperatures by a decent amount, and if so which ones are good for a case like this, where filters/grill provide quite a bit of obstruction to airflow.
post #8950 of 16136
as with so many things in life, follwoing goes with fans
you can have them in following variations

silent + performance = NOT cheap
silent + cheap = NO performance
performance + cheap = NOT silent

cheap + silent + performance = unobtainium
and i am not even mentioning PWM and "bling" smile.gif


the 140 mm FDs that come with it are not bad , they go upto 1000 RPM although they could do with a bit more pressure given the filters FD uses on their cases. specs: http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p14096_FRACTAL-DESIGN-fan-FD-Silent-Series-R2-FD-FAN-SSR2-140---140x140x25mm--.html

silent & performance puts you in Noctua & Noiseblocker territory - they dont come cheap
http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p15623_Noctua-NF-A14-PWM---140x140x25mm--.html

or Gently Typhoon if you switch to 120mm
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