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Painting steel/aluminum

post #1 of 19
Thread Starter 
Hey guys, I'm really interested in painting my case, I want to follow the stickied guide but I have 2 questions in mind.
I have this case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811119042
will it much diffrent to paint that unlike the plastic laptop in the sticky?
Also, how expensive can this get?
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post #2 of 19
Exact same procedures if you have any questions that arnt answered in the sticky just ask
    
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post #3 of 19
If you want some pics, check my case mod.

it is simply using 300grit paper to rougph it up, then prime, sand, paint, sand, paint, finish sand....
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post #4 of 19
Thread Starter 
Just updated sig....
So you mean to say that steel/alum will act the same as if it were plastic?
I mean it's alot smoother from what I can tell. Do i need some sort of metalic primers or anything? Metalic paints?
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post #5 of 19
Actually, for the ultimate bond, all three require different preperation.
I good home remidy for metals is a zink chromate primer which is available at automotive paint stores and probably places like Murrys or Autozone. It's self etching and does not require sanding. Apply 2-3 light coats, it runs easily. Very lightly sand with 4-600g sandpater or scuff with a grey scuff pad before applying paint. If the metal already has paint on it, 4-600g sandpaper preps the surface well provided it's cleande properly.
Plastics are another animal all together. Plastics should be well cleaned with soap water and well rinsed before any work is done to remove the parting agents left behind from the molding process. Plastic primers are available at automotve paint stores. The Krylon you've seen on TV is actually rather good at adhearing but does better when the plastic is cleaned as I recommended.
There are other various methods of metal prep but the above works well for the task. The Automotive/Truck/Aircraft standards are far more demanding and require various acid etching for metals and specific primers dependant upon the type of plastic to be refinished.
    
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post #6 of 19
Thread Starter 
Great info duke, so.. do I sand in between each primer coat? Or do I sand after all 3 coats, then wash? Somewhat confused... After all 3 coats I apply paint, and do I sand after every coat of paint aswell? Kinda trying to follow the guide... Also, should I buy gloss colored paint, or a gloss layer seperate?
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post #7 of 19
Wont paint melt if its not the right kind too?
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post #8 of 19
NO, you don't have to sand between each coat, just the final coat of primer. Just wait about 15-20 minutes between coats.
The reason for sanding is to remove imperfections and promote adhesion. Wiping the dust of with a tack is best for also promoting adhesion an the overall finish quality

Quote:
Originally Posted by Retrospekt
Wont paint melt if its not the right kind too?
Laquer will melt styrene but I do not believe that is used in computer components. Styrene... in the airaited form is styrofoam.
Styrene is commonl used for model cars. planes... like the model kits you build.
    
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post #9 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by eboy0
Great info duke, so.. do I sand in between each primer coat? Or do I sand after all 3 coats, then wash? Somewhat confused... After all 3 coats I apply paint, and do I sand after every coat of paint aswell? Kinda trying to follow the guide... Also, should I buy gloss colored paint, or a gloss layer seperate?
No just a final light rub down after the last coat. This will remove any build up and foriegn particles on it prior to painting.
Remember to also use a solvent suitable for the paint type you are using to wipe down the primer prior to painting also.

Use a gloss finish and apply clearcoat over the top once dry and hard.

I prefer to use a QD enamel.

edit: LOL..too slow on the keys again hey ?
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post #10 of 19
Thread Starter 
Got it duke, any info on the gloss/no gloss? Also, what paints in particular would you suggest? I'm looking for a dark blue color and a glossy finish, the stuff at ACE sucks.

EDIT: Ok got it, any suggestions on paints?
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