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[Official] AMD Radeon HD 6850/6870 Owners Thread - Page 357

post #3561 of 6939
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiderbro View Post
Give me a good reason for it to do that. A size difference too small is not one (the size difference between 12cm and 14cm is ~36%, btw), you still haven't given me a reason why the efficiency (CFM/dB) curve is not linear. You just keep repeating "140mm is not as effective".
Looks like your fan manufacturers marketing department has succeeded, once again.
Your 2000rpm fan is not the same model as the 1200rpm: the weight, MFT and colors differ way too much. E: seems like you noticed that, too.
Same goes for pet rocks fans, where the CFM is 50% higher for the 140mm but the noise level is 100% lower.

On topic, my 6850 has run 950/1225 at 1.15v stably for ~three months now. Tops 85c in furmark with the fan indistinguishable from 1000rpm GTs - I'd like to give a voltage bump to see if I could break 1ghz, but im worried about temps. I don't want to turn the fan louder.
Instead, I've thought about removing the GPU case and using my own 120mm fan on the heatsink. The only way to do this is to remove the whole heatsink. Question is, are the guys at Sapphire able to see if I have removed the heatsink and reapplied the TIM?
1.15v? are u sure
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post #3562 of 6939
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiderbro View Post
On topic, my 6850 has run 950/1225 at 1.15v stably for ~three months now. Tops 85c in furmark with the fan indistinguishable from 1000rpm GTs - I'd like to give a voltage bump to see if I could break 1ghz, but im worried about temps. I don't want to turn the fan louder.
1.15v is insane! Are you sure that's right? I got my 980/1100 oc using 1.3v at the moment.
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiderbro View Post
Instead, I've thought about removing the GPU case and using my own 120mm fan on the heatsink. The only way to do this is to remove the whole heatsink. Question is, are the guys at Sapphire able to see if I have removed the heatsink and reapplied the TIM?
I reapplied TIM on mine. Pretty sure it's ok as long as you don't do any modifications.
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post #3563 of 6939
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiderbro View Post
Give me a good reason for it to do that. A size difference too small is not one (the size difference between 12cm and 14cm is ~36%, btw), you still haven't given me a reason why the efficiency (CFM/dB) curve is not linear. You just keep repeating "140mm is not as effective".
Looks like your fan manufacturers marketing department has succeeded, once again.
The reason the chart would not be linear is simple, because the fans are designed on compromise (noise before airflow).It would be linear if the amount of the size bump was in direct correlation with the amount the rpm is lowered but thats not the case.
The smaller difference is the point.The bigger the difference between the two fans the more you can reduce rpm and keep airflow up.With the size difference so small you cant reduce rpm by 80+% and keep air flow up.once again of coarse you can reduce rpm and move the same amount of air but it has to be in correlation with size.IM saying with almost all 140mm they reduce rpm too much in the name of sound to keep up with the 120's.built on compromise.Let me try to explain Diminishing returns.The bigger the fan gets the less your going to get out of a 20mm bump in size.
Think about it going from 200mm to a 220mm do you really think you can reduce the rpm by 80% and still keep the same airflow?

I cant think of a easier way to put it.lets use your numbers lets say the 140mm fan can run 36% slower and move the same amount of air the problem is that 36% reduction in rpm is not enough to make the fan much quieter than a 120mm so they lower the rpm even more to reduce sound and compromise airflow in the process.If they made 140mm fans for airflow alone (some companies are starting to now)shore they would move more air but thats not what im saying.Im saying right now if your getting a exhaust fan and airflow is your prime concern gat a good 120mm,and if silence is your prime concern and you can fit one a 200mm fan would be best.Noise dosn't matter you get a crazy 5500rpm 120mm 252cfm
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835706015
Noise is a factor but you still want great airflow if you can fit it you get a 700rpm 200mm 110cfm 19dba
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103073
the highest airflow 140mm at newegg(easily found)
1800rpm 103cfm 36dba
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835132023
now considering I can get a 1900rpm 120mm 110cfm at 37dba the 140mm is not looking too good.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185060
Edited by smoke420 - 5/4/11 at 10:41am
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post #3564 of 6939
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironcobra View Post
1.15v? are u sure
Yes, and I've seen many similar clocks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by smoke420 View Post
The reason the chart would not be linear is simple, because the fans are designed on compromise (noise before airflow).
Why would they do this when you can always lower the rpm of the fan yourself?
Quote:
Originally Posted by smoke420 View Post
IM saying with almost all 140mm they reduce rpm too much in the name of sound to keep up with the 120's.built on compromise.Let me try to explain Diminishing returns.The bigger the fan gets the less your going to get out of a 20mm bump in size.
Are you talking about pure CFM or efficiency (CFM/dB ratio)? You're just saying you can't lower the rpm as much, but it has nothing to do with the efficiency I'm talking about.
Quote:
Originally Posted by smoke420 View Post
Think about it going from 200mm to a 220mm do you really think you can reduce the rpm by 80% and still keep the same airflow?
I'm not saying that, and that's not the point.
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post #3565 of 6939
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiderbro View Post
Yes, and I've seen many similar clocks.
no offense but pics please, i really find it hard to believe ur running that high on stock volts, i cant get higher then 920 on stock
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post #3566 of 6939
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krusher33 View Post
1.15v is insane! Are you sure that's right? I got my 980/1100 oc using 1.3v at the moment.
That voltage seems high to me. I got my single card to 995/1200 at 1.225. Did you just mash the voltage to max or run separate tests for each bump?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironcobra View Post
no offense but pics please, i really find it hard to believe ur running that high on stock volts, i cant get higher then 920 on stock
I can't remember what my max at stock volts was (haven't OC'd since I went CF), but my last saved profile on stock volts is only 860/1100. Probably should've tried pushing that I guess.
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post #3567 of 6939
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironcobra View Post
no offense but pics please, i really find it hard to believe ur running that high on stock volts, i cant get higher then 920 on stock
Sure, should I run 3Dmark06, Heaven 2.1, GTV IV or maybe Furmark or something else for the screencap?
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post #3568 of 6939
no its ok im just like woa, i just got new ram in to replace my faulty and was able to goto 940 on stock 1.157, its probaly just different cards but what an oc on stock if tru, trixx only lets me goto 1.233 and i cant get over 960 with that
Edited by Ironcobra - 5/4/11 at 10:17am
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post #3569 of 6939
Quote:
Originally Posted by a pet rock View Post
That voltage seems high to me. I got my single card to 995/1200 at 1.225. Did you just mash the voltage to max or run separate tests for each bump?
Yeah, I probably could lower it back down a bit. I kept bumping it up to that point and finally decided to come down on the memory and then it became stable. This only happened last night so tonight I'll do more tweaking.
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post #3570 of 6939


I want in this club. My overclock isn't too high because I can't touch the voltage.

Broken image, hold on.

Fixed.
Edited by Damn_Smooth - 5/4/11 at 11:05am
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