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[Official] AMD Radeon HD 6850/6870 Owners Thread - Page 358

post #3571 of 6939
Quote:
Originally Posted by Damn_Smooth;13380101 
I want in this club. My overclock isn't too high because I can't touch the voltage.

Just curious, can't or don't want to? I didn't know there were 68xxs that didn't allow voltage control.
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post #3572 of 6939
Why would they do this when you can always lower the rpm of the fan yourself?

Because when they bumped the size from 120 to 140 they were doing it for a quieter fan not for more airflow.This is why I keep talking about the 200mm fans if they were doing it for airflow they would be much higher rpm and cfm just like the 140mm.

Are you talking about pure CFM or efficiency (CFM/dB ratio)? You're just saying you can't lower the rpm as much, but it has nothing to do with the efficiency I'm talking about.

In a way both, meaning efficiency (CFM/dB ratio) yes the 140mm would be better but because there so close in size that point were the 140mm is moving more air at lower noise levels is smaller compared to say the jump from 80mm to 120mm.
Now for pure cfm.Same speed the bigger fan is going to move more air.but because the sizes are so close you only have so much you can lower the rpm before your moving less air than the smaller fan.

Im not saying on a efficiency (CFM/dB ratio)chart that the 140mm wouldn't be between the 120 and the 200.Im saying that 120 and 140 would be so close that if you lowered the rpm enough to make it quiet (most manufacturers are doing this)it will move less air then a 120.and if you want to move more air than a 120 the rpm of the 140 would have to be so close it wouldn't be quiet.

As to why the manufacturers do this,its the same reason they make low rpm super quiet 120mm fans.Most people go bigger for less noise sure you could get a fan controller and lower the speed yourself but not everyone wants to, and they like to advertise how quiet there fans are.

Im not saying a 140mm fan cant be more efficient than a 120mm.

What im saying is most 140mm fans are so biased towards being quiet that they move less air than a good 120mm 2000rpm fan, and they aren't that loud to begin with.
Edited by smoke420 - 5/4/11 at 4:14pm
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post #3573 of 6939
I think you're speaking of the ones that brag about being under 10dB? Where humans can't hear that low anyways? Yeah, they're on my ignore list.

Anyhow, this debate has gone on long enough for a thread about video cards. If you wish to keep it going, start a thread in the Air Cooling section and link here.
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post #3574 of 6939
Quote:
Originally Posted by a pet rock;13379351 
That voltage seems high to me. I got my single card to 995/1200 at 1.225. Did you just mash the voltage to max or run separate tests for each bump?

Dropped down to 1200... failed in less than a minute. 5mv bumps till 1280. 1280 passes for 20 minutes.

Not a decent card but, meh. I'll probably be running it at 950 gaming/folding sessions anyways where it's good at 1200.

I am proud of the cooler though. Even at that high of voltage and clocking, temps never reached above 74. Made me nervous because 80 is the limit I go by.
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post #3575 of 6939
hey guys

i own an asus eah 6850, on which i want to reapply the TIM
i have some questions as i have read many of you have reaaplied TIM on your cards and achieved better temps

1.how easy is to remove the cooler from the pcb
2. will removing the cooler and reapplying TIM void warranty
3.what should be the best method to apply the TIM, whether it should be rice grain method or should i apply the TIM on the 2 Cu pipes first??
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post #3576 of 6939
1. Mine was just 4 screws and pull apart. Sticky from TIM.
2. I don't think so.
3. Most have solid copper. It's rice grain if that's the case. If direct heatpipes, then lines in between the pipes.
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post #3577 of 6939
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krusher33;13389712 
1. Mine was just 4 screws and pull apart. Sticky from TIM.
2. I don't think so.
3. Most have solid copper. It's rice grain if that's the case. If direct heatpipes, then lines in between the pipes.
1.yup just like the sapphire only 4 screws. run furmark or something similar before removal to heat up the tim a little and the cooler will come right off.

2.Also coudn't find this info but truthfully I dont see how they could tell anyway.

3.I got best results by using both methods.a razor thin layer on the heatsink to fill all the voids.and a rice grain on the gpu incase the heatsink wasn't flat.

I have herd that you can get a bubble doing it like this but haven't had any problems.I have sense replaced both coolers with aftermarket one's also direct heatpipe using the same method.
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post #3578 of 6939
Quote:
Originally Posted by smoke420;13383360 
Im not saying on a efficiency (CFM/dB ratio)chart that the 140mm wouldn't be between the 120 and the 200.Im saying that 120 and 140 would be so close that if you lowered the rpm enough to make it quiet (most manufacturers are doing this)it will move less air then a 120.and if you want to move more air than a 120 the rpm of the 140 would have to be so close it wouldn't be quiet.
What do you mean with quiet, quieter than 120mm or? If that's the case, then you are saying it's not between the 120mm and the 200mm. Otherwise im pretty confus.
Quote:
Originally Posted by smoke420;13383360 
What im saying is most 140mm fans are so biased towards being quiet that they move less air than a good 120mm 2000rpm fan, and they aren't that loud to begin with.
What's your point, of course silent 140mms move less air than an ear raping 120mm?

On topic, I asked Sapphire about replacing/reapplying the TIM and they said it would ruin the warranty. The only way for them to check if the heatsink's been removed would be some kind of a warranty sticker (or analysing the ingredients of the paste in case it looks similar), so you have to be careful during the operation.
Edited by spiderbro - 5/5/11 at 7:39am
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post #3579 of 6939
thnx guys

as you can see in this pic that the eah6850 dosent have a solid cu base but 2 pipes
so i guess line method would work better, right?
also in th pic you can see a lot of TIM as spreaded outside the cu pipes, is it correct or a case of too much TIM being applied?

[IMG]ttp://img204.imageshack.us/i/acc0339.jpg/]acc0339.jpg[/URL] Uploaded with
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post #3580 of 6939
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiderbro;13390630 
On topic, I asked Sapphire about replacing/reapplying the TIM and they said it would ruin the warranty. The only way for them to check if the heatsink's been removed would be some kind of a warranty sticker (or analysing the ingredients of the paste in case it looks similar), so you have to be careful during the operation.

Didn't see a sticker on mine.
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