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Poweradjust 2 usb change the rpm of your laing ddc pump - Page 2

post #11 of 26
Thread Starter 
Well I have now got it running at 3000RPM which is pretty damn sweet.
I just don't know why I can't keep it at 1900RPM when i turn the pc on.
It's as if the pump hasn't got the juice to start its rotation. It trys but fails unless I turn the knob for more power..IE 3000rpm. Once the pump is rotating I can put it down to 1900RPM but I would like it to be at 1900 24/7 even when starting the computer up, IE pressing the power button to the computer.
I am fine running at 3000RPM but would like the option to start the pump at 1900RPM.
The thing is when I start the computer with the pump set at 3000rpm, the pump will start straight away, whereas if I have it set on 1900RPM, it fails to start.
Does this have something to do with my fan controller not giving it enough juice to start up?
Is there any fan controller which would?

Some help would be great.
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post #12 of 26
A lot of electric motors require a higher voltage to start than they do to keep turning. Did you try what I mentioned earlier?
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post #13 of 26
Thread Starter 
Yeah that didn't workfor some reason. Just stayed at 4500rpm. If I get a fan controller rated at a higher wattage/amps, would this do the trick. Starting the pump at 1900rpm?
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post #14 of 26
No, that isn't the problem. The problem is that the fan controller is doing it's job and only providing the pump with a low voltage, it's just that that voltage is too low for the pump to being rotating.

Basically electric motors have three voltages:

Minimum Rotating Voltage
Starting voltage
Nominal Voltage

The nominal voltage is the voltage for which the electric motor is designed to run - in this case 12v. The starting voltage is the voltage that can be applied to start rotation of the pump - let's say this is around 6v. The Minimum rotating voltage is the minimum voltage that is required to maintain rotation while the pump is already in motion .

When you set the fan controller to 1900 RPM it turns the pump down to 5v, which is enough to maintain rotation. However, when you reboot the computer and the pump turns off, it spins down to 0 RPM. When you turn the computer back on, the fan controller re-applies the 5v. Unfortunately 5v is not enough for the pump to start turning, as that requires 6v. Thus the pump doesn't turn on.

Another way of looking at this is to look at one of you fans. They use an identical DC electric motor. If you try and spin the blades with your hands (while they are off) you will notice a resistance. When you start the electric motor this resistance must be overcome for the motor to start turning. After this has been overcome, the amount of power going to the motor can be reduced and the motor will keep turning.

TL;DR The only way to get the pump to run at 1900 RPM will be to somehow configure it to get 12v applied to it for about 1-2 seconds when you first boot before reducing the voltage to control it back to 1900 RPM.

I hope you understand this post, it's late I'm not good at explaining things in the first place.
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post #15 of 26
Thread Starter 
Does anyone know a Fan controller capable of doing this? I've heard of it before.
Is it a sunbeam or something?
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post #16 of 26
I don't know how you haven't killed that channel on your fan bus. The Laing uses 18w the Scythe Kaze Master Pro only provides 12w (1 Ampere) and the Laing uses 1.5 (Ampere).

For a good controller:

Sunbeam Rheobus Extreme Fan Controller, which is 30w per channel (2.5 ampere)

and

Lamptron FC5 V2 Fan Controller, which is the same wattage.
post #17 of 26
Thread Starter 
Do you think this would have the amps to start the Laing at 2000rpm?
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post #18 of 26
It should do. But just be weary that you are running something that draws more than unit can supply.

But since you are using it a half RPM then I think that you should be fine.
post #19 of 26
a) Fan controllers are usually heavily under-rated (don't count on this!)

b) If he's upgrading the controller anyways, he might as well get one that supports automated fan start up.

c) As you can see from Skinnee's Testing, the DDC actually only uses 16w, which is only 4w more than 12w. As well, if the fan controller truly has a 12w resistor in it (it must) you would actually be able to run 20w devices. Here's why:

at full speed, the fan controller is dissipating 0w of heat as resistance is 0. At 0v, the resistor is creating a voltage drop of 12v, but since current is 0 the resistor is also dissipating 0w. In between these numbers the amount of heat dissipated by the controller is maximized at 6v, you have a resistor creating a 6v voltage drop.

Therefore, for a 20w device: 20w/12v = 1.66 A

6v*1.66 A = 10w - under the 12w maximum that the fan controller is designed to handle.

Salsal still might want to replace his fan controller anyways, so that he can get one with automatic low-speed fan control.
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post #20 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Salsal View Post
Do you think this would have the amps to start the Laing at 2000rpm?
Again, this isn't the problem. The problem is that the pump doesn't have enough volts to start.

It takes more power to start a pump than it does to keep it running. This is why when you set the pump to 1900 RPM it will keep spinning, but when you reboot it will not start. The fan controller is doing it's job perfectly and limiting the pump to a low voltage.

The only way to get this to work is to have the fan controller temporarily give more voltage to the pump at boot before reducing the voltage back down to quiet it up.
Edited by charliehorse55 - 10/25/10 at 3:47pm
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