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Should I Get A New H/S?

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
My temps on my 630 are 40/56 (idle/load). I want to overclock it when i get my new mobo but should i get a new H/S because these temps are high or r they fine?
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post #2 of 11
Thread Starter 
^bump
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post #3 of 11
im not really sure about the temps for the 630 :S im only familiar with presscotts and northwoods mostly :S you probably will no be able to over clock in that dell :S sorry to smash your hopes
if you were to overclock you would need a better hs/f and a better motherboard anyways i reccommend the Big Typhoon by ThermalTake in my opinion its the best that money can buy
i dont know abou motherboards you would probaby have to go to the intel mobo section and have a super mobo man help you :S lol good luck
REP +

~Rabies
post #4 of 11
If you want to overclock it would be advisable to get a good cooling uni because with your overclock your temps will raise a alot, i hear the Big Typhoon is a realy good cooler, many people use it when overclocking their CPU.

Another good cooler i hear is the Tuniq Tower. this should give u lower temps with your overclock.
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post #5 of 11
Get a typhoon for it, I had a 660 & 650 with a typhoon both overclock to max and never went past 47c under full load.
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post #6 of 11
Looking at the change in temperature between the idle and load states (16C) I would advice you to upgrade to a better cooler to allow you to overclock far.
An increase in voltage does significantly increase the core temperature if heat can not be removed by the system cooling fast enough, this will build up if it can not be removed and may in the end cause TM1 to activate.

Your processor, the 630, is built on a core called the Prescott 2M, it is a revision of the original Prescott with a larger cache size (~14% slower however compared to a 5xx series CPU) and a few extra features. Its temperature levels should therefore remain within the Prescott levels.

A maximum of 67.7C is the limitation that I would advice on this processor
post #7 of 11
rabies229: he's already getting a new motherboard, so that's taken care of

When overclocking, it is always advisable to get after market cooling. Your current temps are a tad high for my taste. If it fits in that HP case, the BT is the way to go, but that thing is HUGE. Pop that case open and see if you have room. If you can't fit the BT, a 'flower' design like the ZALMAN CNPS7700-CU might fit.

BT: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835106061
Zalman: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835118115

Also, check the airflow. How many case fans do you have and how are they directed. I advise at minimum one 120mm intake ni the front and a 120mm exhaust in the back, or two 80 mm intakes in the front and one 80 exhaust in the back.

Did you buy your new motherboard already? Give us a price range and we might be able to help.
    
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post #8 of 11
.....that you already said you were getting a new motherboard. So wait and see what your temps are in that board. They are all different. And when you look at the Big typhoon and it won't fit (like is the case for many people), take a look at what Scythe has to offer. The Katana 775 might be enough for you.

In my opinion you have some room with your existing temps though. It just depends if those are your temps when you change the board. Also make sure you have exhaust at the rear and intake in the side. It is important that you have external air coming into the heatsink/fan. In a lot of cases it is more important to have undisturbed air coming in from the side rather than forcing it in with a fan.

We have done a lot of testing of air and fans lately and each system is different of course. But one setup that works often is exhaust in the back and front and top. Clean air coming in the side and everything else on exhaust.

I know a lot of people are scratching their heads about that previous statement but when you blow the air across the disk and into the case it just makes it harder for the cpu to get cool. If the air the the cpu is getting comes in from outside it will be the coolest air in the case. IT WORKS!!

One last thing is that you need to use Artic Silver 5 no matter what heasink you use. Follow the directions on their website for applying it.
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post #9 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by jph1589
We have done a lot of testing of air and fans lately and each system is different of course. But one setup that works often is exhaust in the back and front and top. Clean air coming in the side and everything else on exhaust.
Good point. However, I am not sure if his HP case has a side fan intake. My airflow design is based on my Antec P180, where I don't have hard drives obstructing my front intake fan (they're in the lower chamber). I even took out the hard drive bracket (including mounting rails!) to further enhance airflow. Each system is indeed different, and I suggest to experiment a little with fan directions.

If you don't have a side intake, and the hard drive is indeed in front of the front intake fan, a suggestion might be to relocate the hard drive (into a 5.5 inch slot using a bracket) and remove the hard drive bracket. Just a thought.
    
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post #10 of 11
One thing for sure. Don't decide on the cooler until you get the new board in the case and see what room you have. I would also put a vent in the side if you dont have one. It is pretty simple to do. It will make a huge difference.
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