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My WaterCooling Build Log --- LEAK TESTING!! - Page 5

post #41 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by GatorLCA
Buy a Single Pole Double Throw switch (SPDT) @ Radio Shack or at a hardware store, then cut off the tail end of a fan with a 3-pin connection (because the CMOS is a 3-pin connector)

Wire up the 3 ends that correspond to the CMOS connection

Up - selects CMOS pins 1 & 2 which resets the CMOS
Middle - is neutral
Down - select CMOS pins 2 & 3 which is the standard position of the jumper

You might need to buy some extra wire since most fan wiring is not long enough and you need to destroy a fan in the process as well, if you have one lying around

And you'll need to drill a hole somewhere in the case to mount the switch, which can be done with a rotary tool (a must for any case modder)
sounds pretty easy if u ask me how long did it take u to do all that n how long have u had wc
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post #42 of 117
Thread Starter 
Watercooling is in the process....all I need is my radiator and I can start leak testing.

The mod took about 10 minutes, all I needed to do was make the hole for the switch to go into. I had already made the relay to the CMOS last night so I jsut had to wire it up...I'll be able to test how it works when my WC'ing is finally completed
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post #43 of 117
u cud leak test now before u get ur radiator just to see if u have to rma anything or take it back depending were u got ur stuff at
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post #44 of 117
Thread Starter 
I could but I'd rather wait until everything get here so I do not have to bleed it and refill it so many times.

It depends, I done with my exams so I'll be looking for something to do

I do need to mod my case today for the fillport when it gets here in the mail
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post #45 of 117
Looks awesome Gator, keep up the good work.
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post #46 of 117
Thread Starter 
Today was a good day...so far UPS brought my radiator and my RAM

My Fillport and UV should be brought by USPS but it might come tomorrow and that comes in about a half hour or so.

I didnt realize how large the radiator was and so it's not going to sit complete flush on the top of my case but it's not that big of a deal

So now i'm gonna see how well this RAM goes (I have a backup MX4000 to throw in) and then I'm going to mod the case

Going to be a long day
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post #47 of 117
Just out of curiosity (and slightly off topic), Gator, did you have to SIGN for your packages from Newegg with UPS?

I ask because I ordered a new case to start my water cooling build and custom case mod and another stick of 512 PC5400 and it was supposed to be delievered yesterday. UPS told me that Newegg required a signiture and so I have to go pick it up at the depot today since I work during the day.

UPS made it sound like a new procedure at the request of Newegg......
post #48 of 117
Forstner bits work great for those holes as well (for all you woodshop guys)!
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post #49 of 117
Thread Starter 
No I did not have to sign, if I'm not here they leave it on my back porch...they come so often I don't need to leave a note anymore...lol

If you dont leave instructions then they typically do not leave it, but will leave a drop off notice.

So, I've been having some trouble cutting the damn holes for my radiator since the top is steel and I really do not want to go out and buy more bits, cause they can get expensive (and I'm running low on cash and going on a little vacation that I need to have a certain amount for). So, I'm going to mount my radiator on the side of my case, where my mesh window is.

I know it's going to cover up most of my work when lighted up but I'm only drilling 2 extra holes and I'm getting a Thermaltake Armor in about 2 months, so by the time I need to flush the system out I'll already have the Armor on the way.

A little custom work going on but I'll sort it out.

Need to go to Lowe's now and pick up 2 elbow connectors (GPU Output is kind of kinking)
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post #50 of 117
Thread Starter 
Meh....well it seems like my luck has run out ....while leak testing the system, there's a leak coming from the barb coming from the output of the heatercore.

I e-mailed the guy where I got it from so hopefully it can be resolved that way or I'm gonna have to do it myself which I really do not want to if I don't have it.

It's a very minor leak, like 1 drop maybe every 4 secs so whatever the crack is must be very very small.

I'll look how to fix a radiator barb but spout answers for me here as well
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