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post #121 of 476
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdmfish View Post
YL, by the sticker on the back, I'd guess.
That's what it looks like, but it's rather hard to tell.
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post #122 of 476
Are the rest results of these fans interesting if you set them up in a push and pull config with a rad. You are testing the CFM, but i have to be looking at static pressure right?

I was planning on getting those YL's Clear blue led, but now i see they perform poorly on CFM! So should i have to take these results in mind when searching for fans for a rad?

You are doing a great job btw!
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post #123 of 476
Just here to say thank you Martin for this new work, awesome as all of yours!
Keep it going ^^
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post #124 of 476
Thread Starter 
Thanks! I think I might be about half way there on the 120mm MCR120 tests...a chunk of work though..


Quote:
Originally Posted by Tator Tot View Post
Oh nice! The new Zalman and AeroCool fans! (I've wondered if they were all looks or not.)

What's the fan with the 140mm adapter on it?
Yes, a yate loon medium speed D14SM-12. The other yates are an SM and an SL (non PTS) to see if there is any difference between PTS yates vs other stores. History says that there are differences....some stores carry the better variety.

Quote:
Originally Posted by willieboy90 View Post
Are the rest results of these fans interesting if you set them up in a push and pull config with a rad. You are testing the CFM, but i have to be looking at static pressure right?

I was planning on getting those YL's Clear blue led, but now i see they perform poorly on CFM! So should i have to take these results in mind when searching for fans for a rad?

You are doing a great job btw!
I'm testing on the radiator, so that scenario already takes into account the static pressure capabilities. Fans that are better with pressure will retain more of their max open air flow. Anyhow, no need to think about pressure or open air CFM, this is why I am testing on a radiator so you can see a good apples to apples comparison.

Regarding push/pull, yes I will do some. Vapor specifically sent me two of some fans to see just that. I'm just planning to work through the single fan tests first is all.

Thanks!
    
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post #125 of 476
For that Panaflo NMB-MAT FBA12G12U Ultra High Speed fan you have tested must be a busted, misused, beat down, neglected, abused fan for it to be clicking like that.

Panaflo NMB-MAT FBA12G12U 1BX wma recorded from minimum to medium to ultra high back to minimum medium to ultra high. I have a few, they do not sound like that. Take a listen below.

1:51
http://www.mediafire.com/?aw463v03cd70wcb
post #126 of 476
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwistedMind View Post
For that Panaflo NMB-MAT FBA12G12U Ultra High Speed fan you have tested must be a busted, misused, beat down, neglected, abused fan for it to be clicking like that.

Panaflo NMB-MAT FBA12G12U 1BX wma recorded from minimum to medium to ultra high back to minimum medium to ultra high. I have a few, they do not sound like that. Take a listen below.

1:51
http://www.mediafire.com/?aw463v03cd70wcb
Are you using voltage or PWM to control the fan?

I've had my share of panaflos and they have all clicked at lower volts. My first watercooling rig, I had two MCR320's hanging off the back. Initially I bought yate loon slow speeds and ran those a few months. Then I heard many people say they liked 38mm fans better such as panaflos and I figured the extra thickness must be worth it, so I took the plung.

I bought 6 each panaflo medium speeds and replaced the yate loon slow speeds with those panaflos. 12V was too loud for my taste, so I undervolted them to my desired noise level.

I played around with those panaflos for a while, but ultimately...The clicking drove me nuts! I had to pull them out and put the yates back in...in my experience most 38mm fans just seem to click at lower volts.. If there is one trend I'm finding consistently through all this rather tedeous testing, with voltage adjusting control..you are much MUCH better off finding a fan that runs 12V about where you want to run them. Even with ultra quiet fans like the Gentle Typhoons, I'm finding the AP-13 is a fair amount smoother at 1200RPM than the GT-15.

Regardless, the Panaflo I tested was not abused or used. It has seen all of maybe 10 minutes of operation, it has been in storage for a while, but that's it..brand new otherwise. I have seen bad fan samples though, and I'd be more than willing to test another sample if someone is willing to sponsor one..

I suspect it will click at lower volts too though. My Zoom H1 microphone could hear a mouse fart across the room.. It's basically a studio quality XY directional microphone turned up to 100% manual gain, it doesn't get much more sensitive than that. My onboard T2I microphone fails to bring out the details and on top of that most video cameras have automatic gain control to adjust the volume as noise goes up. This is why I went to all the effort of the Zoom H1, this way every video has the same microphone gain and uses the best quality and most sensitive setup I can think of.

Bing is also helping me build a PWM controller for PWM designed fans. In addition, I've ordered a PWM controller for non PWM fans to try out. I'd like to explore the fan controller side of things too, perhaps there is a better method for this large hub fans. But for now, I'm fairly sensitive to noise, and I have yet to find a 38mm fan hub fan that doesn't tick to some degree undervolted. The best I've seen are the San Aces, but they also tick a small amount at really low volts. I know alot of people want to have it all with a fan, something with tons of power they can dial up or down as they see fit. Perhaps there is a way with PWM control, but I'm not finding that perfect solution with voltage alone..it's generally a compromise (Excellent power and high speed performance and rather crappy low speed sound quality), or you have very good sound quality in a low speed fan without the ability to go high speed. No best of everything.

And as always, this is just information. The bottom line with fans, you need to be happy with the sound and performance tradeoffs. Doesn't really matter what I think, I'm just testing and recording information to share..
Edited by Martinm210 - 11/14/10 at 6:24am
    
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post #127 of 476
Using a PWM fan controller.

Doesn't a PWM fan controller lower the voltage when you lower the RPM on a fan controlled by the PWM fan controller? If not how does it lower the RPM if it does not lower the voltage.
post #128 of 476
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwistedMind View Post
Using a PWM fan controller.

Doesn't a PWM fan controller lower the voltage when you lower the RPM on a fan controlled by the PWM fan controller? If not how does it lower the RPM if it does not lower the voltage.
No, it sends 12V in pulses. Sort of off/on/off/on...etc.

If you turn it down low enough some fans you can actually feel it torquing on/off/on.

That's good to know though, because I'd like to do some PWM testing myself. So far, I've just been doing voltage control since that's the way most people do it and the only way I can away from my noisy computer. I have PWM in my Crystalfontz controller, but I can't run it without my computer.

PWM is probably the way to go on 38mm fans or any fans that have trouble with motor tick during undervolting..I think that tick may improve with PWM control..
Edited by Martinm210 - 11/14/10 at 8:41am
    
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post #129 of 476
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwistedMind View Post
Using a PWM fan controller.

Doesn't a PWM fan controller lower the voltage when you lower the RPM on a fan controlled by the PWM fan controller? If not how does it lower the RPM if it does not lower the voltage.
A PWM controller works by pulsing the power going to the motor on and off thousands of times per second.

Basically the motor is on for 1-2 ms, then off for 1-2ms. The ratio between the time the fan is on and the time the fan is off defines how fast the blades will turn.



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation
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post #130 of 476
Ah, okok. Disregard my #125 post then.
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