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Help Lapping my xp120

post #1 of 16
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Ok, when I lap this thing, so I can use a 939 processor with it, I need to lap it down to the copper, and then some. Reason being is that my 478 chip made grooves where the corners was, and I can see copper. This will most likely affect my temperature...so I'd feel better getting this off, and lapping the nickel off. Any ideas on what to use? I know micron grit sandpaper will work, but is there anything else I could try to get all the copper to show?
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post #2 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ch13f121
Ok, when I lap this thing, so I can use a 939 processor with it, I need to lap it down to the copper, and then some. Reason being is that my 478 chip made grooves where the corners was, and I can see copper. This will most likely affect my temperature...so I'd feel better getting this off, and lapping the nickel off. Any ideas on what to use? I know micron grit sandpaper will work, but is there anything else I could try to get all the copper to show?

Poor Thermaltake XP120 . Lappings fairly simple. If you need to get those nasty corners nice and flat start with a P220 grit. My KINGWIN KWVC-3 for my video card pretty much had the same problem. Just make sure that the surface your lapping it on is flat and you tape down your sandpaper tightly so it doesn't move around nor cause an air gap. Start from 220, just enough to where the surface is actually leveled (it doesn't take that much pressure doing it on aluminum, so be careful). Once you feel the heatsink move easier around the sand paper, apply less pressure. This process took me atleast 20 minutes to get the paint/polish off. If you couldn't get it all off, do not fear. Just move up to a 400 grit once you feel the surface is straight. That will take off the the majority of it off. Follow the same steps all the way through 220,400, and 600. I made sure that all the paint/ polish was off witht he 600 grit before stepping to the 800. Once you move to a 800 grit, use less presure. I did it all the way from 220,400,600,800,1000, and 1500. I hope that will help you out.
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post #3 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solarcaine
Poor Thermaltake XP120 . Lappings fairly simple. If you need to get those nasty corners nice and flat start with a P220 grit. My KINGWIN KWVC-3 for my video card pretty much had the same problem. Just make sure that the surface your lapping it on is flat and you tape down your sandpaper tightly so it doesn't move around nor cause an air gap. Start from 220, just enough to where the surface is actually leveled (it doesn't take that much pressure doing it on aluminum, so be careful). Once you feel the heatsink move easier around the sand paper, apply less pressure. This process took me atleast 20 minutes to get the paint/polish off. If you couldn't get it all off, do not fear. Just move up to a 400 grit once you feel the surface is straight. That will take off the the majority of it off. Follow the same steps all the way through 220,400, and 600. I made sure that all the paint/ polish was off witht he 600 grit before stepping to the 800. Once you move to a 800 grit, use less presure. I did it all the way from 220,400,600,800,1000, and 1500. I hope that will help you out.

That seems expensive...is there like..some kind of variety pack of sandpaper I could buy? I know it sounds stupid but I'm gonna end up maxing out my spending, and I have to ask parents for money for this, so I'm trying to keep it down. also you think I could find this sandpaper in autozone or advanced auto..or pep boys..or some kind of auto part shop?
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post #4 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ch13f121
That seems expensive...is there like..some kind of variety pack of sandpaper I could buy? I know it sounds stupid but I'm gonna end up maxing out my spending, and I have to ask parents for money for this, so I'm trying to keep it down. also you think I could find this sandpaper in autozone or advanced auto..or pep boys..or some kind of auto part shop?
It's not that big of an investment. I payed atleast 17 bucks for that all. Trust me, if you want the best results you should do it. I bought each pack for atleast $3.85USD at Walmart within their Automotive section. Try explaining this to your parents. If their to cheap to actually see someone do the job "right" then just save up a little. Use your lunch money or something. Either do the job right or don't do it at all. Trust me me you won't regret it. It's better to do the job right, because once it's done right you don't have to mess with it again, or be dissapointed.. Because cheaping out on something which can be done so easily will most likely make the situation worst. Your probably better off buying them by each grit, variety packs usually don't go over 800 grit.
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post #5 of 16
Thread Starter 
yeah I understand what you mean. Almost like power supplies, you either buy a good one, or just hold back. Thanks, I'll try and talk her into going down to advance auto when I see her in about 30 minutes; in school.
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post #6 of 16
First of all, when did you get an xp-120? lol

Second, what surface are you using? Just a regular table, or something a little flatter (closer to the glass block ideal)? I was interested in lapping my xp-120 (and also lapping the ihs, or just popping it off), but couldn't really decide how to acquire a nice glass block.

Will a (formica) table work ok? It's smooth, but not flatter than the xp-120 is right now. Any advice?
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post #7 of 16
I lap everything that I can, First you need a square piece of glass, 400 grit sand paper to start, then finish it with 800 grit or better. take a black marker and draw an X on the surface, when the X is gone then your done.
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post #8 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ch13f121
yeah I understand what you mean. Almost like power supplies, you either buy a good one, or just hold back. Thanks, I'll try and talk her into going down to advance auto when I see her in about 30 minutes; in school.
Excellent choice! You put a smile on my face. Be sure to get the wet or dry grits. If you choose to use water, which i recommend, get yourself a cup of warm water and pour a little within the middle of your sandpaper. It makes the process a lot easier. Also be sure you rinse the paper regularly if it gets to dirty while your doing your work on it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ouroboros1827
First of all, when did you get an xp-120? lol

Second, what surface are you using? Just a regular table, or something a little flatter (closer to the glass block ideal)? I was interested in lapping my xp-120 (and also lapping the ihs, or just popping it off), but couldn't really decide how to acquire a nice glass block.

Will a (formica) table work ok? It's smooth, but not flatter than the xp-120 is right now. Any advice?
I used a lasercut sheet of acrylic glass. As long as the surface is flat there shouldn't be a problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrabb1920
I lap everything that I can, First you need a square piece of glass, 400 grit sand paper to start, then finish it with 800 grit or better. take a black marker and draw an X on the surface, when the X is gone then your done.
Good tip, that actually works, i did it on a slab of aluminum that I'm going to make my fan grill with.
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post #9 of 16
There is no copper in the xp-120....it's aluminum.
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post #10 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideburns
There is no copper in the xp-120....it's aluminum.
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