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My computer burst into flames! MSI 890GXM-G65 - Page 28

post #271 of 300
Quote:
Originally Posted by wumpus View Post
4 phases is plenty for an X6...
Depends on the board design, phases mean about jack didly when it comes to the power delivery. It's more about the Drivers, PWM Controller, & VRM's.

Biostar designs excellent 4+1 & 4+2 Phase boards; but MSI does not. MSI can't even deliver a solid 8+2 Phase design.
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post #272 of 300
I agree with you Tater.
You can assemble it any way you want with whatever you'd like but if it's not setup properly, it doesn't mean jack.
Even if it's setup "Properly" the drivers/BIOS must still be right as well for it to work that way too.
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post #273 of 300
Quote:
Originally Posted by langer1972 View Post
Msi=Death by VRM blowing up and burning the house down to the ground!
Was that post really necessary? Trying to boost your post count? It would behoove you to read the thread before interjecting with a no longer considered correct statement. It's now in consensus that the VRMs are not at fault as it is now being considered the drivers issue due to the VRM's being used successfully in other designs. Reading does a person good.

After looking at it over and over again, here's my theory on the mysterious screw. (Yes I'm still stuck on it)

The VRM failed as a result of a faulty driver, increasing heat to the point of failing; cracking and releasing voltage to the nearest ground source, the Heatsink. The screw maintaining the heatsink to the MB was close enough to a solder point and the case to carry the stray current causing the scorching and damage that we see on both the case and board.

So case solved? I was wondering why specifically these 'fetts failed. I was guessing bad batch? But a mismatched driver makes much much more sense now. Any other takes? Besides the obligatory "Water Cooling mysteries"?
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post #274 of 300
this thread is really about
how far can we go without messing our boards up and filling in the rest of the info for the VRM sticky

here are my settings where i am P95 stable and linx stable.

200HTT * 19x multi

CPU VDD to 1.3875v
CPU Core to 1.4300v
CPUNB VDD 1.100v
CPUNB core 1.212v

when i run linx my Vcore goes upto 1.480v
when i run P95 my Vcore goes upto 1.464v

my temps are 46C

now i know when i my vcore gets upto 1.480v on 6 cores that i am really pushing it
im really pushing some watts...im guessing alot MORE then 140watts rated for this board

i really wanted to do 4.0ghz but this board just has trouble with 4.0ghz without going quite a bit higher on the volts
    
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post #275 of 300
Quote:
Originally Posted by MediaRocker View Post
The VRM failed as a result of a faulty driver, increasing heat to the point of failing; cracking and releasing voltage to the nearest ground source, the Heatsink. The screw maintaining the heatsink to the MB was close enough to a solder point and the case to carry the stray current causing the scorching and damage that we see on both the case and board.
Even though it may have been a faulty component/s, MSI didn't implement thermal throttling. This is a big no no.
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post #276 of 300
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdbone1 View Post
if i were to take my HSF off my mboard to get the info on the VRM`s and North Bridge since it is all connected by the heat pipe.
what would i need to remount the Heat Sink again?
i have some arctic silver 5 but im not sure that is the right stuff to use.

on my video cards in the past there has always been like i thick tape that was reuseable and you could roll it up in little balls and then remount the heatsink (stock vcard coolers) and it would work
at least on my 8800gts 512 and 5770`s and 5870`s

so i can retrieve some info but i need to know what i need to do to do remount the heatsink on the vrm`s and north bridge i believe
thanks
I too would like some more info on this as I eventually plan to upgrade my CPU but I don't want to have to limit myself to 95W TDP and lower chips and I would like to just re-mount my VRM heatsink with better paste.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xd_1771 View Post
tdbone1: I remember seeing a picture (it was on this thread or another) showing NIKOS MOSFETs being used on this board before. I'm trying to find it at the moment. To remount the heatsink, you may require new thermal paste for the NB (if thermal paste and not pad was used). I believe the thermal pads connecting to the MOSFETs may be reused also, but not too sure. Arctic Silver 5 is electrically conductive, you could use that on the NB but do not use that on the MOSFETs; if it spills over between two there could be problems.
Is there any paste that you could recommend that is not electrically conductive? Because I believe that exchanging the pad for paste, even if it's not the most thermally conductive paste, would still be better than a pad....or is paste just not advisable because of possible warping of the board or heatsink and not having contact on all of the MOSFETs? If this is the case is there a high-quality pad you could recommend and where can I get them?

Anyone have any experience doing this and did it help your temps?
post #277 of 300
Quote:
Originally Posted by xd_1771;14009077 
I'm not sure who would be willing to do a test though it is an interesting idea. I'm more inclined to believe it differs per board, the voltage one uses (which may be different with every chip), the cooling, and the conditions (ambient temp). It may not end up being that accurate a test.

Meanwhile tdbone1 you will want to keep that 1090T at stock or less because the board is out of warranty. There have been some cases when a VRM fail incident has taken the CPU and/or PSU, sometimes even a stick of RAM apparently.

I'm just about ready to move back into Intel territory. I may sacrifice my 890FXA to see just which factors lead to spectacular VRM failure. Should be a fun afternoon.
    
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post #278 of 300
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil Penguin View Post
Even though it may have been a faulty component/s, MSI didn't implement thermal throttling. This is a big no no.
Don't say that! MSI is the best! Their motherboards are great! I run one right now and It's not catching on fire!

Idk if that's true, but I can't wait for the fanboys to come in here and start arguing about this

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zhanger View Post
I'm just about ready to move back into Intel territory. I may sacrifice my 890FXA to see just which factors lead to spectacular VRM failure. Should be a fun afternoon.
Don't use water cooling! If it fails I'd like definitive proof that water cooling wasn't "leaking" onto the VRMS!
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post #279 of 300
Quote:
Is there any paste that you could recommend that is not electrically conductive?
I use Arctic MX-2/MX-3 which is a great and easily found non-conductive paste.

Diagnosing the drivers for the failure makes sense. MSI is a regular at replacing the proper driver chips with less expensive transistor #3's, which results in less efficiency and - as pointed out - possibly higher chance of failure.

Concerning langer1972's post, I have PMed him for making statements like this, they do seem misleading. Not all MSI boards fail in the same way or have the same failure rate. Not all MSI products fail in similar ways to the boards; I use an MSI video card, overclocked by default, and plan to overclock it some more.
post #280 of 300
Quote:
Originally Posted by MediaRocker View Post
Was that post really necessary? Trying to boost your post count? It would behoove you to read the thread before interjecting with a no longer considered correct statement. It's now in consensus that the VRMs are not at fault as it is now being considered the drivers issue due to the VRM's being used successfully in other designs. Reading does a person good.

After looking at it over and over again, here's my theory on the mysterious screw. (Yes I'm still stuck on it)

The VRM failed as a result of a faulty driver, increasing heat to the point of failing; cracking and releasing voltage to the nearest ground source, the Heatsink. The screw maintaining the heatsink to the MB was close enough to a solder point and the case to carry the stray current causing the scorching and damage that we see on both the case and board.

So case solved? I was wondering why specifically these 'fetts failed. I was guessing bad batch? But a mismatched driver makes much much more sense now. Any other takes? Besides the obligatory "Water Cooling mysteries"?
I have done quite a bit of reading on MSI boards and no I am not trying to boost my post count. What I said was just an opinion people can make up their own minds on what motherboard they're going to buy.
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