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How to Paint

post #1 of 133
Thread Starter 


OCN Members:

Today I would like to talk about "how to paint". In this tutorial I hope to shed some light on alot of misinformation found here and across the web.

FAQ:
1. Do I need to remove all the old paint? NO; if paint was factory applied and is in good condition we will use it for a base.
2. What grit sandpaper should I use? No coarser than 320grit (The number indicates how much abrasive materials are applied per square inch.The smaller the # the coarser the paper)
3. What Brand paint should I use? Most any high quality name brand available in you area. I don't recommend the $0.99 specials.
4. Can I use laquer based paints? Yes. although lacquers tend to dry very fast and that can lead to less adhesion and may not be compatible with non sanding primers. Lacquers can never be used over acrylic enamels as lifting will occur.
5. Do I need to clearcoat all surfaces? NO. If using semi gloss paint on the interior and is prep and applied properly it is not needed. It will just add to the cost. Now if doing a multi color paint scheme on the exterior then YES if you want a smooth no tape line surface. (I will show that here)
6. Do I need to completely disassemble the case to paint the inside? NO. My personal opinion is I think it's a waste of time, plus you will really risk scratching it during assembly. Now don't get me wrong If that's what you want to do then by all means go for it.
7. I have a run in the paint,do I need to sand it all off and start over? NO. I will show an example of this in the pic tutorial.

What I hope to show here is how to complete a high quality job using spray paints. I will also show how to use auto paints in another section. The biggest problem with auto paints is the required equipment and quantities needed.

So lets get started and I will show you step by step just how easy it is to produce quality paint job with great adhesion.
__________________________________________________ _______________

What you will need:
1. Wax and Grease remover
1a. Cheap 1" disposable paint brush
1b. Clean uncontaminated towels or blue disposable shop towels.
2. 3M gray scuff pad (also called scotch brite pad)
3. 3M green masking tape. (please stay away from cheap tape,you will be a lot happier)
3a. Blue fine line tape if stripes or 2 tones will be applied.
4. Masking material (newspaper or paper grocery bags)
5. Tack rags
6. Non sanding primer sealer
6a. Primer surfacer.
7. Sandpaper 320 or 400 grit and 600 grit (wet-dry paper)
8. Nitrile gloves
9. Disposable spray mask
10. Clean well lit painting area with temps between 60f - 80f. Plan on using area 1-3 days depending on paint scheme.

This should be all that's required in most cases (get it?)





__________________________________________________ _______________

Preparation:
This is by far the most important step, but can also be the most over thought step. For 90% of most jobs all we will be using is wax and grease remover and the scuff pad.

Step:
1. Clean surface to be painted thoroughly with the wax and grease remover. Using a small container pour in a small amount of wgr and using the the paint brush thoroughly clean all surfaces,dry and repeat. If there are any manufacturing oils left on surface paint won't adhere properly.
2. Now take you scuff pad and thoroughly "sand" all surfaces to be painted. Blow with compressed air if available.
3. Now re-wipe all surfaces with WGR. Make sure you are wearing your gloves from here on out. let dry thoroughly.
4. Now it's time to mask up all areas you don't want painted or painted at this time. If your careful and take your time you can produce a quality job.
5. Now take you tack rags and gently wipe all surfaces to pickup any remaining dust particles.
6. Ok lets apply some primer,for bare metal parts we will just use a non sanding primer sealer. Spray according to label and let flash off.
7. As soon as primer is ready as per label, now we can spray the inside.


I will add more as it comes available.
Hope to start "case giveaway" #2 very soon. I will be using it here for the tutorial. Expect lots of pics and maybe couple videos.

Here's what I got.
Dupli-Color
1-primer sealer
1-primer filler
2-gloss white
1-gloss black
2-gloss clear

Update: Unfortunately Dupi-Color does NOT like to be re-coated after it's dry. When I let the clear dry overnight then sanded it with 600 grit wet prepping it for final coat it lifted (wrinkled) the previous finish. This was very unexpected, even though I read others having this problem.
I setup a test panel, primed, painted then cleared it . Let it dry for a week sanded it re sprayed with same results.
Conclusion: I can not recommend Dupi-Color with clear coat. Even though it works fine clearing right after paint. The problem will be when you have a need to respray it after it's fully cured.
Can you imagine how hard it would be to strip the inside of a case? Now I didn't have that problem when lets say sanding and re spraying the black on black with no clear coat involved.
I hope this will save someone some headaches. I will test other paints in the very near future.



close up

close up

I will need to work on this area after the hammer and dolly work

I opted to use 80 grit to prepare surface for plastic filler. I normally would use a 24 grit grinder but this metal is very thin. Main thing here is to make sure metal is roughed up well.

Here you can really see the low spots.

Back side ready

Any good plastic body filler will work here

Now dab some out of the can.

add the hardener. I used a little more than normal as it's only around 60F at time of application. The more you use the faster it will cure.

Mix thoroughly

When spreading the Bondo make sure you really squeeze it into the metal to maximize adhesion.

Once dry I block sanded it down with 80 grit.

Here I left it a little "high" then switched to 180 grit to smooth out the 80 grit scratches and smooth it out

Once done wipe down with WGR.

ready for primer

I will use the primer filler here to fill the 180 grit sanding scratches.

1st coat

Side panel will also need primer filler since it has a textured finish. here I sanded it smooth with 220 grit then finished with my scuff pad.

and here

Once sanded wipe with WGR and let dry

Here it is with the 4th coat of primer. Make sure you let each coat to dry 5-10 min. I will let this sit overnight before I sand it. Remember primer fillers have to be sanded before top coat.



More to come.




* This Worklog post was generated using WorklogCreator - Version: 1.0.1.7
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Edited by FannBlade - 8/3/11 at 3:37pm
    
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post #2 of 133
Thread Starter 
Day 2

First we need smooth out the primer filler we sprayed yesterday. Take some 400grit and some water and wet sand everything smooth, don't worry to much about going through the primer as will prime it again later. Main thing is to get it smooth.

Wet sanding in progress

Here you can see how smooth it is.



If your case has a smooth finish this where you will need to start. This is all I will use until final coat of clear.


Now take your scuff pad and thoroughly scratch the surface.

Here you can see the scuffed surface.

Now wipe down with wax and grease remover.

Once it's dry take your tack rag and go over all surfaces. Make sure you wipe lightly so you don't transfer any of the sticky stuff on to the surface.

Just a tack'in

Top of case sanded

Now it's time to spray the non-sanding primer sealer.

Here is the first coat sprayed lightly.

This is the second and final coat. All we want to do is give the paint an even surface.

All done now let dry about 30 min.

Once dry we need to tack everything again.

Ahh finally time for some color. Here I will use black. First coat shown here.

Now for last 2 coats. I laid a double wet coat here by spraying one medium coat followed by another coat sprayed 90 deg. from the other.

Once it has dried 30 min. I'll sprayed a double wet coat of clear.

Here are some shots couple hours later.



Whew looks like a mirror.





* This Worklog post was generated using WorklogCreator - Version: 1.0.1.7
* Free Download: http://www.mod2software.com/worklogc...logcreator.zip
Edited by FannBlade - 12/20/10 at 9:47pm
    
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post #3 of 133
Thread Starter 
Here is a CM Sniper I painted a few months ago. This is actually the one in the "I need a new case" giveaway contest.

Alright lets get the things we need gathered up.


Here is a plastic part ready to be sanded.


Ok now take the 3M scuff pad and scuff all areas. As you can see I folded pad over to scuff some tight areas in the grill. Make sure you get all areas especially the tight edges.



Once all surfaces to be painted are prepped wipe down with Wax & Grease Remover (WGR).
I usually wipe everything down when finished, then I will wipe parts down again right before paint.


Now to prep the case. Nice thing about the sniper all pieces just snap off case allowing you to just paint everything separate with no masking.
Ready for prep:


As you can see here I opted to leave to drive holders in place so nothing got broken or lost. If you take your time here no one will be the wiser.


Now repeat with scuff pad and wipe everything with WGR. (the 2 side panel shown here are off a HAF932)


Once all parts are ready re-wipe everything with WGR and use your tack rag and lightly wipe ALL areas to be painted. This will remove all traces of dust left on the surface.
On smooth surfaces like shown here I always use a non-sanding primer sealer. The sealers are more of an enamel base and dry a little slower allowing for a smoother finish and offer excellent adhesion. The nice thing is you can go straight to paint. If you do choose to use regular primers like a primer surfacer it HAS to be sanded or scuffed before paint. I see alot of posts on here where members recommend priming and just paint. This is where loss of intercoat adhesion will occur. (ever hear others talking about how easy their paint chips?)
Regular primer surfacers also will not flow out so surface will also be a little rough. Smoother the primer smoother the finish. Skimp on prep here and it will require a ton of work to re-sand and start over. PREP IS EVERYTHING!
You can see here how the non-sanding primer flows out to almost a gloss finish.




Follow can label for dry times and recoat window. What I'm using here is usally ready for paint in around 30 min,but if left over 24 hrs it will require re-sanding and re-spraying. Be sure you allow yourself enough time to complete without a re-sand.
Take your tack rag when dry to the touch and rewipe all surfaces. It's finally ready for paint.
Here I will just use a black basecoat with no clear. It dries very fast and has a nice semi gloss sheen. When spraying make sure its wet enough to allow for good adhesion. If sprayed dry it will have less of a chance to "flow" into the undercoat and could peel or chip easily.
Now sit back and admire your work! Tomorrow you can start the assembly process! (yes walk away and let it dry overnight)





Now for the exterior. If you unfortunate enough to have a Sniper or another case with textured surface it will need to be sanded smooth, unless you like the look you can just scuff and seal. For whatever reason the the Sniper has a texture on the side panels only so I will sand them smooth and prime using a surfacer then re-sand before non-sanding sealer.
Yes I'm lazy so I will use an air sander with 220 grit to smooth out surface. For hand sanding I would just use 320 grit wet-dry paper. Wet sand surface dipping your paper in a pan of water keeping it wet, that will keep paper from clogging up and speed up the process. When finished rinse with running water if possible. When dry wipe down with WGR and tack off. Apply a primer surfacer let dry and sand smooth again with 320 wet, dry and repeat with WGR and and tack rag.
Now it's ready for non-sanding primer.




Sealer applied to all of the exterior surfaces.



Now for this project I will apply a black basecoat.
Just repeat all the prep steps. When sealer is ready tack off surface and apply paint.
If you want you can just use the semi-gloss you used on the interior. Make sure you apply black wet enough that it will flow into the primer, if it's applied dry you won't get a good intercoat adhesion and it could chip or peel later.
Once base is dry to touch tack off again and apply 2-3 coats of gloss clear. For me my #1 rule is to never apply final clear on an un-sanded surface. So on that note let everything dry overnight.
The next day wet sand everything with 600 grit being very careful not to sand through the clear, wipe dry occasionally to see the progress, you want to it smooth free of orange peel and dust nibs.
Rinse and wipe dry (keep those gloves on) now gently wipe with WGR try not to get it to wet so the WGR doesn't soften or attack surface and tack off.
Now apply 2 more coats of clear wet on wet another words go back as soon as first coat is done this will help maintain a wet edge and allow clear to flow a little more remember in this step what you see is what you get. So watch for "dry" areas when painting.
If you are unhappy with something just let dry 24 hrs and repeat clear coat.




I will touch on what it took to finish this project. From here on out I will be using House of Kolors paints, they are expensive high end paints.

After black base I sprayed on an mid-coat clear to protect the black.


When it was dry I scuffed surface smooth.


Then applied a silver base coat and clear.


I didn't get any pics taped, but as you can see I did a shadow outline and "brackets" to resemble a metal edge with rivets. Yes more inter-coat clear.




Real quick here are some pics before final clear. Panels and rivets all airbrushed in along with gears and true fire flames. Blue was achieved using a white pearl over black then covered with electric blue candy, then sprayed yet another inter-coat clear let dry wet sanded with 600grit and applied two coats of urethane clear.







Auto paint examples.












Edited by FannBlade - 12/20/10 at 7:55pm
    
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post #4 of 133
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post #5 of 133
+rep I'm going to start a custom paint job when I get my new case, So this tutorial will help out allot!
post #6 of 133
You can really use the old paint as a base? What if it has those tiny lumps/bubbles?
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post #7 of 133
+reps
this should be stickied
post #8 of 133
Quote:
Originally Posted by B!0HaZard View Post
You can really use the old paint as a base? What if it has those tiny lumps/bubbles?
As long as you feather it out you should be fine. It's usually pretty thin and is easily sanded out.
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post #9 of 133
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by B!0HaZard View Post
You can really use the old paint as a base? What if it has those tiny lumps/bubbles?
Yes Factory applied finishes are going to be prepped better than you could do at home so it makes an excellent base.

If it has the textured finish like the Sniper side panels and you are after a smooth finish you will need to sand smooth with 320-400. Then spray with the primer surfacer and lightly sand smooth. I will also cover this in the pic tutorial.

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post #10 of 133
Cant Wait to see your auto paint section, I would divide it into 2 sections at least and as the lower VOC water paints are becoming pretty popular and PPG is still king for quality.
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