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How to Paint - Page 5

post #41 of 133
I usually let it bake @ 200 for 30 min. It would make sense to cook it a little lower for longer as you could probably achieve the same effect.
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post #42 of 133
Quote:
Originally Posted by cook View Post
I usually let it bake @ 200 for 30 min. It would make sense to cook it a little lower for longer as you could probably achieve the same effect.
well your really not suppose to bake it that hot. you risk thinner pop. it is where you end up with a bunch of little bubbles in the clear coat. the max recommended baking temp for the paint i use is 160*F but they recommend not going over 140 if possible. although i don't use rattle cans very often and do not know what the safe temp is for it, i can imagine it being about the same.
post #43 of 133
Thread Starter 
OP update on problems with Dupli-Color paints.
    
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post #44 of 133
yea ive always used duplicolor, good canned paint. I have never had problems with the clear coat though....
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post #45 of 133
I'm planning on painting my NZXT Zero 2 and adding some cable management options to the the case. I completely disassembled it today and will be starting the process tomorrow. This is a very good guide and I will be using it. Thank you!
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post #46 of 133
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Good to hear love to see a pic when done.
    
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post #47 of 133
I was bouncing around ideas on what to do to the back panel of the HAF 932 (The boxed and bezeled X, since you are familiar with the case.)

Did you use stencils to airbrush the gear effects into your Sniper case? I'm fascinated by watch movements and thought of doing something similar, only in one or two tones.

I have no airbrushing experience nor the desire to spend a ton of money trying to learn. (Read: on a budget) I was thinking of making elaborate stencils for each tone, taping them on, and then clear coating everything to remove tape lines. Would this work?

If you could share any inspiration pieces you used to map out your gear work I would love to see them. It's hard to find much with my amateur google-fu.
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post #48 of 133
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geofram View Post
I was bouncing around ideas on what to do to the back panel of the HAF 932 (The boxed and bezeled X, since you are familiar with the case.)

Did you use stencils to airbrush the gear effects into your Sniper case? I'm fascinated by watch movements and thought of doing something similar, only in one or two tones.

I have no airbrushing experience nor the desire to spend a ton of money trying to learn. (Read: on a budget) I was thinking of making elaborate stencils for each tone, taping them on, and then clear coating everything to remove tape lines. Would this work?

If you could share any inspiration pieces you used to map out your gear work I would love to see them. It's hard to find much with my amateur google-fu.
First off thanks for the props.
Second I'm also an amateur with an airbrush. I does help I have years of custom paint experience. So i don't need to think much about actually painting.
Yes I did use a template for the gears as well as the true fire flames I did the metal panels with a 3 x 5 card and just fogged the edges. Then used paper hole reinforcements to do the rivets.



So as you can see just get creative with your templates. You can also get some frisket film for your local art store to cut out your own.
If you use the template you will want to put down the color you want the gears first then tape down the template and spray the background color.
Make sure you spray 90 degrees to the template to help paint from blowing under the edges. use VERY light coats to help prevent edge build up. Use gloves that way you can hold down template where you are spraying.
If you are using spray cans you could get creative by spraying some paint in the cap and use toothpicks,Q-tips or small paint brush to draw lines and do some highlighting.
Also here is my newest airbrush Grex Tritium if you want to attempt airbrushing you can by one very cheap like this one just be prepared for some frustrations as it may not spray very even, but a cheap way to see if it's for you.
I really wish I was more artistic like some of these guys even after tons of practice I still have alot to learn.
SO go for it practice makes "better than before"

If you need anymore specific help let me know, I could talk about paint all day!

Edited by FannBlade - 2/8/11 at 11:48am
    
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post #49 of 133
So with something like the masking film I could cover the area I wanted to paint, then use a exacto-knife to cut out what I want painted with any sort of stencil (cardstock, pre-fabricated, etc) I had.

Then I could just spraypaint/airbrush it. (Several light coats > fewer heavy coats?) Then I could possibly layer more masking film or tape over it to create a second stencil guide for a different coloured layer?

Finally I clearcoat the whole thing? Can I use something to keep the matte finish the HAF 932 has?

Thinks for that stencil link, I may not purchase as it would be a one time use, but it is great inspiration.
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post #50 of 133
Thread Starter 

Exactly. The friskit film has a backing so would be best to cut design first then peel off backing and apply that way you don't cut into the surface.
Always use light coats especially the first couple so it doesn't bleed under masking.
No sure the brand paint but look for something like this.

Be sure to do a test panel to make sure paint(s) are compatible. If you look at the OP you'll see Dupli-Color doesn't do well over fully dried base coats.
Also I would use flat or semi-gloss colors that way intercoat adhesion will be alot better.
    
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