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post #10501 of 15187
Quote:
Originally Posted by k.3nny View Post

facebook me smile.gif
Kenneth Machielsen

just added you! Im jorge ortiz
post #10502 of 15187
Ok! I need the help of the phantom community, I want a name for my build and I was leaning towards (Phantom 24K) as in 24 karrot gold.

I'm excepting comments and build names !
post #10503 of 15187
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundWorks3D View Post

Ok! I need the help of the phantom community, I want a name for my build and I was leaning towards (Phantom 24K) as in 24 karrot gold.
I'm excepting comments and build names !


Other way around 24k Phantom thumbsupsmiley.png

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post #10504 of 15187

Hey K.3nny may I add you I already have omen on there

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Nightmare
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Intel i5 3570K Maximus V Formula Z77 AMD Radeon 6990 G.SKILL Ripjaw X 8gigs 
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WD Black 640gig ASUS DRW-24B1ST XSPC Raystorm CPU Block, 2 EX 240 Rads, Koolanc... Win 7 Home Premium 
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post #10505 of 15187

So now that the new GTX 680 is out I just need to wait and see what Intel's new i5 and new Asus RoG Z77 board is priced at and I will have a new rig thumbsupsmiley.png

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post #10506 of 15187
Quote:
Originally Posted by reaver83 View Post


the only reason I said 1 REALLY thin layer of clear is it will give it that always wet look, without making it glossy. Also, I suggested a clear cause after a few months of air touching the primer it will start to dry out and turn grey, and will show everywhere he paused while painting it. Primer NEVER wears evenly. I would show you what I mean with pics of my bumper of my car, but i don't have any that look even remotely decent, mostly of the damage to it.

Just be careful if you try to lay clear onto primer, it's not naturally made to bond.

Paint is made to bond to primer
Clear is made to bond to paint

I'm sure it will coat but im not sure how much it will bond to it. I would test it out on something as you might have a clear coat that will wanna flake off.
     
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post #10507 of 15187
Hey fellow Phantom Owners found this on the net, For those of you that are hesitant on painting plastic. For years and still now I still fear the chipped paint on plastic, So I hope this helps you guys in future reference on painting plastic !

Credit for this goes to GUTSI down at the DSM tuner forums.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-exterior-interior/365304-absolute-proper-way-paint-plastic-vinyl-interior-diyer.html

Here it is guys! hope it helps! thumb.gif
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I've noticed there's quite a number of posts out there with regards to painting the interior pieces (some of have even gone as far as changing the whole interior color outright i.e from that boring grey to that nice black we all lust after!) But there are those who are weary of painting interior pieces due to fear of fading, cracking, peeling etc...

I'm here to alleviate that fear smile.gif

I'm going to outline step by step, the PERFECT way to paint any plastic interior piece, without the risk of flaking, chipping, fading etc..(may also apply to exterior pieces e.g lip, mouldings etc...)
This is a simple, fool proof process that I myself have used many many yrs ago on a Grand Am I used to drive, when I decided I couldnt stand that beige vomit color interior anymore! I painted it a 'specklestone' texture (hella cool back in those days), and anyone who ever entered the car was always 'touchy feely' with my dash and doors (because it had that 'texture'). The finish was never compromised, no matter how many times people "caressed" it. The 'speckle' coating wasn't attempted by many (usually it was left for detail shops to do) only because of its sensitive nature to flake and chip. Well mine didnt, and if my method worked on touch sensitive "specklestone", it'll definately work for regular flat based spray paints.
There's absolutely no reason why a flat based spray painted interior should peel or flake IF the task was handled correctly and delicately!
*Note* Unfortunately, although I was proud of my results and would love to show it off, I cant find the pics I took waaay back then...HOWEVER, I am going to be painting some interior/exterior pieces in my 2G soon. There's some interior pieces that I'd like to accent in Black; as well, I'm hoping to fab up some microsuede inserts for the doors and a carbon fiber overlay for the radio/hvac bezel.
All in due time....and I promise I'll post pics to follow ;-)

Here Goes....

***Before we start, it is imperative that the steps are followed to the tee!! More often than not, I've seen painted "handywork" that looked like ass only because people tend to rush when painting. They just wanna get it painted so they can throw it back on. This is a no-no....if you want a flawless job, time is crucial.
*FYI* In terms of product quality, I've had great success with SEM. Hands down, their prep and application products are awesome! You can use others, but IMO, the SEM stuff proved to be the best. (And believe me, I've tried em all...Krylon, Tremclad, Duplicolor etc...)
Also, try to paint (and keep the paint cans) in optimal temps i.e room temp or above
**Prep Items**
-plastic precleaner- (if you cant find this, rubbing alcohol, or mineral spirits works fine. Also, only use a degreaser on pieces that are extremely dirty, greasy, oily or have been treated with protectants i.e armor all and such. After degreasing, then clean them with plastic precleaner or rubbing alcohol, as the degreaser tends to leave behind a residue that obscures bonding)
-wet sandpaper- 800 grit (for plastic) and 1500 grit (for vinyl)
-tape- (in case you need to mask certain areas)
**Spray Items**
-paint- (if it's plastic, buy plastic paint. If vinyl, make sure its vinyl paint, only because that paint contains certain elements that adhere better due to vinyl's flex properties)
Also, up to you whether you want a matte or glossy finish. Most paints also come in satin. IMO, satin works best as it is a matte finish with a nice sheen to it. Usually the paint cap gives a good indication of the type of finish.
-primer- (any indoor/outdoor plastic primer will do)
-adhesion promoter- (comes in an aerosol)
-clear coat- (again, comes in glossy or satin finish. Go satin. Unless there's a particular piece you wanna blind your passengers with)

Step 1 Remove any pieces to be painted (pretty obvious...just makes it easier to clean and paint; and if you can, have the piece sit on something so its above ground. If its suspended, you can get a nice even spray all around, top to bottom)

Step 2 Wash the pieces thoroughly in soap and water. If extra dirty, oily or greasy, use a degreaser (brake cleaner will work). Dry everything nicely, and finally rub em down with the plastic precleaner (or rubbing alcohol) Final dry with a clean cloth.

Step 3 *Important* If it's plastic, you're going to LIGHTLY sand the pieces with 800 grit wet sandpaper. Make sure that both the piece and the sandpaper are constantly wet. Use no force or pressure, let the wet sandpaper do the work. Use circular motions, varying the circles over the entire surface of the piece. KEEP EM WET! AND NO PRESSURE! This is key to a good wet sand. Also, keep the sandpaper clean from plastic build-up; that build-up can and will scratch the surface. A good idea is to wrap the wet sandpaper over a piece of foam or sponge, that way you dont exert too much hand pressure, and it'll sand over contoured areas nicely! But if you're like me, and you wanna "feel" your work, then using your bare hand is fine too, just KEEP IT WET, CLEAN, AND NO PRESSURE!
Rinse the piece when finished....dry thoroughly.
*Note* For vinyl, same process, but use 1500 grit. You'll find there's vinyl on the door, armrest, dash.

Step 4 Apply the adhesion promoter, but first, SHAKE THE CAN! If the label says to shake for a minute, you better damn well do it! You want the adhesive chemical solvents in the can to be nicely blended so you get a nice uniform coat, just waiting to be primed! Apply it the same way you would paint: light, even, side to side coat. With the adhesion promoter, one coat is sufficient. Be carefeul here, because one too many coats, and this stuff will gunk up on the surface. Allow it dry
*Note* Depending on the brand of adhesion promoter you buy, its a good idea to follow the 'drying' guideline on the can before the next step. Some cans will say after 30 min it's dry...others maybe 90. Follow the can!

Step 5 *Important* Apply the primer, but first, SHAKE THAT SUCKER UP! Again, same concept, you want the paint pigments nicely blended for uniform quality. Shake before, and during. Spray one, nice LIGHT coat (And I mean light! Dont go crazy!) Wait about an hour....spray the 2nd nice LIGHT coat. Two coats should suffice here. If you still need more coverage (you shouldn't...but hey), wait about another hour, spray a 3rd, LIGHT coat.
AFTER YOUR LAST COAT OF PRIMER, WAIT AT LEAST 24 HOURS BEFORE PAINTING!
I'm being anal about light coats and waiting 24 hours? You bet! The better the primer adheres to the surface, the better the paint will adhere to the primer.
*Note* In between coats, its a very good idea to turn the can upside down and spray until clear gas comes out. WHY? Well the can will tell you it's so the nozzle wont clog, however, the more important concept for this is that now when you go to spray coat #2, there might be dried paint obstructing the nozzle pathway, hence creating a "splurting and sputtering" of paint, thereby ruining that nice uniform smooth finish you obtained from coat #1.

Step 6 You waited 24 hours right? Time to paint! But guess what? SHAKE THAT DAMN CAN! Shake it while you paint! Same concept: nice, LIGHT side to side motion. We're gonna add 3 coats here, and it's this step that makes it or "flakes" it for the paint. After your 1st coat, I recommend at least an hour...if you can wait more, even better. With the base coat, ample drying time is crucial. Also, your method in applying the paint ultimately affects the end result. So again, 3 coats....wait a good while between coats...and keep em LIGHT! AND...between coats, invert can and spray!
WAIT 24- 48 HOURS BEFORE APPLYING CLEAR COAT

Step 7 Clear coat time. You're shaking the can right? With the clear, 2-3 coats should suffice. Same concept as above...nice, uniform and LIGHT coats! With the clear, you dont have to wait as long, about half hour or so is good. As long as you keep the coats LIGHT. Let everything cure for an additional 24 hours before handling and putting back in the car.

**Additional notes**
With the freshly painted surfaces, I wouldn't use any cleaners on em for at least a week or two. As a matter of fact, I wouldn't use cleaners on them period! Reason being is most dash cleaners contain alcohol based solvents such as n-propoxypropanol, propylene glycol ether (for glass) and isopropanol. Most will contain 2 out of 3 alcohol based solvents, which if used on occassion, can deteriorate the clear coat, eventually leading to paint fade.
Good ol fashion soap and water will do...unless there's a stubborn stain that needs removing. If you gotta use cleaners, you should ABSOLUTELY protect the surface with a protectant after.
You should be using a protectant anyway, as most contain the UV inhibitors to prevent fade.
A good thing to look for is protectants that contain lanolin and natural moisturizers...and if not, then water based silicone is fine too.

Keep in mind that the pieces you chose to paint are just that...PAINTED! Extra care is required for these pieces, unlike the factory ones which are dyed (and even those can fade)

So in the end, practice good "carkeeping". Hope this article helps with anyone's interior transformations!

Edited by SoundWorks3D - 3/22/12 at 11:14am
post #10508 of 15187
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundWorks3D View Post

Hey fellow Phantom Owners found this on the net, For those of you that are hesitant on painting plastic. For years and still now I still fear the chipped paint on plastic, So I hope this helps you guys in future reference on painting plastic !
Credit for this goes to GUTSI down at the DSM tuner forums. link

Here it is guys! hope it helps! thumb.gifWarning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I've noticed there's quite a number of posts out there with regards to painting the interior pieces (some of have even gone as far as changing the whole interior color outright i.e from that boring grey to that nice black we all lust after!) But there are those who are weary of painting interior pieces due to fear of fading, cracking, peeling etc...
I'm here to alleviate that fear smile.gif
I'm going to outline step by step, the PERFECT way to paint any plastic interior piece, without the risk of flaking, chipping, fading etc..(may also apply to exterior pieces e.g lip, mouldings etc...)
This is a simple, fool proof process that I myself have used many many yrs ago on a Grand Am I used to drive, when I decided I couldnt stand that beige vomit color interior anymore! I painted it a 'specklestone' texture (hella cool back in those days), and anyone who ever entered the car was always 'touchy feely' with my dash and doors (because it had that 'texture'). The finish was never compromised, no matter how many times people "caressed" it. The 'speckle' coating wasn't attempted by many (usually it was left for detail shops to do) only because of its sensitive nature to flake and chip. Well mine didnt, and if my method worked on touch sensitive "specklestone", it'll definately work for regular flat based spray paints.
There's absolutely no reason why a flat based spray painted interior should peel or flake IF the task was handled correctly and delicately!
*Note* Unfortunately, although I was proud of my results and would love to show it off, I cant find the pics I took waaay back then...HOWEVER, I am going to be painting some interior/exterior pieces in my 2G soon. There's some interior pieces that I'd like to accent in Black; as well, I'm hoping to fab up some microsuede inserts for the doors and a carbon fiber overlay for the radio/hvac bezel.
All in due time....and I promise I'll post pics to follow ;-)
Here Goes....
***Before we start, it is imperative that the steps are followed to the tee!! More often than not, I've seen painted "handywork" that looked like ass only because people tend to rush when painting. They just wanna get it painted so they can throw it back on. This is a no-no....if you want a flawless job, time is crucial.
*FYI* In terms of product quality, I've had great success with SEM. Hands down, their prep and application products are awesome! You can use others, but IMO, the SEM stuff proved to be the best. (And believe me, I've tried em all...Krylon, Tremclad, Duplicolor etc...)
Also, try to paint (and keep the paint cans) in optimal temps i.e room temp or above
**Prep Items**
-plastic precleaner- (if you cant find this, rubbing alcohol, or mineral spirits works fine. Also, only use a degreaser on pieces that are extremely dirty, greasy, oily or have been treated with protectants i.e armor all and such. After degreasing, then clean them with plastic precleaner or rubbing alcohol, as the degreaser tends to leave behind a residue that obscures bonding)
-wet sandpaper- 800 grit (for plastic) and 1500 grit (for vinyl)
-tape- (in case you need to mask certain areas)
**Spray Items**
-paint- (if it's plastic, buy plastic paint. If vinyl, make sure its vinyl paint, only because that paint contains certain elements that adhere better due to vinyl's flex properties)
Also, up to you whether you want a matte or glossy finish. Most paints also come in satin. IMO, satin works best as it is a matte finish with a nice sheen to it. Usually the paint cap gives a good indication of the type of finish.
-primer- (any indoor/outdoor plastic primer will do)
-adhesion promoter- (comes in an aerosol)
-clear coat- (again, comes in glossy or satin finish. Go satin. Unless there's a particular piece you wanna blind your passengers with)
Step 1 Remove any pieces to be painted (pretty obvious...just makes it easier to clean and paint; and if you can, have the piece sit on something so its above ground. If its suspended, you can get a nice even spray all around, top to bottom)
Step 2 Wash the pieces thoroughly in soap and water. If extra dirty, oily or greasy, use a degreaser (brake cleaner will work). Dry everything nicely, and finally rub em down with the plastic precleaner (or rubbing alcohol) Final dry with a clean cloth.
Step 3 *Important* If it's plastic, you're going to LIGHTLY sand the pieces with 800 grit wet sandpaper. Make sure that both the piece and the sandpaper are constantly wet. Use no force or pressure, let the wet sandpaper do the work. Use circular motions, varying the circles over the entire surface of the piece. KEEP EM WET! AND NO PRESSURE! This is key to a good wet sand. Also, keep the sandpaper clean from plastic build-up; that build-up can and will scratch the surface. A good idea is to wrap the wet sandpaper over a piece of foam or sponge, that way you dont exert too much hand pressure, and it'll sand over contoured areas nicely! But if you're like me, and you wanna "feel" your work, then using your bare hand is fine too, just KEEP IT WET, CLEAN, AND NO PRESSURE!
Rinse the piece when finished....dry thoroughly.
*Note* For vinyl, same process, but use 1500 grit. You'll find there's vinyl on the door, armrest, dash.
Step 4 Apply the adhesion promoter, but first, SHAKE THE CAN! If the label says to shake for a minute, you better damn well do it! You want the adhesive chemical solvents in the can to be nicely blended so you get a nice uniform coat, just waiting to be primed! Apply it the same way you would paint: light, even, side to side coat. With the adhesion promoter, one coat is sufficient. Be carefeul here, because one too many coats, and this stuff will gunk up on the surface. Allow it dry
*Note* Depending on the brand of adhesion promoter you buy, its a good idea to follow the 'drying' guideline on the can before the next step. Some cans will say after 30 min it's dry...others maybe 90. Follow the can!
Step 5 *Important* Apply the primer, but first, SHAKE THAT SUCKER UP! Again, same concept, you want the paint pigments nicely blended for uniform quality. Shake before, and during. Spray one, nice LIGHT coat (And I mean light! Dont go crazy!) Wait about an hour....spray the 2nd nice LIGHT coat. Two coats should suffice here. If you still need more coverage (you shouldn't...but hey), wait about another hour, spray a 3rd, LIGHT coat.
AFTER YOUR LAST COAT OF PRIMER, WAIT AT LEAST 24 HOURS BEFORE PAINTING!
I'm being anal about light coats and waiting 24 hours? You bet! The better the primer adheres to the surface, the better the paint will adhere to the primer.
*Note* In between coats, its a very good idea to turn the can upside down and spray until clear gas comes out. WHY? Well the can will tell you it's so the nozzle wont clog, however, the more important concept for this is that now when you go to spray coat #2, there might be dried paint obstructing the nozzle pathway, hence creating a "splurting and sputtering" of paint, thereby ruining that nice uniform smooth finish you obtained from coat #1.
Step 6 You waited 24 hours right? Time to paint! But guess what? SHAKE THAT DAMN CAN! Shake it while you paint! Same concept: nice, LIGHT side to side motion. We're gonna add 3 coats here, and it's this step that makes it or "flakes" it for the paint. After your 1st coat, I recommend at least an hour...if you can wait more, even better. With the base coat, ample drying time is crucial. Also, your method in applying the paint ultimately affects the end result. So again, 3 coats....wait a good while between coats...and keep em LIGHT! AND...between coats, invert can and spray!
WAIT 24- 48 HOURS BEFORE APPLYING CLEAR COAT
Step 7 Clear coat time. You're shaking the can right? With the clear, 2-3 coats should suffice. Same concept as above...nice, uniform and LIGHT coats! With the clear, you dont have to wait as long, about half hour or so is good. As long as you keep the coats LIGHT. Let everything cure for an additional 24 hours before handling and putting back in the car.
**Additional notes**
With the freshly painted surfaces, I wouldn't use any cleaners on em for at least a week or two. As a matter of fact, I wouldn't use cleaners on them period! Reason being is most dash cleaners contain alcohol based solvents such as n-propoxypropanol, propylene glycol ether (for glass) and isopropanol. Most will contain 2 out of 3 alcohol based solvents, which if used on occassion, can deteriorate the clear coat, eventually leading to paint fade.
Good ol fashion soap and water will do...unless there's a stubborn stain that needs removing. If you gotta use cleaners, you should ABSOLUTELY protect the surface with a protectant after.
You should be using a protectant anyway, as most contain the UV inhibitors to prevent fade.
A good thing to look for is protectants that contain lanolin and natural moisturizers...and if not, then water based silicone is fine too.
Keep in mind that the pieces you chose to paint are just that...PAINTED! Extra care is required for these pieces, unlike the factory ones which are dyed (and even those can fade)
So in the end, practice good "carkeeping". Hope this article helps with anyone's interior transformations!

Errr... This is nice information, but two things.

1) There was no link. I fixed that in my quote.
2) This is better linked and not copy pasted.

If you do want to copy paste, at least wrap it in spoiler tags to shrink it down a bit.

Otherwise, good find!
Behemoth 2.0
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Behemoth 2.0
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SAMSUNG EcoGreen F4 HD204UI 2TB 32MB Cache  LG Black 12X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM SATA... Swiftech MCP655 Black Ice GT Stealth 420 Radiator 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
XSPC RayStorm High Performance Acetal CPU Liqui... EK-MultiOption RES X3 150 Bitspower Galaxy DIMM4 RAM Liquid Cooling Block Bitspower Galaxy DIMM4 RAM Liquid Cooling Block 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
EK ASUS Rampage IV Extreme Full Board Cooling B... Windows 7 Professional Edition Optoma HD35 Logitech K750 
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post #10509 of 15187
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caruban View Post

Errr... This is nice information, but two things.
1) There was no link. I fixed that in my quote.
2) This is better linked and not copy pasted.
If you do want to copy paste, at least wrap it in spoiler tags to shrink it down a bit.
Otherwise, good find!

how do i make a spoiler?
post #10510 of 15187
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundWorks3D View Post

how do i make a spoiler?

Here's how you make a spoiler:
Code:
[spoiler=TITLE OF THE SPOILER]
LET'S SPOIL THE SPOILER :D
[/spoiler]
Things you want to see ;) (Click to show)
*empty*
testing xD
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hyp3
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Crucial M500 960GB Thermaltake Water 3.0 Performer C Dell S2216H Cooler Master Quick Fire Rapid-i Cherry MX Brown 
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