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[Official] NZXT PHANTOM Owner's Club - Page 1340

post #13391 of 15204
Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtuning View Post

@ Kevinsteel... I'm not trying to sound like a jerk but the spacing between the fans and radiator is going to make them very inefficient. alot of the air the fans are blowing will escape out the sides.

I'm not sure exactly what your talking about or whether it's true but I can't do any different or else I would've. I would love to have a custom made bracket but considering the hole loop was second hand due to a tight budget a bracket is out of the question. My temps are 54/52/52/54 with a 22° ambient under Prime95 after 12Hours with all my fans at the lowest possible speed. It's my first loop so I don't know if those temps for a stock i7-860 cooled by such a "massive" loop are normal but they sure are better than the 95+ °C my stock cooler was giving me.
Before having a bracket made, making one myself or simply getting the metal to do so will have to wait a while. First I want to add my current GPU to the loop or change it for another one and add it. Then get a temp sensor+display for ambient and water temps. Then I'll get a proper mobo and a new CPU. Then I'll make myself a window. Then I'll get proper rad fans instead of these ugly Noctuas. And finally comes getting a custom bracket for my top rad. (I might even go Acrylic tubing before the bracket)

Not trying to be condescending or anything but that's how it is unless getting a bracket would have a bigger impact than changing fans or anything else listed.
How much ° are we talking about anyway ? I'm sure it can't be that big of an issue.

(reminds me I still have to try unplugging some fans and eventually all of them and see how much my temps climb just for the sake of trying it).
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Crucial M4 64 Gig (7mm version) Custom Water Cooling, details in signature. Windows 8 Pro LG Flatron W2243S 21.5" 1080p 
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Razer Lycosa OCZ StealthXstream 2 700W Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 Razer Deathadder 3500dpi 
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OtherOtherOtherOther
EK Coolstream XTC 280mm + 2x D14SM-12 Yate Loon... EK Coolstream XTC 280mm + 4x Akasa Apache (push... Alphacool Cape Corp Coolplex 250ml reservoir 8/11mm ClearFlex60 tubing 
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post #13392 of 15204
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by steelkevin View Post

I'm not sure exactly what your talking about or whether it's true but I can't do any different or else I would've. I would love to have a custom made bracket but considering the hole loop was second hand due to a tight budget a bracket is out of the question. My temps are 54/52/52/54 with a 22° ambient under Prime95 after 12Hours with all my fans at the lowest possible speed. It's my first loop so I don't know if those temps for a stock i7-860 cooled by such a "massive" loop are normal but they sure are better than the 95+ °C my stock cooler was giving me.
Before having a bracket made, making one myself or simply getting the metal to do so will have to wait a while. First I want to add my current GPU to the loop or change it for another one and add it. Then get a temp sensor+display for ambient and water temps. Then I'll get a proper mobo and a new CPU. Then I'll make myself a window. Then I'll get proper rad fans instead of these ugly Noctuas. And finally comes getting a custom bracket for my top rad. (I might even go Acrylic tubing before the bracket)
Not trying to be condescending or anything but that's how it is unless getting a bracket would have a bigger impact than changing fans or anything else listed.
How much ° are we talking about anyway ? I'm sure it can't be that big of an issue.
(reminds me I still have to try unplugging some fans and eventually all of them and see how much my temps climb just for the sake of trying it).

I know your tools are limited, you and I had this discussion before. but can you feel air blowing out the sides? that could be blow through the radiator. how about some soft gasket material? probably pretty cheap at the local hardware store. its just a thought.
post #13393 of 15204
Thank you for trying to help, I really appreciate that, but as you can tell the whole loop is more of a "Beta" than anything else (except for the coolant which will be the final one everything else is temporary, might repaint the rads and keep them not sure yet). If I'd invested as much money as most of the other Water Coolers than sure I'd fix that. But I really can't see the point of it right now. It probably wouldn't change much, maybe not even 1 single °.

I could use your help and knowledge here though: http://www.overclock.net/t/1323936/unique-gtx-560-ti-disassembly-and-questions

As far as tools are concerned my dad having gone back to the UK almost a month ago I've got a couple new tools. I think the only electrical ones I have are a Drill and a Circular Saw. I don't think I'll be using that circular saw though xD. A good friend of mine will lend me his Dremel when the time to make a window comes though.
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Crucial M4 64 Gig (7mm version) Custom Water Cooling, details in signature. Windows 8 Pro LG Flatron W2243S 21.5" 1080p 
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EK Supreme HF CU Full copper EK-FC R9-290X - Nickel  MCP350 Alphacool DDC plexi top 
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EK Coolstream XTC 280mm + 2x D14SM-12 Yate Loon... EK Coolstream XTC 280mm + 4x Akasa Apache (push... Alphacool Cape Corp Coolplex 250ml reservoir 8/11mm ClearFlex60 tubing 
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post #13394 of 15204
Those temps are fair but you would get quite a few *C back by blocking the sides off. In a pinch you could even do it with tape or foam paper or anything. You can buy black foam paper at a craft store for $1 (buy a couple sheets), then cut it out to look like a fan frame and punch holes for the fan screws to go through. You'd probably have to diuble up the paper but I guarantee you'd get 3-5*C for $2...
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post #13395 of 15204
3-5° Oo ?

You do realize that I've got two identical rads. One that you're talking about with only push fans and another one at the bottom in push/pull. Which, unless the Noctua's have less than half the rad performance (static pressure ?) of the Yate Loons, means that the top rad is the less significant rad in my loop.
Actually even if it was my only rad I'd find that 3-5° increase by just blocking out the side of the fans very impressive.

WAIT, if what you're saying is right, would my Noctua fans be really inappropriate for a rad because of their shape/frame ? So If I got normal fans on there it'd make an even bigger difference than doing as suggested (by both of you, I just realized that Phelan took where Kgtuning left it but wasn't the one to start it xD). If I'm thinking well, those Noctua fans are losing way much air than the Yate Loons, and there is four of them instead of only two.

I'll do the test load temps without the Noctuas powered and then the Yates and then both at the same time tomorrow. If I don't increase the Noctuas speed when I boot my PC and then turn them back down to minimum they don't spin at all. And if I remember well from every time I forgot the temps didn't change at all. And if that's the case then my Noctuas perform close to nothing and I'd be better off trashing them (or at least selling them and getting either some more Yates or whatever I find).
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i7-860 @3800MHz P7P55D R9 290 @1150/1450MHz 2*4GB Hyper X Black @1600 MHz 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Crucial M4 64 Gig (7mm version) Custom Water Cooling, details in signature. Windows 8 Pro LG Flatron W2243S 21.5" 1080p 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Razer Lycosa OCZ StealthXstream 2 700W Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 Razer Deathadder 3500dpi 
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EK Supreme HF CU Full copper EK-FC R9-290X - Nickel  MCP350 Alphacool DDC plexi top 
OtherOtherOtherOther
EK Coolstream XTC 280mm + 2x D14SM-12 Yate Loon... EK Coolstream XTC 280mm + 4x Akasa Apache (push... Alphacool Cape Corp Coolplex 250ml reservoir 8/11mm ClearFlex60 tubing 
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i7-860 @3800MHz P7P55D R9 290 @1150/1450MHz 2*4GB Hyper X Black @1600 MHz 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Crucial M4 64 Gig (7mm version) Custom Water Cooling, details in signature. Windows 8 Pro LG Flatron W2243S 21.5" 1080p 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Razer Lycosa OCZ StealthXstream 2 700W Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 Razer Deathadder 3500dpi 
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EK Supreme HF CU Full copper EK-FC R9-290X - Nickel  MCP350 Alphacool DDC plexi top 
OtherOtherOtherOther
EK Coolstream XTC 280mm + 2x D14SM-12 Yate Loon... EK Coolstream XTC 280mm + 4x Akasa Apache (push... Alphacool Cape Corp Coolplex 250ml reservoir 8/11mm ClearFlex60 tubing 
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post #13396 of 15204
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by steelkevin View Post

3-5° Oo ?
You do realize that I've got two identical rads. One that you're talking about with only push fans and another one at the bottom in push/pull. Which, unless the Noctua's have less than half the rad performance (static pressure ?) of the Yate Loons, means that the top rad is the less significant rad in my loop.
Actually even if it was my only rad I'd find that 3-5° increase by just blocking out the side of the fans very impressive.
WAIT, if what you're saying is right, would my Noctua fans be really inappropriate for a rad because of their shape/frame ? So If I got normal fans on there it'd make an even bigger difference than doing as suggested (by both of you, I just realized that Phelan took where Kgtuning left it but wasn't the one to start it xD). If I'm thinking well, those Noctua fans are losing way much air than the Yate Loons, and there is four of them instead of only two.
I'll do the test load temps without the Noctuas powered and then the Yates and then both at the same time tomorrow. If I don't increase the Noctuas speed when I boot my PC and then turn them back down to minimum they don't spin at all. And if I remember well from every time I forgot the temps didn't change at all. And if that's the case then my Noctuas perform close to nothing and I'd be better off trashing them (or at least selling them and getting either some more Yates or whatever I find).

I love my Yates. a bit loud but i don't care. I still need to add the gasket material to my radiator. even dropping another 1-2c I would super happy. If it helps, it is so worth it. thumb.gif
post #13397 of 15204
Sorry, I edited my question because I found another thread that is more suitable for my question.
Edited by edsai - 11/5/12 at 2:04pm
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post #13398 of 15204
Quote:
Originally Posted by steelkevin View Post

3-5° Oo ?
You do realize that I've got two identical rads. One that you're talking about with only push fans and another one at the bottom in push/pull. Which, unless the Noctua's have less than half the rad performance (static pressure ?) of the Yate Loons, means that the top rad is the less significant rad in my loop.
Actually even if it was my only rad I'd find that 3-5° increase by just blocking out the side of the fans very impressive.
WAIT, if what you're saying is right, would my Noctua fans be really inappropriate for a rad because of their shape/frame ? So If I got normal fans on there it'd make an even bigger difference than doing as suggested (by both of you, I just realized that Phelan took where Kgtuning left it but wasn't the one to start it xD). If I'm thinking well, those Noctua fans are losing way much air than the Yate Loons, and there is four of them instead of only two.
I'll do the test load temps without the Noctuas powered and then the Yates and then both at the same time tomorrow. If I don't increase the Noctuas speed when I boot my PC and then turn them back down to minimum they don't spin at all. And if I remember well from every time I forgot the temps didn't change at all. And if that's the case then my Noctuas perform close to nothing and I'd be better off trashing them (or at least selling them and getting either some more Yates or whatever I find).

Yes, I've had this conversation with darlene not too long ago, and I can verify in my set up that what she said is correct.

Basically with any fan, if it's right up against the rad, you'll notice after a few days that the dust pattern on the back side is in a circle, the circle where your fan blades pull air on the other side. This means that the air is only moving through that circle's area, and all of the space around it is basically being cooled by ambient airflow (which, if you have a fan on both sides, is next to nothing). By backing the fan away and offsetting it, the blades can pull aid through the rest of the rad as well, resulting in better temps.

Hell, even a bunch of layers of cardboard (wrapped in tape so that air doesn't escape through the corrugation) would give you a boost, and I bet you already have that sort of stuff lying around...

...And if you don't, duct tape is an ever useful utility, worth purchasing for additional uses elsewhere. biggrin.gif
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post #13399 of 15204
I was looking around because there's no way I could sleep without understandimg what you guys were all trying to say.
I eventually found answers and understood what you lot were trying to say.

I then started looking for reviews on 140mm fans. Needless to say I was impressed by the amount of people totally ignoring OP and suggesting 120mm adaptors...
Anyway after an hour or so I thought about the Akasa Apache Blacl 140mm fans which I'd been discussing with a mate (akasa claim the apache has a static pressure of 2.7) and decided to check its price (again) a website gave me a list of FR retailers and prices, lowest being 15€. But I remember having seen it on one for 11 or 12€. All that lead up to me going to that retailer's site and checking the fan's price.
What a miracle ! There were 6 left @50% off.
So I snuck out of bed and took my little brother's laptop to order 4 of them. He put a password on it ! Tried my older brother's, same thing ! What the hell's with them and passwords ? They've got nothing to protect !
Anyway tried using my phone. Order failed for unknown reason. Tried again a minute or two later and same message showed up. Then I recieved an email confirming my order. So I still don't know how many I've ordered, hopefully only one order was registered. I'll see tomorrow if I've got a second email I guess...

So there's that. 6€ per fan. 5€ shipping (had forgot how cheap local shipping was, aquatuning charge me 10€ and others want 40...).
30€ for four Akasa Apache Black 140mm fans.
Problem solved for the bottom rad.
I bet I can swll the noctuas 5€ to locals in no time so that's 30-20€, 10€ to change my fans to proper ones.



Sorry about that off topic spam, I just needed to get tjat out before I could go to sleep wink.gif.
Good night everybody (3am already....)
Current rig
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i7-860 @3800MHz P7P55D R9 290 @1150/1450MHz 2*4GB Hyper X Black @1600 MHz 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Crucial M4 64 Gig (7mm version) Custom Water Cooling, details in signature. Windows 8 Pro LG Flatron W2243S 21.5" 1080p 
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Razer Lycosa OCZ StealthXstream 2 700W Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 Razer Deathadder 3500dpi 
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EK Supreme HF CU Full copper EK-FC R9-290X - Nickel  MCP350 Alphacool DDC plexi top 
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EK Coolstream XTC 280mm + 2x D14SM-12 Yate Loon... EK Coolstream XTC 280mm + 4x Akasa Apache (push... Alphacool Cape Corp Coolplex 250ml reservoir 8/11mm ClearFlex60 tubing 
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Current rig
(16 items)
 
   
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i7-860 @3800MHz P7P55D R9 290 @1150/1450MHz 2*4GB Hyper X Black @1600 MHz 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Crucial M4 64 Gig (7mm version) Custom Water Cooling, details in signature. Windows 8 Pro LG Flatron W2243S 21.5" 1080p 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Razer Lycosa OCZ StealthXstream 2 700W Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 Razer Deathadder 3500dpi 
Mouse PadAudioOtherOther
Razer Scarab Razer Carcharias V2 (X360/PC) Roccat Apuri mouse Bungee / usb hub Samsung HDD 7200 rpm 1To 
CPUGraphicsPowerOther
EK Supreme HF CU Full copper EK-FC R9-290X - Nickel  MCP350 Alphacool DDC plexi top 
OtherOtherOtherOther
EK Coolstream XTC 280mm + 2x D14SM-12 Yate Loon... EK Coolstream XTC 280mm + 4x Akasa Apache (push... Alphacool Cape Corp Coolplex 250ml reservoir 8/11mm ClearFlex60 tubing 
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post #13400 of 15204
So after some real thought, and coming out of a "what the hell was I thinking?!?!" moment, I decided not to part off my Phantom. I'll just keep it and get a 3rd screen tongue.gif.
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Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Computer Cases › [Official] NZXT PHANTOM Owner's Club