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post #13451 of 15204
Hello Guys..

Can anyone provide some info what tools i need to cut and mod my side panels. I have the turorials and all but a lot of ppl use different tools. Just wanted to know you opinions. If you payed someone instead can you provide me who did the job for you.

Thanks..
post #13452 of 15204
Quote:
Originally Posted by XeoMatrix View Post

Hello Guys..
Can anyone provide some info what tools i need to cut and mod my side panels. I have the turorials and all but a lot of ppl use different tools. Just wanted to know you opinions. If you payed someone instead can you provide me who did the job for you.
Thanks..

Just need a dremel and/or jigsaw. The dremel makes cutting anything pretty easy and the jigsaw makes long straight cuts go faster. thumb.gif
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post #13453 of 15204
Quote:
Originally Posted by intelman View Post

Just need a dremel and/or jigsaw. The dremel makes cutting anything pretty easy and the jigsaw makes long straight cuts go faster. thumb.gif

Any recommendations, what blades are good, dont want to bend the metal while cutting. smile.gif

Also anyone knows where to get the U cable and the Arcrilic .. Thanks
post #13454 of 15204
Quote:
Originally Posted by ranviper View Post

What did you use/do to get the matte effect?
I just primed it and used a matte black spray paint, nothing special.
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post #13455 of 15204
What is the best leds to match the blue light of the NZXT 200mm top fans. ?
post #13456 of 15204
Quote:
Originally Posted by XeoMatrix View Post

Any recommendations, what blades are good, dont want to bend the metal while cutting. smile.gif
Also anyone knows where to get the U cable and the Arcrilic .. Thanks

Dremels use cutting wheels like this

and I'm not sure of a specific blade on a jigsaw, I just went for it with the one I had haha. Shouldn't have bending issues from cutting. As for acrylic, you can get it at any hardware store (lowe's, etc) and if by u cable you mean u channel rubber, a lot of modding websites sell it. mnpctech/frozencpu/etc.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l1/g42/Window_Kits.html
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post #13457 of 15204
Quote:
Originally Posted by XeoMatrix View Post

Any recommendations, what blades are good, dont want to bend the metal while cutting. smile.gif
Also anyone knows where to get the U cable and the Arcrilic .. Thanks

For sheetmetal, you want a very fine toothed blade.

32 teeth per inch is a standard that works very well.

Acrylic needs 18 to 24 tpi, depending on thickness, 18 ish for 1/4" (~5mm) and finer, 24 for 1/8" (3mm).


Always get the best quality blades you can get, the few extra dollars spent will be worth it in better and more consistant results.

Once you use a blade for acrylic, do not use it for anything else, keep it dedicated to cutting acrylic.


For cutting on a side panel, get a roll of 2" masking or painters tape, and put down 2 layers covering your side panel to layout your design on and prevent scratching the paint with the jigsaw as you move it along.

Be aware also, that all acrylic is not created equal.

There is some material that looks just like acrylic, but is much softer and usually less rigid, and melts at a MUCH lower temperature.

The stuff you buy to replace glass in a storm door usually behaves like this, but maybe that's a tradeoff for more impact resillience.

This stuff is garbage for trying to fabricate with. When you cut it, even with the right tooling, the chips just fuse together into a glob instead of falling away free.

I've watched it fuse back together just behind the jigsaw blade, and you have to go back repeatedly to try to re-open the cut line.

Usually, it has plastic covering the surface rather than paper, like everyone is used to seeing on plexiglas for example. Though not all plastic covered acrylic sheet is bad, I always try to get paper covered, as I've had a problem with it..

If you buy from a home improvement store, like a Lowes or HD, buy the smallest piece you can, and do a test cutting first if it's not paper covered.

I've also see the crap stuff more often in the thinner 1/8" variety, but I have on occasion run across it in 1/4" thickness.



Hope that helped a bit,

Darlene
post #13458 of 15204
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitehair View Post

I just primed it and used a matte black spray paint, nothing special.

Word, you did well. Thanks mate.
post #13459 of 15204

that me i just need some cable managment
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post #13460 of 15204
To clear up anything and everything you ever need to know about working with plastics, read this, then PM me if you have any more questions.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1222200/completed-mass-effect-3-nzxt-switch-810-build-log-sponsored/200_100#post_16833545

I'd copy paste, but I think I did that in this thread once and I can't find it. I'd rather not clutter the thread with this wall of text too much.

Edit: clarifications.
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Once you use a blade for acrylic, do not use it for anything else, keep it dedicated to cutting acrylic.
This is incredibly important. Reread that. Done? Read it again.
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Be aware also, that all acrylic is not created equal.
This is true, but not quite in Darlene's context. Bad acrylic is MUCH more brittle than good acrylic, but not as bad as what Darlene was talking about after that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

There is some material that looks just like acrylic, but is much softer and usually less rigid, and melts at a MUCH lower temperature.
The stuff you buy to replace glass in a storm door usually behaves like this, but maybe that's a tradeoff for more impact resilience.
This is called polycarbonate. It's a completely different material. It does melt/deform with high heat (not in a hot computer kind of high heat, but I guess that would be a good indicator of if your cooling system is failing). It is bulletproof. It scratches easily. It's very durable, and you will have no issues with stress fractures.
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

This stuff is garbage for trying to fabricate with. When you cut it, even with the right tooling, the chips just fuse together into a glob instead of falling away free.
I've watched it fuse back together just behind the jigsaw blade, and you have to go back repeatedly to try to re-open the cut line.
A couple different things here. Acrylic tooling and Polycarbonate tooling are very different. Polycarbonate tooling is much more standard, and polycarbonate is WAY more forgiving to fabricate than acrylic. If you aren't careful or using the correct drill bits, acrylic can shatter. Polycarbonate cuts like butter. It can be cut at much lower speeds and with a wider variety of tools. If cut too quickly, the blobs do form and "close up" in the cut, but at that point, the plastic is flawed enough that a quick impact from your hand should cause everything to fall free the way you desire.
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Usually, it has plastic covering the surface rather than paper, like everyone is used to seeing on plexiglas for example. Though not all plastic covered acrylic sheet is bad, I always try to get paper covered, as I've had a problem with it..
The paper/plastic is there to protect the plastic from scratches during fabrication. Don't take this off until you're done machining. If you use a laser cutter or heat the edge too much, the plastic can fuse to the edgee. No worries. Run a razor blade at an 80deg angle across the edge/corner (where the paper and plastic are fused) and it will scrape away the thin attached layer between the two and come right off.
Edited by Caruban - 11/13/12 at 12:30pm
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