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post #3431 of 15204
would it be worth it to have a controller that can turn it off? atm I have a fan in the 5.25" bay area, not sure how one of those will fit
   
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post #3432 of 15204
Quote:
Originally Posted by dantheman68 View Post
I bet you would not notice a difference in heat at idle with the fans at lowest setting or completely off... and why do you not want it as an option? Most decent fan controllers allow you to turn the fans completely off. It saves the life of fans and allows for essentially silent idle temps when not doing heavy computing.

I have 2 KAZE 3000 fans in this case... they are loud (think vacuum cleaner) but as a trade off they move insane ammounts of air, turning them completely off during light computing makes sense, and with my previous case and 5.25" bay fan controller I could turn them off.

Looks like I will just have to make a 4 pin molex override switch so that I can turn the fans off... too bad I cant do it 1 fan at a time this way though
And what is the point of turning fans off? disconnect them, so damn easy. Nothing wrong at all with the supplied controller. "saves the life of the fans", most half decent ones have about a six year life span. I think you will find looking through this thread that most people seem to like leds in their fans that's why most have them actually running
Edited by moonmanas - 6/22/11 at 7:26pm
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post #3433 of 15204
yeah i think i guess its okay just as it is now, there's no point in turning it off. tempted to get a controller but there's not much point i guess
   
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post #3434 of 15204
awwww yeah... I came home to my second phantom and hale 850watt psu from nzxt them selves for my BD build... this is going to blow your minds, once its done.
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post #3435 of 15204
wait, why do you have 2 phantoms?
   
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post #3436 of 15204
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinesethunda View Post
wait, why do you have 2 phantoms?
you can never have enough phantoms
post #3437 of 15204
Quote:
Originally Posted by moonmanas View Post
And what is the point of turning fans off? disconnect them, so damn easy. Nothing wrong at all with the supplied controller. "saves the life of the fans", most half decent ones have about a six year life span. I think you will find looking through this thread that most people seem to like leds in their fans that's why most have them actually running
You cannot argue that flipping a switch or turning a knob is harder than opening a case and yanking a plug every time you want a fan off. or even if you run open air, simply yanking a plug.

Its more so from a noise point of view. I really can't complain too much, turning the fans off is just a nice feature that most decent add-on fan controllers have, and I would have liked to see here.

I actually like the LEDs too. What doesn't make sense is that there is one dedicated button on the back that turns off one LED.... it seems like they worked extra hard to not put in a fan controller that allows "Full" control of the fan... Every fan controller I had, if I didn't want the LED on I turned the fan off.

I am not really griping, I love the case, as far as the case I give it a 5/5... I am just assuming that I am not the only one with this concern and was wondering what most other people did. Personally I think I am going to wire up a switch that can turn off the fan controller itself, that way when I hit the switch, the lights on the controller will turn off as well as the fans, I just wont have individual control of the fans.
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post #3438 of 15204
There are a lot of questions, and some arguments, for how the fans should be placed in the Phantom. Read on if you are curious. Questions, comments and the indubitable arguments are greatly appreciated and accepted.

In order to figure out what the best fan setup for the phantom is, you have only to look at its design. When NZXT designed the case, it was with cooling properties in mind (which is why most of us chose this case). Each fan is placed in a certain area to suit a certain need and meet the dynamics of creating an “air duct” effect. Each person’s needs for cooling differ slightly but the concept of air movement and circulation remains relatively the same if you are using air cooling. For those who are water cooling the setup would be different.

The basics for air cooling are to try to get the air moving in a single direction while passing over or through what you are trying to cool. Once you start mixing up intake and exhaust, you cause certain areas in the case to cause a funnel effect where the air literally will become static and continue to increase in heat before it finally finds a way to exhaust itself. Many times, this air can reach temperatures in excess of 50C before it finally finds an escape route which could be right through the intake fan of your CPU cooler. In essence, you are trying to cool a hot CPU with warm air.

So how do you set up your fans for the best cooling properties? We’ll start with the front fan since that is a given. Set it as an intake; especially if that is where your HDDs are. The airflow here will hit the face of the HDDs and expand to the sides, bottom and top. It is not meant to provide air that will make it to your CPU or GPU because even if there are no HDDs for it to hit, it will hit the cage and do the same. The only variant here would be if you removed the HDD cages and the side fans (I’ll discuss the side fans in a minute). With the cages and side fans removed, the cool air then has the potential to reach your CPU and GPU.

120mm side fans…These serve two basic purposes and can be set a few ways depending on the number of drives you have installed. Remember, we are trying to go for maximum cooling here. So, given that fact, these should also be set as intake (Both of them). The first purpose is to redirect the air coming in from the front fan. As I said, when it hits the drive cage it then disperses in all directions. The 120mm fan toward the front then redirects the dispersed air to exhaust out the lower vent on the cable management side (Make sure there are no wires blocking this opening). The heat from the HDDs is expelled before it gets back to the area where the CPU is getting its air. The 120mm fan toward the rear provides the same cooling effect however, it is also providing an intake for cool air to reach the CPU, MB and GPU so it is best to not have HDDs here unless you have to because the front 5 are full.
Note: DO NOT put one as an intake and the other as an exhaust. This will cause a vortex effect where the warm air will circulate, increasing in temperature with each recycle.

The rear 120mm is located toward the top for a reason and should be set up as an exhaust fan. This fan also serves two purposes. First to cause a jet way of air that passes directly over the Memory and the CPU as well as the GPU due to the airflow from the giant vent directly in front of the GPU. Second, heat rises so it assists with expelling hot air rising from the GPUs beneath it and any additional case heat.

The Phantom comes standard with a 200mm top fan to exhaust (NOT INTAKE) the heat emanating from the whole system as heat rises rapidly. Should you choose to add an additional fan it will assist in expelling the hot air from the case with focus on cooling the air coming from the 2 bay HDD cage but more importantly from your RAM (especially if you have it over clocked. As with the lower side fans, DO NOT set these up with one Intake and one Exhaust. Once again, this causes a constant vortex of warm air causing the ambient temperature inside the case to stay at an elevated level. It also causes cross winds within the case and as I stated earlier, the goal is to get all the air moving in the same general direction (UP and BACK). There is one instance that you may want to reverse these two fans and make them both intakes which I will discuss with the 200mm side fan but at no time should one be an intake and one be an exhaust.

The Side 200mm fan is up for debate if you are water cooling your GPUs. However, if your GPUs are air-cooled, buy a Xigmatek 200mm fan and mod it to fit using the rubber mounts that come with it. The temperature differences on my GPU at full load averaged 10C-12C with the fan and without the fan set as an intake. Setting this fan as an intake, forces cool air directly onto the GPU/GPUs as well as the CPU cooler fans allowing them to cool the CPU with clean fresh air. It also works with the rear 120mm and top 200mm exhaust fans to cause a jet way for the cool air to push to the components at which time the three exhaust fans take over by expelling the air up, back and out of the case. Nature then takes its course where the heat swiftly rises away from the case so that all the intake fans are not drawing in any heated air, only cool air.

Here is the only time I could understand reversing the 120mm rear and 200mm top fans to intake. If you are limited on room above the case to where any air escaping from the top is running into something (i.e. the case is under a shelf or a desk) and you have plenty of room for the air to exhaust out the side with no obstructions (i.e. a wall or the side of the desk). When you do this, also make sure that you reverse the 200mm side fan and make it an exhaust as that will be your primary exhaust port and allow for the path of air to make a trip down and out the side. This concept is not preferred as it becomes very hard for the fans to push heated air down for more than a few inches; so many small vortexes, or whirlpools of air if you please, will take place right around the obstruction (basically your GPU). You would also have to make sure your CPU fans are pointed down as well so they are not conflicting with the traffic of air pushing against it. This, in turn, will cause your GPUs to also heat up. Like I said, this methodology would only be used in the severe case of something obstructing your top and rear exhausts.

In summary…This case was actually designed for maximum air cooling when set up exactly how it was intended by the engineers who built it.
Front 120mm or 140mm – Intake
Side 120mm X 2 – Intake
Side 200mm – Intake
Rear 120mm – Exhaust
Top 200mm X 2 – Exhaust
Setting it up this way provides for the cool air to take the most direct route possible to the exhausts. In its path and along its voyage it will provide the maximum amount of cool air to the components and the least resistance as possible.
Before you add additional fans inside the case to locations that are not meant to have them, just make sure you are not messing with the dynamics of the airflow. Just because you have more fans, does not mean you have better cooling. Think of where the air is coming from, where it is going to and any path of other fans it may interrupt in its own quest to find an exhaust. For example, sticking a fan in the 5.25” bays at the top are actually disrupting the airflow beneath it from the front and side fans causing two catastrophes. First, the heat from the HDDs cannot be immediately expelled via the right side vent. Second, the warm air you are drawing up from the HDDs is now aimed directly at your Memory and CPU.

As far as what CMF you should use, that is entirely up to your tolerance for noise. Obviously, it stands to reason that more cool air in = more hot air out. You really have three factors to deal with when you decide which way to go (Noise, Dust and Temperatures). Noise tolerance is obviously the first thing people think about. If you are in a highly dusty area, you will want more Intake CFM to cut down on the dust (Positive Pressure). For less dusty areas you can get lower temperatures by going with more Exhaust CFM (Negative Pressure). Do not ever try to achieve Static Pressure which is equal parts of intake to exhaust. This sounds like the perfect balance between dust and temperatures but it actually causes a huge vortex of heat right in the center-most portion of your case and the cool air will travel around it.
Using this methodology, I have been able to achieve an “On Air” over-clock on my i7 2600K from 3.4GHz to 5.0GHz with temps peaking at 74C when running all tests in 3DMark Vantage. I did get it up to 5.2GHz stable, but temps were over 82C so I dropped it back down to 5.0GHz 24/7 (For some reason this chip likes 5.0GHz at 1.5v because at 4.8GHz it had the same temps and 4.9GHz it was tipping 80C. I hope this helps and good luck with air cooling your Phantom.

Edit: Had to go back and check my data. The 74C was with all cores loaded in Prime95. In 3D Mark Vantage, the temps hovered at 60C.
Edited by DePontee - 6/23/11 at 5:22am
    
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post #3439 of 15204
Here is a pic that somewhat demonstrates the Airflow Methodology.
Green cirles = Intake
Red Circles = Exhaust
Yellow Lines = General Path of Air Flow
Blue Lines = Demonstrate the "Up and Back" concept

You will note that some of the hot air from the front HDD cage does escape to the top of the case. This air would normally take a path along side and through the 5.25" bays and up and out the top 200mm exhaust. By putting a fan in the bays, the air is then pushed to the memory and CPU instead of trickling up.

    
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post #3440 of 15204
Quote:
Originally Posted by dantheman68 View Post

I actually like the LEDs too. What doesn't make sense is that there is one dedicated button on the back that turns off one LED.... it seems like they worked extra hard to not put in a fan controller that allows "Full" control of the fan... Every fan controller I had, if I didn't want the LED on I turned the fan off.
The switch turns off leds in both top fans if you have them installed, you can get 4 molex switches you can fix the switches into a spare 5.25 bay cover, Ive two for UV lights....but not fans....
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