Originally Posted by num1son;14147157
Nope. Never know what your going to wind up with!
"As far as power consumption and your electric bill, just because it says it's a 1000W, it doesn't mean that it is drawing a constant 1000W. That is just what it is capable of going up to. In fact, if you have two identical systems, except one has a 750W and the other a 1000W, and you don't have enough in your system to draw on the full 1000W, you would hardly notice a difference in your bill (maybe a few cents per month). They only draw the power they need in order to run the components that are installed.
Based off of that, I would personally get a 1000W that way there is room for growth in the event you ever need it. Better to have and not need than to need and not have."
I thought I had read somewhere that they still draw more power. But when you think about it that doesn't really make sense. Why would it still draw more if its not doing anything with it.
Some do. Read all the stats before you buy one and make sure that it is a 80+ certified PSU. If it is not an 80+ then it could be a 50 for all you know. If that's the case, that means only 50% of your 500W PSU is actually being used for energy while the other 50% is disipated in heat. That being the case with a 500W PSU, that would mean that in order to achieve a 500W peak it has to draw 1000W in order to maintain its 500W peak. Hopefully, that explains the 80+ certification...Now about the max load. Take my PSU for example. I have a ToughPower 1050W that is rated 80+. In order to get that certification, it is tested at 20%, 50% and 100% loads and each test, the PSU must be putting out 80% power and only losing 20% or less to heat disipation. So, in turn, in order to do that, the PSU must be able to adjust for the ammount of power consumption. My computer is hooked to a 2000vac 1200W UPS/line conditioner. Its main purpose is to give me power backup if the power goes out and to keep the current at a constant in the case of brown-outs (I'm in Afghanistan and running off huge generators so that happens a lot). It has an added feature to it though that also tells me what my load is. With my computer up and running, along with two ASUS IPS monitors, I have yet to exceed 68% load and that's at start-up (usually, it hovers atound 22%). That tells me two things that could actually help him with his question on which PSU to buy. First, at full load, I am drawing 816W at full load and 264W at normal use. Second, this proves the point that if you are going to max out your HDD cages, run two over-clocked GTX-560Ti GPUs in SLI, and over-clock your CPU to 5.2GHz a 750W PSU would not work (remember 816W at full load)...Just food for thought.
EDIT...One more thought to keep in mind. When you are really making a huge system and using an extreme amount of power, try not to exceed a 1200W 80+ PSU. If you are in a newer house you might be able to get away with it, however, many older houses can't take that much amperage on a single line unless you are plugging it into an outlet that was meant for a refrigerator or some other high-amp utility. I've seen people fry the wires in their wall because they think they can just put a higher amp breaker in the box, forgetting that the wire itself can't take that much power-draw...Just another food for thought.Edited by DePontee - 7/8/11 at 8:53am