Originally Posted by ericld;11684407
Design the top to be detachable, and you can move it in three pieces. (Cam lock screws)
Thanks for the support ericld - you've got the right idea - the two cabinets will be detachable, and I may even make the top shelf a separate unit as well (Since the desk surface on its own is close to 60 pounds). I haven't thought about how everything will attach just yet, however. Are cam lock screws like the two-piece solution that you see in Ikea furniture a lot these days?
Originally Posted by evan_phi;11688930
I see you have lots of Mastercraft. You're Canadian too, eh?
Hehe, indeed mr evan_phi! From Ottawa, Ontario - it's starting to get chilly here, so I think I'll go hang out at Canadian Tire - see you there, eh?
I decided it was time to glue the two surfaces together that would comprise of the actual desk surface and take a break from working on the drawers for a while.
Here it is, the first piece. At first I wanted to lay it face down, so I could evenly distribute screws through the bottom, but in the end, I went face up so I would protect the surface, and it would be a LOT easier to line up the holes.
I threw on the top layer, lined them up, and thought to myself: Hmm, I wonder what it'll look like with the top shelf stacked on:
Pretty cool. This was the first time I had actually pulled a chair up to it to get a real grasp of how big this desk is going to be. I was pretty psyched.
Just a note, the two pieces of wood on each end holding up the shelf will actually be the inner supports (ie, pushed inwards towards the middle of the desk a foot or two), and the cubby holes on the outer ends will support the long shelf. The long shelf also has to be trimmed a couple inches, it won't reach right to the end of the desk.
This next part was really quite a challenge on my own.
I lined it up as best as I could (According to the holes that I cut out, since the edges are easy to trim later), lifted one end with a mighty, strong arm, squirted as much glue as I could with my other arm (And only as far as I could reach!), put it down gently, ran to the other side and repeated.
Let me tell you - with the amount of glue I put down, and the fact that each side weighs 20-30 pounds - it did NOT want to slide around easily to get into perfect position.
In the end, I had to muscle it around a bit to get the holes lined up satisfactorily.
(I spoke with a couple friends about this afterward, and one of them suggested making some pilot holes and screwing in a few screws BEFORE the gluing, and then retracting the screws so that just the tips go through the bottom board. That way after the glue is put down, you shuffle around the top board until the tips of the screws find the pilot holes, thus, eliminating the issue of getting proper alignment before the glue becomes too tacky.)
I then threw some weight on top of the table, attached as many clamps as I could find, and started putting some 1.25" screws through the bottom.
A few clamp shots of the hole - everything lined up pretty much perfect. 1/2" on the left and right, 1/2" at the bottom, and I think just a little under 3/4" at the top. (The size of the lip between the upper and lower holes)
I wasn't satisfied with the way the clamping was going on lengthwise on the surface. I didn't have enough clamps to place them every half foot, so luckily, Mike had some of these nice, big, cedar logs lying around that I re-purposed temporarily.
The end result turned out quite nicely. The hole was lined up properly. There is only a small overhang / underhang of maybe 2/16's of an inch on two of the edges of the surfaces that should be easy to correct with a flush-bit on the router later.
We'll take a look at them next update! Thanks for staying tuned!