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[Official] XSPC Rasa 750 RS/RX120/240/360 Kit Club - Page 1123

post #11221 of 13773
So I got my RS240 kit for Christmas and got it all installed fine using the back plate from the h50 it was replacing.
Got it all together (no Teflon has o rings on the barbs) installed and wired up, leak tested and everything.
Only to find out 2 days after I moved everything that my motherboard didn't survive the transplant from my old case in to my new phantom.

So now i am just sitting here waiting for Asus to reply to my rma request during probably there busiest time of the year.


on a side note it looks nice and is on an extended 2 week "leak test".

700
dont mind the pic its from my new galaxy s2 as well


Next on the checklist pending if i need to replace the motherboard is some sleeving and some ap15's
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post #11222 of 13773
I got all of the RX360 kit parts cleaned and installed into the ATCS 840 caseyesterday, but haven't connected the tubes yet. I had to do a little case modding. On the ATCS 840, there is just enough room for a 360 RAD, but the barbs are at the very back end of the case, almost touching it. You can remove the back plate that is there for mounting a PSU on top, so that was easy enough. However, the motherboard tray has a support bracket at the top and bottom to keep the whole end where the backplane goes perpindicular to the tray surface. When installed, that support bracket was about 1.5 to 2 inches directly below one of the barbs. I had to drill out the rivets to remove it. The only other two options were turning the radiator around and having the barbs semi into the 5.25 inch bays or mounting the radiator on the top of the already gigantic case. While I was "modding", I also decided to widen the cpu backplate cut-out with a dremel. The standard cutout obscured some of the 1155 backplate.

I actually found an old post by los hog with a link to a method for cleaining out RADs. I couldn't find a simple kitchen sink adapter with a barb, but I did find one that when to a 3/4 inch garden hose and another than went from a 3/4 inch to a 1/2 inch barb. I ran tapwater through the RAD, the block, and the res for about a minute each and then used about a half gallon of distilled water to rinse out the RAD. I used the rest to rinse out the block and res. Everything is now mounted inside the case. I was on the fence about leak testing inside with the PSU outside, but after removing tubing from barbs in the cleaning process, I decided to test inside. I hope to run the tubes tonight and start testing.

I found that the water block is quite easy to overtighten as you really don't feel much resistance cranking down the screws. By the way, it appears that the kit comes with some extra parts now. I think there is a 2011 backplate with totally different screws as there's an extra that's not shown in the waterblock documentation included in the kit. Also, the standard block has metal washers included along with the nylon ones and this isn't shown in the documentation either. I used the nylon.

Thanks again to everyone who's answered my posts so far. I'll post pics once I get it up and running.
Edited by breenemeister - 12/29/11 at 10:04am
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post #11223 of 13773
Does anyone know of any alternate way of mounting the water block. I have the RX360 in my HAF X and the thumbscrews from the water block prevent me from adding a fan directly above it. I have cut out slots in my fan but I am still a couple of mm off. It the thumbscrews were about 5mm shorter then the fan would fit.

Any Ideas?

I am going to look for some similar screws but instead of being thumb screws they will be just regular ones. What type of screws are these?
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post #11224 of 13773
maybe I am reading your question out of the context of the conversation...

But what exactly are you trying to do with your block, and why are you adding a fan.
post #11225 of 13773
Sorry to confuse.

My RX360 radiator is directly above where the waterblock is. It is perpendicular to the motherboard. When I try to add a fan to the radiator (the slot closest to the waterblock) the thumbscrews from the waterblock get in the way because the waterblock and the radiator are to close together. Basically the area where the fan goes is slightly occupied by the tall screws. If they were shorter then they would be out of the way.

I dont have a strange setup the parts are just too close together.
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post #11226 of 13773
do u have the rad mounted directly to the case? or are u using hanging brackets? if ur usig hanging brackets bend them (away from the mobo) so the rad sits at an angle this should give u more clearance....
post #11227 of 13773
Also i now your all crazy about the ap-15s here well i have some scythe 3000 rpm fans on my rad now that are far too loud me, what kinda temp increase am i going to see going down to the ap15s if i do?
post #11228 of 13773
Its. Not the cfm or rpm that make ap 15 a great fan its the high static psi
Even at low speeds
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Crucial M4 2.5" 256GB SATA III MLC Internal Sol... Western Digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 720... SONY Black 12X BD-R 2X BD-RE 8X DVD+R 5X DVD-RA... Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 64-bit 
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HP LED Black 27" 5ms HDMI Widescreen LED BackLi... Logitech G510 Black 18 Function Keys USB Wired ... SILVERSTONE ST1500 1500W ATX 12V 2.3 & EPS 12V ... XSPC H1 Hive Series Cube Enthusiast Water Cooli... 
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OtherOtherOtherOther
XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir - w/ Alphacool VP... XSPC EX360 Triple 120mm Low Profile Split Fin R... XSPC EX360 Triple 120mm Low Profile Split Fin R... XSPC EX360 Triple 120mm Low Profile Split Fin R... 
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post #11229 of 13773
okay... but am i going to see a temp increase or decrease for that matter switching from my scythe ULTRA KAZE 3000rpm fans?
post #11230 of 13773
Crap my pump stopped running. I installed my RX240 kit today. I was just checking for more air by turning the PS off and on every hour or so and now the pump will not turn on. I know the PS is working because the ap-15s run. I even hooked up to a brand new PS and still nothing.

Anyone have any advice?
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