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[Official] XSPC Rasa 750 RS/RX120/240/360 Kit Club - Page 1286

post #12851 of 13773
Quote:
i like the relocated lower HD tray. did you cut the bottom off of it to make it fit?

Nope, with the Corsair 650D it is easily removed from it's original position and slots right in to the bottom! Gives me a little room to add a 200mm radiator in the front (even with Push/Pull!)
Quote:
isn't one crossfire bridge enough for your setup?

That's what I thought! but CCC was giving me grief unless they were both connected, so they got sprayed and I just left them there.
 
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post #12852 of 13773
I've started to get parts for an upgrade & conversion to water cooling. This will be my first attempt into water cooling and I have some questions after reading pages of forum posts and watching hours of YouTube videos.
  1. I'm still going back and forth between the XSPC Raystorm EX360 and XSPC Raystorm RX360. I'm going to cool just the CPU for now, but may look at GPU cooling in a few years when I replace my video card. My current MSI 6870 doesn't have a full block available and I don't want to use a generic Video block. I know the EX360 will handle the CPU but would I be up a creek if/when I add a GPU block?
  2. Fan controller or splitter wired to the motherboard? I was looking at the Scythe Kaze Master Pro Ace 6-channel controller. I wish it was red to match my case. Should I use a controller at all versus just connecting it to the CPU Fan header on the MB? What's the advantages of both?
  3. Should I leak test in the case or outside, and with the MB installed or not? I've seen videos both ways. I like the idea of doing the leak test outside of the case but then do I take it apart to get it into the case and on the CPU? Seems that would invalidate the test since the connections are redone. If I leak test with the MB then there is an obvious risk. I could assemble to measure the tubing, remove the MB but leave the tubing and leak test in an empty case, then replace the MB and mount the CPU block.
  4. What's the "best" way to drain the system after it's been installed? I could put a T connector and a drain line but if it's so important why is it not in a very good kit? What method do you use?
post #12853 of 13773
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raafe View Post

]Should I leak test in the case or outside, and with the MB installed or not?

I am by no means an expert, but on this point;

i leak tested externally overnight and after removing all my drive bay covers, was actually able to reinsert the entire loop (Filled) back in through the front! thus, no connections were re-done and the leak test remained valid.

Good Luck!

Edit: Should mention that you need 3 hands to support block, rad & res!
 
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post #12854 of 13773
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raafe View Post

I've started to get parts for an upgrade & conversion to water cooling. This will be my first attempt into water cooling and I have some questions after reading pages of forum posts and watching hours of YouTube videos.
  1. I'm still going back and forth between the XSPC Raystorm EX360 and XSPC Raystorm RX360. I'm going to cool just the CPU for now, but may look at GPU cooling in a few years when I replace my video card. My current MSI 6870 doesn't have a full block available and I don't want to use a generic Video block. I know the EX360 will handle the CPU but would I be up a creek if/when I add a GPU block?
  2. Fan controller or splitter wired to the motherboard? I was looking at the Scythe Kaze Master Pro Ace 6-channel controller. I wish it was red to match my case. Should I use a controller at all versus just connecting it to the CPU Fan header on the MB? What's the advantages of both?
  3. Should I leak test in the case or outside, and with the MB installed or not? I've seen videos both ways. I like the idea of doing the leak test outside of the case but then do I take it apart to get it into the case and on the CPU? Seems that would invalidate the test since the connections are redone. If I leak test with the MB then there is an obvious risk. I could assemble to measure the tubing, remove the MB but leave the tubing and leak test in an empty case, then replace the MB and mount the CPU block.
  4. What's the "best" way to drain the system after it's been installed? I could put a T connector and a drain line but if it's so important why is it not in a very good kit? What method do you use?

1. Just get the EX if you plan on using medium to high speed fans, RX if you want to use low to medium speed fans. You should be OK, with either and add a single GPU.

2. Use a fan controller, it will make your build look a lot cleaner when you are done. You don't want 6 fans plugged into your mobo really anyway, you would have to use splitters, and yeah, it would just get messy.

3. Leak test inside your case, assembled as you plan to run it. Leak testing outside of your case is pointless, as that's not where you are going to be running it, and after you move it inside, something could come loose, or whatever. Just run the loop by itself, with the rest of the machine turned off, and you should be fine. I personally am reckless, and don't even bother really leak testing anymore, not saying you shouldn't, but don't worry yourself to death over it. Just assemble things nice, and snug, and do a bit of leak testing, you should be fine.

4. A T line would be nice, and make draining the loop easier. I'd consider that a "luxury" item, more than a necessity. I don't have one, but it's a PITA to drain my loop, so, if you want to make it easier on your self, consider setting one up. If you don't mind tipping your case over / siphoning water out the res, then don't.
post #12855 of 13773
(reposting this here form a conversation in another thread, but it seems relevant. this conversation was discussing the pros/cons of adding a second video card to the system as to only has 1 monitor running on the main card)

ok, drum roll please!

so i was able to pick up the card at fry's (last one btw, ordering online before you go get it FTW!). i booted up my machine, let it sit for 1 minute, then launched HW monitor, minimized that and ran 3dmark06. as soon as that finished i got my score and took a screen shot of the score and the temps. after that, i shut down the machine and installed the gt 210. again i booted up the machine, let it sit for 1 minute, launched HW monitor, minimized that and ran 3dmark06. as soon as that finished, i got my score for the second run and the temps, so here you go!

SINGLE:
singlecard.jpg

2 CARDS:
dual.jpg

so, to sum up, we are looking at a difference of 162 3dmarks (well within the variance of the test itself), and a drop in main gpu temps of 14C at load, and 15C at idle, as well as a 1C to 4C drop in cpu temps (this because the main GPU and cpu are on the same water loop). with the information in hand, i can say this is WELL worth the $25 cost of the second card. thoughts?
    
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post #12856 of 13773
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post #12857 of 13773
This seems strange. A while back I installed the Raystorm, and since I wasn't planning at the time to leave it on this rig I just used the original mounting screws, springs, etc from the Rasa block.
No problems.
Eventually took it off and put the Rasa back on. Recently decided to get another Raystorm for the new build, so today I went to take off the Rasa and reinstall the Raystorm, this time with the mounting gear that came with it. Was a disaster. I couldn't push any of the screws hard enough to get the threads started. Finally I set the Raystorm down and compared the screws/springs with the Rasa ones.
It appears the screws are the same length, but the springs are so stiff they won't compress, at least with the screw not started in the threads, which was impossible. I ended up just reusing the Rasa kit again to reinstall the Raystorm. And yes, the knurled nuts were snugged against the screw head.
Anyone else run into this?
post #12858 of 13773
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Corsair SP120 x6 push/pull Windows 10 Acer Predator X34 Corsair K70 RGB 
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Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingCooling
Samsung EVO 500GB SSD Samsung EVO Pro 512MB M2 Drive XSPC Raystorm Pro AlphaCool ST30 360 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Corsair SP120 x6 push/pull Windows 10 Acer Predator X34 Corsair K70 RGB 
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post #12859 of 13773
Just Wanted to thank everyone for their support and those of you who came forward to help me with the Tubing issue, RJacobs28 has actually been very kind and sent me off his unused stock tubing which was big help. specool.gif I'm still missing a Kill Coil so if anybody have a good spare one with their kit then let me know, I will gladly pay to take it off your hands. smile.gif

A Question by the way, How much coolant / liquid does the RS240 take to fill up completely including the radiator and the 1.5m - 2m tubing?. I'm actually going to mount my friends radiator at the bottom of his PC and have some old Thermaltake coolant about 800ml with me so was wondering if that would be enough or might I need to mix and top up some distilled water to the coolant. Any estimates on nearly how much liquid it requires? headscratch.gif

Thanks thumb.gif
Edited by TheBirdman74 - 6/18/12 at 4:09am
post #12860 of 13773
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBirdman74 View Post

Just Wanted to thank everyone for their support and those of you who came forward to help me with the Tubing issue, RJacobs28 has actually been very kind and sent me off his unused stock tubing which was big help.

No problems mate! Hope it all works out for ya!
 
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Missus' Rig
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Intel Core i7 7700k Asus Maximus IX Hero Asus GTX 1080 ti Strix Asus GTX 1080 ti Strix 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
GSkill TridentZ 16GB 4133MHz Samsung 960 Pro 1TB Samsung 850 Pro 1TB (RAID 0) Samsung 850 Pro 1TB (RAID 0) 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
EK Predator 240 Windows 10 Asus ROG Swift PG278Q Razer BlackWidow Chroma X 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair AX850 NZXT ROG Noctis 450 Razer Deathadder Chroma ROG Sheath 
Audio
Astro A50 Wireless Headset 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 4790k Asus Maximus VII Hero Gigabyte GTX 960 G1 Gaming 4GB 16GB 1866MHz 
Hard DriveCoolingPowerCase
Samsung 840 Pro 512GB Corsair H110i Corsair CX500 NZXT H440 
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