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[Official] XSPC Rasa 750 RS/RX120/240/360 Kit Club - Page 467

post #4661 of 13773
Before we guys install the rad, do we need to flush out the rad with tap water? any suggestion doing so?
post #4662 of 13773
Quote:
Originally Posted by mbudden View Post
Mine's not green, but it's brown.
+1
My tubing is turning brown too.
post #4663 of 13773
Quote:
Originally Posted by nden View Post
Before we guys install the rad, do we need to flush out the rad with tap water? any suggestion doing so?
Hot water... helps dissolve any grease (if any). Watch hands. Wear gloves if possible. Shake, don't stir. Do this a few times. NO SOAPS or anything like that.
post #4664 of 13773
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garanthor View Post
I totally hear you on that. I think you've seen the pic of my HAF 922. I like to keep it as clean as I can as well. That's part of the reason why the rad is outside the case and why the tube from the res to the rad runs behind the motherboard tray. Note the 45 degree angled compression adapters on the block. Works well with this case but they're not cheap. The tubing and all the compression fittings (6 total) cost me an extra $100.00
I think that's (your pix) were I got the idea to use the 45 degree fittings on the CPU block. I have the rad externally mounted on the back and the tubing leaves the RAD with a slight angle, into the tube hole and on to the CPU block. I bet the 45 helps a bit.

$100... ouch BUT like I saw in the Dazmode video in the FAQ. You buy them ONCE and use them forever.
post #4665 of 13773
Quote:
Originally Posted by solar0987 View Post
15$ is ok as thats what i paid for my current led fans there thermaltake thunderblades from radioshack
the only problem i have with them is there soooooo loud and when i hook up the yellow rpm wire to my motherboard they dont lower in speed any no matter the setting i use in my bios
all the other fas ive tried do even the ones that came with the kit
i want quiet lol without loosing to much performace
The yellow wire is only for RPM signal. If you want to control the fan speed, you have to plug the other two wires (black/yellow or red) to the mobo fan ports or a fan controller. Thats where you control the fans voltage for RPM. Just make sure the mobo fan port can handle the fans amp draw or you'll blow the mobo fan ports circuit.
     
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post #4666 of 13773
Quote:
Originally Posted by ezveedub View Post
The yellow wire is only for RPM signal. If you want to control the fan speed, you have to plug the other two wires (black/yellow or red) to the mobo fan ports or a fan controller. Thats where you control the fans voltage for RPM. Just make sure the mobo fan port can handle the fans amp draw or you'll blow the mobo fan ports circuit.
Don't those Thermaltake fans also come with their own controller built in? If so, that controller wire may go from the fan to the controller knob and not reach the fan head on the mobo... but I cant be sure though. If that were the case, then you may not have fan control over them.

Could be wrong though. Rough day today at the office.Gonna go growl at the cat now.
post #4667 of 13773
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kahbrohn View Post
Don't those Thermaltake fans also come with their own controller built in? If so, that controller wire may go from the fan to the controller knob and not reach the fan head on the mobo... but I cant be sure though. If that were the case, then you may not have fan control over them.

Could be wrong though. Rough day today at the office.Gonna go growl at the cat now.
No clue, but the ones I had have a separate two pin cable where you attach a thermo sensor or a mini rheostat to adjust fan speed. Without anything hooked up, then run at full speed. I had 2800 RPM fans, way too loud for me. Other issue was turn on speed was not so great and the RPM was not linear. They got to a point of descent noise then quickly ramped up on speed at a certain point of voltage.
     
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post #4668 of 13773
Quote:
Originally Posted by ezveedub View Post
No clue, but the ones I had have a separate two pin cable where you attach a thermo sensor or a mini rheostat to adjust fan speed. Without anything hooked up, then run at full speed. I had 2800 RPM fans, way too loud for me.
I think I learned the hard way... I cut the controller off of one once and went straight to the fan header... 100% duty from then on. Thing sounded like a 747.
post #4669 of 13773
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kahbrohn View Post
I think I learned the hard way... I cut the controller off of one once and went straight to the fan header... 100% duty from then on. Thing sounded like a 747.
Mine was like a blow dryer. Just hang over the top of the case and let the air blow though your hair, LOL
     
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Intel Core i7 860 P7P55D-E PRO AMD Radeon HD 6900 Series AMD Radeon HD 6900 Series 
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Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
TSH663B DVD burner EK Supreme HF XSPC RC360 XSPC DDC Reservoir 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
EK-FC6990 - EN (Nickel) Windows 10 64bit Pro Gateway FHX2300 Logitech MK320 Wireless Desktop Keyboard  
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CaseLabs M8 
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Intel Core i7 860 P7P55D-E PRO AMD Radeon HD 6900 Series AMD Radeon HD 6900 Series 
RAMRAMHard DriveHard Drive
G. G. Kingston 120Gb SSD Seagate SATA Barracuda 160GB 
Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
TSH663B DVD burner EK Supreme HF XSPC RC360 XSPC DDC Reservoir 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
EK-FC6990 - EN (Nickel) Windows 10 64bit Pro Gateway FHX2300 Logitech MK320 Wireless Desktop Keyboard  
PowerCaseMouseAudio
PC Power & Cooling Silencer 750 Quad Cooler Master HAF 932 Logitech MK320 Wireless Desktop Mouse  Creative 5.1 
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post #4670 of 13773
Hey guys, Im about to start leak testing. I can't find in this thread if it is recommended to open up and clean the CPU water block. If it is recommended, what is the preferred method?
Midi Station
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Midi Station
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