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[Official] XSPC Rasa 750 RS/RX120/240/360 Kit Club - Page 747

post #7461 of 13773
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boyboyd View Post
It's different to my rasa block :S



Edit: oh wait. Do you have to change the front part of the mount if you have an AMD? I thought it was just a different backplate.
Yes, you remove the "X" bracket from the block and install the other one in the box for AMD cpus.
     
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post #7462 of 13773
oh wow, thanks. Now i know, and

post #7463 of 13773
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boyboyd View Post
oh wow, thanks. Now i know, and

Understanding is the other half... you got this battle won!
post #7464 of 13773
So has anyone had any troubles with these loops? I'd like to start looking into water cooling and the RX240 version seems right up my ally. I'd like to start with CPU block only and this is cheap enough in my price range to get started but you get what you pay for, is this kit worth it, do I need to take any special precautions? Thanks!

Edit: Also, is a kill coil necessary? What is the point of one? And I've read throughout this thread that the tubing isn't great, seeing as its fairly cheap should I go ahead and buy some?
Edited by Bdonedge - 5/20/11 at 11:41am
post #7465 of 13773
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bdonedge View Post
So has anyone had any troubles with these loops? I'd like to start looking into water cooling and the RX240 version seems right up my ally. I'd like to start with CPU block only and this is cheap enough in my price range to get started but you get what you pay for, is this kit worth it, do I need to take any special precautions? Thanks!

Edit: Also, is a kill coil necessary? What is the point of one? And I've read throughout this thread that the tubing isn't great, seeing as its fairly cheap should I go ahead and buy some?
Enter your system information (> "USER CP" > "EDIT SYSTEM") and you will get much better information. For example, some CPU's heat up much more than others. Normally, the RX240 for a CPU only loop but could/would require additional upgrades in the future should you want to add a GPU for example. They you'd need to move up into the 360 rad's. I think the price difference is like $20 between theX240 and the RS360. Another $20-30 moving up into the RX360. Good to plan it out as of now.

Kill coil or PT Nuke... prevents algae/bacteria growth within your distilled water loop. The stock tubing will get "ugly" pretty fast. That is an inexpensive upgrade worth doing from the get-go. Primochill tubing tends to be the tubing of choice. To prevent the ugly tubing, either good quality tubing or simply plasticizer-free tubing. It's the plasticizer in the tubing that makes it cloud up.
Edited by Kahbrohn - 5/20/11 at 11:56am
post #7466 of 13773
I personally think my Rx kit is worth every penny, once I put some decent thermal paste on it anyway.

All of the parts included in the kit are pretty good. The block isn't the best on the market, and the pump is 'only' better-than-average but the RX rads are some of the best you can buy at the moment.

A killcoil is just to stop algae clogging up the tubes and blocks, it's because pure silver is toxic to organics. You can also use some biocide or copper sulphate for a similar effect (i think).

Just one tip, get some of your own tubing. The stuff they include goes brown/green due to the platicizer they use in production. You'll need 7/16" inner diameter.
post #7467 of 13773
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boyboyd View Post
I personally think my Rx kit is worth every penny, once I put some decent thermal paste on it anyway.

All of the parts included in the kit are pretty good. The block isn't the best on the market, and the pump is 'only' better-than-average but the RX rads are some of the best you can buy at the moment.

A killcoil is just to stop algae clogging up the tubes and blocks, it's because pure silver is toxic to organics. You can also use some biocide or copper sulphate for a similar effect (i think).

Just one tip, get some of your own tubing. The stuff they include goes brown/green due to the platicizer they use in production. You'll need 7/16" inner diameter.
The block is second best in the market from the reviews I read... and that was only by 1-2*C difference MAX! If you factor in the lower price, then you are looking at a block that is tied for first.

Biocide (PT-Nuke), yes. Copper Sulphate I have read that you need to be very careful with the amount used. Some chemistry student was explaining that to me the other day... maybe it was even my daughter who is a chem major.

Agree on the tubing. Good call on using the 7/16". That ID tubing on a 1/2" barb and you get a tight fit.
post #7468 of 13773
Well, I just finish with a few mods to get the RX360 Rad to fit in the top of my case alone with a RX120 on the rear. On the 932, i could have done this with out the mod, but my mother board cannot fit inside a 932.

http://s1116.photobucket.com/albums/...pdated%20case/

I also had all kinds of issues, no leaks on the leak test, then 4 when I put it in the case. On the EK SLI bridge, someone smart(me) didn't read the direction all the way through and connect the input on the same side of the out put. Water was just running straight through without going through the cards. Thanks for auto shut down on the cards, temps was high while i was trying to fine the issue. So with each leak, drain, fix, test, fix drain test. Man I was hot, well except when the water hit me a couple of time. . All is well and up and running. My high temp with a hour of prime95 was 46 on any core @4.0. Time to overclock my cards and my cpu higher.
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post #7469 of 13773
Quote:
Originally Posted by wetfit9 View Post
Well, I just finish with a few mods to get the RX360 Rad to fit in the top of my case alone with a RX120 on the rear. On the 932, i could have done this with out the mod, but my mother board cannot fit inside a 932.

http://s1116.photobucket.com/albums/...pdated%20case/

I also had all kinds of issues, no leaks on the leak test, then 4 when I put it in the case. On the EK SLI bridge, someone smart(me) didn't read the direction all the way through and connect the input on the same side of the out put. Water was just running straight through without going through the cards. Thanks for auto shut down on the cards, temps was high while i was trying to fine the issue. So with each leak, drain, fix, test, fix drain test. Man I was hot, well except when the water hit me a couple of time. . All is well and up and running. My high temp with a hour of prime95 was 46 on any core @4.0. Time to overclock my cards and my cpu higher.
The EK bridge instructions only show a flow diagram. Its actually from a color computer diagram, but its in black and white on the instructions, so go figure. Anyway, yes, you have to have the input and output on opposite vertical ports. In on the left, out on the right or vice versa, but never on the same inline port on the bridge. Glad it worked it out for you in the end. I assume you got a parallel bridge, not serial, correct?
     
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post #7470 of 13773
That is correct. Now I think I need a bigger case. I have been looking at the M10. Trying to get a feel for it before I spend that kind of money.
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