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[Official] XSPC Rasa 750 RS/RX120/240/360 Kit Club - Page 902

post #9011 of 13773
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt26LFC View Post
Oh rite, had me worried for a minute then matey lol yeah i peeled the bit off the copper face also
Ok... and do you feel comfortable with the TIM application you made?
post #9012 of 13773
Not completely happy with it, think i may have put a little too much on. It was MX-3, which according to SkinneeLabs sucks lol But i got some Shin Etsu on the way, should be arriving 2morrow. Could be i just didn't tighten the block up enough, i did the top bolts hand tight, then tightened the bit underneath with the spring a bit but not all the way or nothing.
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post #9013 of 13773
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt26LFC View Post
Not completely happy with it, think i may have put a little too much on. It was MX-3, which according to SkinneeLabs sucks lol But i got some Shin Etsu on the way, should be arriving 2morrow. Could be i just didn't tighten the block up enough, i did the top bolts hand tight, then tightened the bit underneath with the spring a bit but not all the way or nothing.
Shin Etsu is nice... Read up on how to apply it. There are some tricks to it since it's a bit more "paste" in texture. Most users recommend heating it up a bit to have it apply easier but just do the reading (google it - tons of info on this) and become familiar with it's application. I am almost certain you will see much betters temps once done. I will be doing the same shortly since I have a 6 month maintenance schedule set for my loop (personal choice more than anything) and I am coming up on the 'loop-break-down-and-clean-things-up-a-bit' time.

To clean off old TIM try using 70% or 91% (91% is better) isopropyl alcohol. It's cheap and almost every pharmacy/drug store sells it. DO NOT use anything that is oil based to clean off old TIM.
post #9014 of 13773
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kahbrohn View Post
Shin Etsu is nice... Read up on how to apply it. There are some tricks to it since it's a bit more "paste" in texture. Most users recommend heating it up a bit to have it apply easier but just do the reading (google it - tons of info on this) and become familiar with it's application. I am almost certain you will see much betters temps once done. I will be doing the same shortly since I have a 6 month maintenance schedule set for my loop (personal choice more than anything) and I am coming up on the 'loop-break-down-and-clean-things-up-a-bit' time.

To clean off old TIM try using 70% or 91% (91% is better) isopropyl alcohol. It's cheap and almost every pharmacy/drug store sells it. DO NOT use anything that is oil based to clean off old TIM.
Yeah i read one guy put his Shin Etsu under his hot water tap for a while to help with spread. May do that one, i've got the Artic Cleaner gear, been using that stuff for a while to clean TIM off seems to do a good job making it all shiny again I may take a photo of the MX3 left behind, and post it see what ya think as in too much or not.
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post #9015 of 13773
my pump use to be 100% silent, now ir makes this annoying rattle. should i be worried?

its been about 2 weeks since i had it
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post #9016 of 13773
Quote:
Originally Posted by exzited View Post
my pump use to be 100% silent, now ir makes this annoying rattle. should i be worried?

its been about 2 weeks since i had it
Mine did the same thing. Been like that for months with no problems. It doesn't seem to depict anything is going wrong, as pumps fail out of no where which were always silent. I use the rattle to now if the pump is working. If I don't hear anything is when I check it, LOL
     
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post #9017 of 13773
Quote:
Originally Posted by ezveedub View Post
Mine did the same thing. Been like that for months with no problems. It doesn't seem to depict anything is going wrong, as pumps fail out of no where which were always silent. I use the rattle to now if the pump is working. If I don't hear anything is when I check it, LOL
hahaha now at least i know its working xD
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post #9018 of 13773
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kahbrohn View Post
The block comes wrapped in a self adhesive plastic. No way to get to the block without removing this plastic. But on the copper face of the block itself, there is a "second" plastic. It can be difficult to see sometimes. If it is not removed, it will cause higher than normal temperatures. If you took both of these plastics off, then you should be ok then.
Holy crap. I can't believe I did this! I was wondering why the CPU was as hot as running a stock cooler. When I went change the thermal paste, I realized that the second plastic film was still on the copper surface. Doh!

With two GTX580s running SLI on the same loop, it's still getting a bit warm. I wonder if I should make separate loops for the CPU and GPUs, or add another radiator to the current loop.
post #9019 of 13773
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kahbrohn View Post
ORRRRR.... that second plastic cover that needs to be removed from the waterblock itself!!!
Very true! I notice a lot of people seem to miss this for some reason.
     
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post #9020 of 13773
Quote:
Originally Posted by RSharpe View Post
Holy crap. I can't believe I did this! I was wondering why the CPU was as hot as running a stock cooler. When I went change the thermal paste, I realized that the second plastic film was still on the copper surface. Doh!

With two GTX580s running SLI on the same loop, it's still getting a bit warm. I wonder if I should make separate loops for the CPU and GPUs, or add another radiator to the current loop.
How warm is it running? I've run a OCed 860, 6990 and 6970 on single RX360 for 4 hours under Crysis Warhead and everything was fine. Room was warm as heck though, but no issues or high temps to worry about really.
     
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