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[Finished] The Wooden Cheese I, Scratch Plywood Case - Page 3

post #21 of 114
Promptly subbed. Definitely following this one to the end.

Pinkerton, is that Andy Lau?
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Taijin Kyofusho
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post #22 of 114
Thread Starter 
Woah thanks!!

It's only missing the side panels now, the one in the radiator will be plain, and the one facing the 'board will have a plexi window with a small bezel (but big enough to cover the small fan bezel that's still visible)

Btw, posting the fanbus schematics in a while, I'm currently soldering the ICs for two channels (the retailer only had two LM317 so... *sigh* i'll need to wait one more week)
   
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post #23 of 114
Are you gonna paint it? What varnish would u use?
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post #24 of 114
Quote:
Originally Posted by faraz1729;11851673 
Promptly subbed. Definitely following this one to the end.

Pinkerton, is that Andy Lau?


Yeah, Infernal Affairs is a favorite of mine. Great movie and sequels
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post #25 of 114
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by slytown;11851775 
Are you gonna paint it? What varnish would u use?

Noes, bare plywood. Love how it looks tongue.gif

The barnish is ultra long lasting transparent finish protective coating, from Xylazel. So far it only has one layer, but I'll add another when I finish the front panel.
   
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post #26 of 114
I like it, that's pretty much exactly the same layout I went with on my custom case. I went with painted mdf though.
post #27 of 114
Thread Starter 
Yeah, it's more or less the best layout to go with. That way you don't mix water with electricity, and end up with a pretty clean workspace. Also each component gets cold air, so there's no possible way of cooling the board better tongue.gif
   
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post #28 of 114
Thread Starter 
Good news is good smile.gif


I've managed to get two of the three LED dimmers built&working!

This is a pic of the PCBs without LEDs attached. Figure out where they are connected and polarities wink.gif


attachment.php?attachmentid=189949&stc=1&d=1294953124

attachment.php?attachmentid=189950&stc=1&d=1294953124

Tomorrow I'll get my hands on some more poly caps since I've ran out of those capacities!! Might as well get some connectors to make LED connections more neat, not this buncha shiz I have now (UTP wires soldered to PCB... what da!?)



And btw, this is a pic from ONE channel of the fan controller smile.gif


attachment.php?attachmentid=189951&stc=1&d=1294953124

attachment.php?attachmentid=189952&stc=1&d=1294953124



The pots are gonna be outside the PCB, that one is soldered just for testing purposes smile.gif

And yes, I know the soldering job on the controller is just TERRIBLE. I was just lazy to go and get some fres wire LOL.

The HS has been made using some big diam copper pipe, with the HS and the case airflow the thing is capable of managing up to 18W per fan smile.gif




Hope you like them smile.gif
   
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post #29 of 114
nice circuits brother cool.gif

can you post the schematic and the components for the dimmer :good:
am looking for something like that
Xtreme-Station
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post #30 of 114
Thread Starter 
Shoor! They're a simple PWM circuit modified to fit a LED, there we go.


attachment.php?attachmentid=190797&stc=1&d=1295293545


Oscillating at 144Hz, might try to up that to 1.44kHz so the LEDs blink fast enough for me to be unable to distinguish wether they blink or they not. Can be easily done by changing the pin C1 capacitor for a smaller one. 10nF would lead to 1.44kHz, 1nF to 14.4KHz and so on. Have in mind that some LEDs can't work with high frequencies, leading the LED to not be regulated, and thus acting like a normal 100% duty cycle LED.

The R1 resistor with a wire hanging up there is actually a potentiometer, with the central pin (adjustable one) connected to pin 3 of the 555 timer.

Diodes are simple silicon ones. Just make sure they can sink the current and the voltage requiered for the application. If you use high frequencies (10kHz for example) you should switch for Schottky barrier diodes since silicon ones can't recover and would lead to some serious current losses.

The R2 resistor is calculated for a 20mA LED, depending on what you fit you'll need something bigger or smaller. Have in mind that this circuit sinks the current via the 555, so you can't exceed 200mA current with the 555 properly cooled (heatsink and airflow). On passive cooling normal state I wouldn't go across 100mA for the durability of the circuit.


Will post results once I have the three circuits up and running in the system smile.gif


Edit: If you want to build it, this is what I used for each PWM circuit:

-8 rows of perfboard, manufactured by ROTH Elektronik
-1x Molex connector
-1x NE555 timer manufactured by ST Semiconductor
-2x 100nF polyester capacitors
-1x 10nF polyester capacitor
-1x 100k variable resistor
-2x 1N1001 general purpose silicon diodes
-1x 300Ohm 1/4W carbon film resistor
-1x 10k 1/4W carbon film resistor
-1x high brightness 20mA LED


Any decent electronics shack should have all of those. They're very very basic components.
Edited by Artikbot - 1/17/11 at 11:54am
   
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PicoPSU-80-WI-25V AIO Aluminium Handmade TP-Link Archer Something Something Wi-Fi AC 
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Core2Duo E6400 Core2Quad Q6600 Pentium Dual Core E5200 AsRock 4COREDUAL-SATA2 R2.0 
GraphicsRAMHard DriveOptical Drive
A dumpload of ancient AGP cards Kingston Value DDR2-667 CL4 2T @CL3 1T Seagate 160GB 7200.10 LG IDE DVD-ROM 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
Ghettomade CPU waterblock 49cc 2stroke engine copper radiator WinXP SP2 32bit ProView 17" 
PowerCase
Tacens Radix V 550W Ghetto aluminium bench 
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Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Builds & Case Mods › Case Mods › Case Mod Work Logs › [Finished] The Wooden Cheese I, Scratch Plywood Case