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MKG-RC1 (Driving Simulator scratch build log) - Page 19

post #181 of 228
If i had that much and was really wanting this, then I would buy in a heartbeat. Haha shipping would add like another 1000.
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post #182 of 228
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoMurda View Post
If i had that much and was really wanting this, then I would buy in a heartbeat. Haha shipping would add like another 1000.
Road trip!!!
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post #183 of 228
Thread Starter 
Well guys, I have another update on this project even though I already labeled this thread as completed

I bought a few things from Fry's on Saturday on the way back to the shop when I was done with my job. Man it was a long week.. anyways heres a pic of what I bought-



There's one green led, one red led, 2 spdif cables, and a 3-way toggle switch (on,off,on). The leds will be wired up to the motherboard for power (green) and HDD activity (red). I needed the spdif cables just for the 2 pin connectors on either end, as I couldn't find and 2 pin or single pin connectors. I bought the 3 way toggle to wire up to the manual 2-port usb switch.

So I cut the spdif wires in half and end up with four 2-pin connectors- Perfect!
First thing I have to do is to find the little end that I had previously cut off the spdif cable for the GTX 295 (I actually didn't realize that was what it was at the time that I butchered it, I just knew I needed the 2-pin connector for the power button for the pc). After rooting around in the box of crap that was left from this build, I was beginning to think that I tossed it in the garbage But no! there it is! the tiny lil bastarge.

I strip the ends of the wires, slip on some shrink wrap, dip the bare wires into some flux, and get ready to solder-



wires soldered-



Next I use my faithful heat-gun to shrink the heat-shrink. This initial cost of buying a heat gun is a bit daunting, but let me tell ya, it's well worth it. I have had this one for a while and it's still going strong. It's great! small, portable, and cordless



Here's a picture of my BFG GTX 295 spdif cable reborn!



The cable plugs into the card here-



and onto the mainboard here (pins 3 and 5 of the spdif pins)



This solved one of the only issues that I was not satisfied with on this project. I was using the coaxial digital audio output on the i/o panel on the P55-LE to run the audio signal to the reciever, but you had to go around the back of the machine and use the stereo's remote to change the input when using the pc, then change it back for the xbox or ps3. No more! Now video and audio switching are completely automatic Turn on the xbox, you have video and audio. Now turn on the pc, and the video and audio signal switch over to the pc, without touching anything but the pc's power button. Same goes for the ps3. Thats exactly what I wanted- nice and simple.
Edited by bob808 - 7/13/11 at 2:58am
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post #184 of 228
Thread Starter 
Next I solder up the mobo end of the reset button-





Next I solder up the leds-




times two-
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post #185 of 228
Thread Starter 
Here's a picture of the 2-port manual usb switch that I want to wire up to a toggle switch that I can put on the dash.




I attack it with a flat tip screwdirver and find this circuit board within.




These buttons are actually 3 position switches. The middle position is neutral, and when you engage one button, the other button pushes out to the off position. The switches have 12 connecting pins each

I NEED YOUR HELP OCN! Can someone decipher this circuit board for me and tell me where to solder my toggle switch to? I can figure out which solder points are grounds, but I am not sure about which points I need to wire to my 3-way switch (on-off-on).

Heres the same picture of the board rotated 180 degrees so the usb ports are on top.



From what I follow, there are four wires that come off the usb port. One is a ground, one goes to a diode, and two go to the switch. from there I get a bit lost. From the switch, there is a lead that goes to a resistor to a led, the switches are also wired to eachother, man, i am just not sure looking at it. Maybe I am just too tired, but I could really use your help if you can see the solution. I will +rep anyone who can help with this issue.
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post #186 of 228
Thread Starter 
While I had the back of the cabinet off, I used the oppritunity to tidy up the wiring now that everything is finalised, besides the toggle switch for the usb switch.

I drilled a couple holes for the wires in the console shelf for the wires, ran the reset button and led leads to the motherboard, wired up the cigarette lighter light (but it needs a new bulb, it's burnt out), and attached the power and reset leds to the dash.

After a handful of zip-ties, heres what the wiring is looking like-







Heres a couple of shots of the new power and HDD activity leds in action-



The green ring around the cig lighter will light up once I get a new bulb for it.

Edited by bob808 - 1/30/11 at 11:44pm
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post #187 of 228
Thread Starter 
I could really use some help on a question I have posted here http://www.overclock.net/other-perip...l#post12215856 concerning the 2-port usb switch, if anyone is able. Thanks!
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post #188 of 228
I was looking at it, but it's tough to say. Keep trying! Something awesome should happen.
post #189 of 228
Thread Starter 
I was able to get the toggle switch to work
I ended up wiring the +5v and the data+ wires to the toggle, and bridging the data- connections on the circuit board and it works flawlessly

The points that I soldered are specified by the dual yellow lines- I bridged the green dots (with yellow lines) with a small piece of wire, the other ones (red and white) went to the switch.



Now I am going to have to attach it to the dash-
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post #190 of 228
glad you were able to get it working. sweet.
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