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800D Re-Build Log (320-MCR + 220-MCR in the bottom) 56k death

post #1 of 90
Thread Starter 
I decided to take my 800D and fit as much cooling power inside as I possibly could. The end result is 2x360mm radiators and 1x240mm. It turns out that my HX850 is the perfect length to allow for a 320-MCR to be shoehorned in next to it which allows for a look similar to the Silverstone TJ-07. I've done all the (surprisingly few) modifications myself over the past few days, documenting as I've gone along. I'll get back to adding some pictures into the thread directly and adding some narration, but here is some linkage to get everyone started.

Mods:
-Removed bottom HDD cage
-Cut vent hole in bottom of case for lower rads
-Drilled two pass-throughs for tubing allowing for hidden line under hot-swap bay cover
-Added quick disconnects to loop to allow for easy swapping/testing of graphics cards.

Links:

Re-Build

Thanks for looking! I'm happy to help anyone with questions about measurements or fit and finish of the build.

Note: This build is similar to the CoolBreeze 800D here on OCN, though I maintain that we thought of it at the same time, he just beat me too it... Not to be outdone, I added a bit of OCN excess to the mix

Before shot. That's Tygon R3603 1/2x5/8 with BP Silver compressions.


Shot of the 140s in the bottom for intake.


Hard drives hot-swapped to the desk, time to start the deconstruction.


3 revisions of the loop and I still haven't made it easy to drain, so I just cut some pieces here and there.


Checking for clearance.




Rivets from the HDD cage and the midplate.


What a mess!


There's a shot of the piece of foam I use to seal the PSU fan from the airflow into the case. It works really well to allow the case fans to draw in air unaffected.


More shavings, HDD cage removed...


Wear your safety glasses kids! Yes, I have 'real' lenses for those too, they make an appearance later.


Midplate freed. I had to bend up the slide-lock tabs that tie into the mobo tray. I didn't cut them off and when I finished the build I bent them back to lock everything together.


Midplate and hot-swap rack removed.


Here's a shot of the giant rubber pad that supports and dampens the hotswap rack.


Mockup of the rad. Look at the clearance!


Paper-thin gap... Note the PSU rail sitting under the rad.


So I had to trim it down.




And drill a new mounting hole.


Riveted in, and Sharpie'd on the end.


Mocked up with the PSU.


Shot of the garage worksite, and my shoe.


When I was mocking up the midplate I realized that I had to remove the lip under the hotswap rack so that the midplate could slide down from the top with the rads in place.


Too many cutting wheels later, the lip is gone...


Test fitting the rad and midplate together, note the notch in the edge of the midplate for the rad.


Another angle. Also note the 120 brackets on the midplate are still in place. For now.




Teaser shot of the big rad on the side.


Imagine the 240 on this side...


Leatherman + Maglite, what else do you need?


Here's the other rad test-fitted. LTR: MCR320-push fans-space-MCR220-pull fans. This arrangement draws in cool air from the bottom and exhausts it out the sides.


One of my favorite features... This sneaky cut allows for the line running from the pump to the bottom rads to be stealthed behind the hotswap rack coverplate.


C-channel around the edge.


Test fit.


The bulge is because the tubing is cut to length, but not pressed onto the barb yet.


Here I've removed the 120 mount from the midplate and lined the edge with C-channel. The stuff is amazing for modders!


Removed the mockup, time to cut that intake slot.

Edited by SaltwaterCooled - 1/16/11 at 6:11pm
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post #2 of 90
How did you remove the bottom HDD cage? Ive been trying to remove mine since i got the 800D!

EDIT: Just checked it out, looking good. Is it difficult to remove the cage with the drill or is it a two second job?
Edited by Exarphcoman antabitom - 12/20/10 at 7:38am
    
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post #3 of 90
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Exarphcomanantabitom View Post
How did you remove the bottom HDD cage? Ive been trying to remove mine since i got the 800D!

EDIT: Just checked it out, looking good. Is it difficult to remove the cage with the drill or is it a two second job?
It's not too bad, but not a two second job. There are the six rivets to take off in the front and then there are two more that tie the lower cage to the midplate that are located inside the cage on it's roof. Those last two are the trickiest, but a little patience and a dremel or pliers or file etc will remove them. After that you just slide the cage back and wriggle it out, it's actually just two side plates instead of a full cage so it's not too hard to pop them off the retaining tabs. Remember that the top two rivets that you remove from the front will need to be replaced, you remove them to allow some flexibility in the midplate, but you'll want to anchor it back in once the cage is out.
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post #4 of 90
Rebuild looks really good. Nice job
    
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post #5 of 90
Thread Starter 
Here are more pics, I have a few more to add from the past week with it all put together and running to follow shortly. Since I haven't recieved the side panel I need yet I haven't gotten around to modding the side vents, so I've been running it without the doors- I'll add the pictures of them when I finish the mods.


Intake marked off and corners punched.


Corners drilled.


C-channel'd.


Here's the lip I removed earlier.


Another pass-through; This one allows the line from the bottom rads to come up and feed the GPUs.


Test fit with the 360 and the door. All the fan spaces will have grills eventually.


Starting to add tubing, it's getting exciting!


Another line added, this is from the pump to the motherboard.


T-line and fillport added. starting to add drives back in...


Now for a science lesson.


Fittings with aluminum scale from a previously corroded loop. I needed the fittings so I pulled them out of the toolbox to see if I could clean them up. White vinegar worked wonders.


Very gunked up CPU block. I had no idea that it had gotten this bad, there was literally no gunk anywhere else in the loop! Apparently the GTZ makes a great filter...


More...


Vinegar + boiling water + toothbrush + time...





Bare CPU.


Brand new MX-4, I wanted to try the newest generation and compare it unscientifically to AS-5. I was concerned that with my desire to fold 24/7, that AS-5 wouldn't properly burn-in and MX-4 is supposed to not have a burn-in period, AND perform better anyway. Ahh progress.


SLI 8800 GTS 512's, covered in some EK goodness. You can see the great Koolance VL3N quick disconnects, they're great! And as promised, the real lenses for my glasses. And my phone, Go Blue!


Starting to fit the tubing on, I'm using 7/16x5/8 for a clampless look, and it's worked wonderfully, I highly recommend it. The Campbell's thermos has the hot water I used to soften the tubing to allow it to fit over the 1/2" barbs.


Motherboard and top rad conected. You can see the UV cathode attached to the fans. All that shiny silver and sleek clampless blue tubing...


One of my favorite shots, the lighting really captures the dark blue of the tubing and the brilliance of the silver fittings.




More of the board and rad.




Board and rad installed; I decided it was easier to plumb them out of the case together, which was a smart decision, but it made it tricky mounting them, I had to enlist some help to screw them in while I held them in place.




All plumbed and installed, ready for some Ice Mountain! Note that with the location of the QDCs I can isolate the GPUs for testing and swapping without the need to drain the whole loop. It really was an aspect of the loop that paid dividends when my 8800's started acting up.


I love that clampless look. The board and the case looks so good in this shot, a little empty though...


Since my stop-fitting is threaded, I added a scrap piece of tube to the funnel and a barb on the other end, so that I can easily fill and then just have the stop-fitting to hide away instead of a big fillport. The ziptie made a great temporary attachment for the fill so I could switch the pump and pour as needed. Drives that are easily removed are taken out for the filling.


Another shot of the fill setup, time to add water to my 'small appliance' as listed on the bottle.

Edited by SaltwaterCooled - 1/16/11 at 7:09pm
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post #6 of 90
Thread Starter 
Bump for a thread that I would've thought would get more attention, I'm pretty sure no one else has done something like this before...
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post #7 of 90
Looking good , need to redo mine soon as the pump is at RMA what tubing is that ?
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post #8 of 90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xraven771 View Post
Looking good , need to redo mine soon as the pump is at RMA what tubing is that ?
Primochill 7/16 x 5/8" UV blue, it's great- I have it on 1/2" barbs and it seals really nicely. I had to use hot water to expand the tubing to install it and it's running perfectly without clamps. I'll add some UV shots later, I'm really happy with the look. I used to run Tygon with Feser Clear/UV Blue dye, but after seeing the tubing get cloudy and the gunk in the CPU block I'm sticking to straight distilled and colored tubing from now on. Thanks for looking, let me know if you have other questions!
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post #9 of 90
Thread Starter 
Bump - I really can't believe there's no interest in this build, where are you guys?! I'm pretty sure that this is an OCN innovation right here, I'd hoped for a bit more interest...
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AC Mk-800 Cobra
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post #10 of 90
Thread Starter 
Bueller? Bueller..? Anyone, this is a little disappointing for the case mod section and formerly the WC section...Any tips on what I should do to make the log more popular/easy to follow?
AC Mk-800 Cobra
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AC Mk-800 Cobra
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Win-7 Pro x64 HP LP3065 30" 2560x1600 Dell 1600x1200 Portrait Monoprice Gaming Keyboard w/ MX Blacks 
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