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post #11 of 23
I would recommend the Silver Arrow or the D-14.
They are both excellent air coolers and they should easily handle your overclock. The stock fans will do just fine.

They are on par with my old IFX-14 cooler and it can hold a 4.5 OC just fine.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11...2_AM2_AM3.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/99...?tl=g40c14s757

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post #12 of 23
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Machiyariko View Post
I would recommend the Silver Arrow or the D-14.
They are both excellent air coolers and they should easily handle your overclock. The stock fans will do just fine.

They are on par with my old IFX-14 cooler and it can hold a 4.5 OC just fine.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11...2_AM2_AM3.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/99...?tl=g40c14s757

Wow that is impressive. The only thing left I really have to consider is how close to those temperatures can I get using a Megahalems or a Mugen 2? If 3 degrees or more I'll probably opt for the NH-D14..
Edited by Airolden - 12/26/10 at 12:08am
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post #13 of 23
If I had to guess I would say 7-8c more for the Megahalem and Mugen 2.
The larger surface area of these dual tower coolers allows the heat to dissipate very rapidly which helps immensely when your operating at the upper reaches of what air cooling can do. The smaller coolers just wont be able to keep up under such a high load.

Take if from an experienced air cooler:
Get the D-14 or the Silver arrow and put a shroud on it. Problem solved.
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post #14 of 23
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Machiyariko View Post
If I had to guess I would say 7-8c more for the Megahalem and Mugen 2.
The larger surface area of these dual tower coolers allows the heat to dissipate very rapidly which helps immensely when your operating at the upper reaches of what air cooling can do. The smaller coolers just wont be able to keep up under such a high load.

Take if from an experienced air cooler:
Get the D-14 or the Silver arrow and put a shroud on it. Problem solved.
Hmm okay I think I will opt for an NH-D14.

A shroud is something I've been hearing a lot about lately but I'm not entirely sure of its purpose.. What exactly is it and what does it do? Will I see a serious temperature difference using a shroud?
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post #15 of 23
Basically it helps focus the outside colder air directly onto the heatsink, and then it helps the hot air exit the case rapidly.

Here is an analogy:

Think of your room as your PC case.
Your door is the front of your case and your window is the rear.
Your cpu is in the middle of your room.
The standard setup is to have a fan in the door and a fan in the window.
Air moves into the room, mixes with the other air in the room and is pushed out through the window fan.
You can imagine that the air does not necessarily move out quickly is all cases.
Sometimes it will hang out for a little while and therefore increase the temperature of the room as a whole.

With the shroud method, imagine if you ran a tube from the door fan directly to the heatsink, and the then directly to the window fan.
The colder outside air gets to the heatsink faster and colder.
And the warm air created by the heatsink exits the room immediately, not allowing it to mix with the room air and heat it up.

That pretty much sums it up in an easy to understand way.

It's not the best solution in any case but it can help if setup properly.

Here are some tests I did with my current setup:

No shroud


Shroud



Hope I helped.
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post #16 of 23
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Machiyariko View Post
Basically it helps focus the outside colder air directly onto the heatsink, and then it helps the hot air exit the case rapidly.

Here is an analogy:

Think of your room as your PC case.
Your door is the front of your case and your window is the rear.
Your cpu is in the middle of your room.
The standard setup is to have a fan in the door and a fan in the window.
Air moves into the room, mixes with the other air in the room and is pushed out through the window fan.
You can imagine that the air does not necessarily move out quickly is all cases.
Sometimes it will hang out for a little while and therefore increase the temperature of the room as a whole.

With the shroud method, imagine if you ran a tube from the door fan directly to the heatsink, and the then directly to the window fan.
The colder outside air gets to the heatsink faster and colder.
And the warm air created by the heatsink exits the room immediately, not allowing it to mix with the room air and heat it up.

That pretty much sums it up in an easy to understand way.

It's not the best solution in any case but it can help if setup properly.

Here are some tests I did with my current setup:

No shroud


Shroud



Hope I helped.
Oh wow that is very helpful and very useful. Where would I get a shroud? Or would I make one myself? What does one even look like? haha
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post #17 of 23
Ok well the easiest way is to make one. I see that you have the NZXT Phantom case. It's not ideal for a shroud but we can easily make it work.

First we need to figure out where the heatsink will line up in the case. Usually it is in line with some of the 5.25 bays.
We need to add a fan to the front of the case to act as an intake. We want the front and rear fan to be to be a higher speed fan that the heatsink fans. This will help the shroud work.
You can use something like this Sythe Bay Kama thing or just screw/ziptie a fan to the front grille. http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/ac...00_detail.html
On you case this will work best with the door open and the top 3 5.25 bays being occupied by a fan. Or a little below the 3rd bay from the top.

Next we need to measure how large our shroud needs to be.
You will measure from the front fan to the back exhaust fan and then to the top and bottom of the heatsink. We are trying to section off that part of the case.

You can then make a plexi U shaped box that will encapsulate the shroud and focus the airflow.
Like this one:


Here is a demonstration of what I mean.

In the first picture, you see that there is a intake area in the front mesh, and it lines up all the way to the exhaust in the back.


Once we make the plexi box it fits right over the heatsink.



We are basically trying to make a tunnel from the front to the heatsink and then to the back. And trying to keep the air moving in and out quickly.
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post #18 of 23
Thread Starter 
Thank you for a very thorough explanation.

What if I instead decided to get an XSPC Rasa 750 RS240, would I see a significant cooling difference?
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post #19 of 23
Machiyariko's advice looks very good.

I have a D14, and I like it a lot. OTOH, the Silver Arrow will cool better, it has quieter fans and it costs less. The new kid on the block is the Archon. Only a few comparative reviews, but with two TY-140's (stock fan for the Archon and The Silver Arrow), it has been beating out the other coolers.

The only drawback to the Archon is its height: 170mm. The SA and the D14 don't go over 160mm.

Anyway, you won't go wrong with any of the three coolers.
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post #20 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Airolden View Post
Thank you for a very thorough explanation.

What if I instead decided to get an XSPC Rasa 750 RS240, would I see a significant cooling difference?
The difference won't be massive at low OCs but once you get above like 4.1 or so where air starts to get really iffy, water will always prevail. You'll cut temps by a whole lot, there's plenty of guys here on RS240s with 4.xGHz stable 24/7 OCs.

Heres a good air/RS240 comparison between a very good air cooler (the megahalems) vs an RS240 at 4GHz

http://www.overclock.net/11243881-post139.html


EDIT: I just noticed that his i5 750 is running at 1.425v. I get a 4.1GHz OC with 1.368v so if your i7 OCs better than this guys apparently crappy i5, you'll be able to easily pull 4.2 and higher.
Edited by pencil364 - 12/26/10 at 6:12pm
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