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Three simple questions for XSPC rasa 750 HELP

post #1 of 16
Thread Starter 
For Christmas, I got a liquid cooling system for my CPU, and I have a couple of questions that I don't think anyone is experienced enough to answer.The lack of instructions was really annoying, and because I have no experience with liquid cooling, I researched the basics but I still have some problems.

Here is the system:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11...l=g30c321s1310

Here are my questions; two are pretty simple and one is technical.

1) My first question is about thermal paste. Obviously, the stock i7's heatsink was taken off, leaving some cheap thermal paste there. However, to remove it, internet sources have said to use alcohol, gunkOff, and other stuff like that. The only thing I have available is 70% alcohol wipes, which I used to take the thermal paste off. However, there is still a "residue left there, which I think was burned on.
To get a better picture, its like writing on a piece of paper. That word you wrote is the thermal paste. Once you erase the word, there is a residue of the word still on the paper. That residue is like the thermal paste on the CPU. Is this ok, or does the CPu have to be shiny clean?

2) The pump comes with a 2 pin molex cable, which I have never seen before. I do not know where its supposed to plug in. I have a modular power supply, and I tried to connect this two pin molex into a four pin molex receiver, and it didnt fit.
Here's a picture:
http://forums.techguy.org/hardware/9...-pin-male.html
Where do I plug this into?

3) Finally, WHERE ARE THE INSTRUCTIONS XSPC
Can someone reference me the best thread to learn, in detail, how to set up a system like this. It took me like 30 minutes to figure out where the in and out are in the pump. Also, I hand tightened the barbs. They are tight enough that I can not tighten them any more and that i cant easily unscrew them. Is this ok?I also put clamps around them. Before, they were lose, and I already put the hoses on them, so I had to cut one off which was SUPER annoying to do. IS there a way to pull off the hoses (I know the pressure is what makes it so hard to come off). Also, how to I test the circuit for leaks? I have that 24-pin connector with only two pins in it, but I dont know what to do from there.

Thank you guys so much, I have been working for 8+ hours to be sure I dont screw anything up. Right now I have the hoses on, but I cant figure out how to power the thing.

I would say I am an expert on the hardware of computers, but when it comes to water cooling, its like a whole other level.

Thanks.
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post #2 of 16
(The only thing I have available is 70% alcohol wipes)you can use these,just make sure you get all the old TIM off.
pump plugs into PSU.
I don't think there are any instructions for this kit,refer your questions to this thread here:http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...-rs-rx120.html
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post #3 of 16
I can maybe help with 1 and 2.

1) It's hard to say without seeing a picture of it. I know I am not suppose to, but I have always used 70% and a nice lint free cloth (like an eye glass cleaning cloth) to clean thermal paste. I have never had a problem getting it clean.

2) That is a molex connector and should plug into your PSU's molex connector. Make sure the little silver pins in the pump's molex are lined up. Sometimes they will get miss aligned and it will not want to plug in.
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post #4 of 16
What do you mean residue? Try to get as much of it off as possible. I used alcohol and cue tips.

That 2-pin molex will fit into one coming out of your PSU. Just make sure you hook up female to male like any other connection...

There really isn't a need for instructions since it varies from build to build. Just make sure you tighten all the clamps and fill with distilled water plus a killcoil/pt-nuke.
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post #5 of 16
Thread Starter 
Can you guys send me a picture from google or somewhere to what your supposed to plug in the two in connector to.
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post #6 of 16
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post #7 of 16
Yep, the pump plugs into the regular molex connector coming from the PSU. Also, for the fittings hand tight is fine. No need to get out a wrench and potentially strip the threads on your block or pump.
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post #8 of 16
Thread Starter 
Alright guys, I got everything to work.

I plugged in the 24 slot connector to the power supply to power on the motor. The UV liquid went through and drained into radiator, and I added some more.

My next question. Now that the liquid is flowing through, I notice tiny air bubbles on the top of the hoses. Even when I hit them they stay there. Is this ok?

They are pretty small, but what should I do now? Should I let it run for a long time and check for leaks?
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post #9 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by eurosport360 View Post
Alright guys, I got everything to work.

I plugged in the 24 slot connector to the power supply to power on the motor. The UV liquid went through and drained into radiator, and I added some more.

My next question. Now that the liquid is flowing through, I notice tiny air bubbles on the top of the hoses. Even when I hit them they stay there. Is this ok?

They are pretty small, but what should I do now? Should I let it run for a long time and check for leaks?
Yes, just let the loop run for about 2-3 hours right now. All of the bubbles should disappear and shouldn't have any leaks. It may help to plug one of your UV lights in so that any leaks will become very obvious (although I doubt you will get one).

I personally wouldn't use dyes at all because they leave gunk in your loop - but if that's what you want - go for it. Here is an example of what the inside of a CPU block will look like after using dyes in your loop:


Source
Edited by charliehorse55 - 12/26/10 at 4:27pm
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post #10 of 16
never use dyes,they will void your warranty,use distilled water and/or pt-nuke,kill-coil
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