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how flat is the h50? Should I lap it? - Page 3

post #21 of 36
Thread Starter 
Can any1 else tell me how much lapping it dropped temps? I think I am going to see what temps are and lap after if I am not satisfied. But if you got that big of a drop its well worth it. It also saddens me to see that big of a change because the h50 must not be very flat then.
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post #22 of 36
Thread Starter 
Sorry for double post but its been almost 24 hours so I think its ok.

I want to know if any1 else has gotten a temp decrease from lapping it. I already have the sand paper so I think I am just going to do it tomorrow. Just need to get some new 600 and 800 grit, maybe go to 2000 (only have up to 1500 atm).
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post #23 of 36
I lapped my H50 to 2500 grit and saw a good drop in temps. Mine wasn't as easy to measure- I use 3k RPM UltraKazes and before lapping I had to have them cranked all the way up to 12v to cool at load, now after lapping I don't have to raise them above 7v to keep temps at the same level. Same temps, I was just able to lower fan speed to a more tolerable level.

On another note my H50 was extremely concave. It took a while to wear down the edges with lower grits before I even started touching the center of the copper. It amazed me how much less TIM I had to use after lapping compared to before.

As for the i7 I'm sure there is a guide out there or someone on here can tell you how far into the heat spreader you can go, google will be your friend.

Good luck.
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post #24 of 36
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Loune View Post
I lapped my H50 to 2500 grit and saw a good drop in temps. Mine wasn't as easy to measure- I use 3k RPM UltraKazes and before lapping I had to have them cranked all the way up to 12v to cool at load, now after lapping I don't have to raise them above 7v to keep temps at the same level. Same temps, I was just able to lower fan speed to a more tolerable level.

On another note my H50 was extremely concave. It took a while to wear down the edges with lower grits before I even started touching the center of the copper. It amazed me how much less TIM I had to use after lapping compared to before.

As for the i7 I'm sure there is a guide out there or someone on here can tell you how far into the heat spreader you can go, google will be your friend.

Good luck.
I am not lapping my cpu due to the pins being attached to amd cpus. That being said I appreciate your information. I think I am going to start at a lower grit because when I look at the thing it looks flat but its definetly not smoothe. I can run my nail across it and feel grooves which is unacceptable. I am even getting worse temps with it than my lapped TRUE gave me (granted the as5 hasnt cured yet and I need another yate loon for the push pull to be better).
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post #25 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by ckybam3 View Post
I am not lapping my cpu due to the pins being attached to amd cpus. That being said I appreciate your information. I think I am going to start at a lower grit because when I look at the thing it looks flat but its definetly not smoothe. I can run my nail across it and feel grooves which is unacceptable. I am even getting worse temps with it than my lapped TRUE gave me (granted the as5 hasnt cured yet and I need another yate loon for the push pull to be better).
Wimp .

Seriously though, lapping a CPU is just as easy. If you still have that little CPU tray that the CPU came packaged in, use that to keep your pins from getting damaged . I lapped several Socket 939 CPU's doing that. My old x2 3800+ was overheating at stock (85*C with a decent cooler), lapped it down to the point I had to use washers on the heatsink....load temps went to 55*C .
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post #26 of 36
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pioneerisloud View Post
Wimp .

Seriously though, lapping a CPU is just as easy. If you still have that little CPU tray that the CPU came packaged in, use that to keep your pins from getting damaged . I lapped several Socket 939 CPU's doing that. My old x2 3800+ was overheating at stock (85*C with a decent cooler), lapped it down to the point I had to use washers on the heatsink....load temps went to 55*C .
Still makes me nervous and loosing warranty . Also I have this theory that keeping things as close to stock as possible keeps the resale value up and I dont plan to keep this setup forever (wanting higher resale ofc). waiting for SB and Bulldozer to see what happens. Might build a cheap used i7 at that point (used x58 that is)
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post #27 of 36
I say go for it just use some anti static foam over your pins and you should be good with that.. just take your time and be careful but other than that it should lower your temps ALOT!
    
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post #28 of 36
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveClay View Post
I say go for it just use some anti static foam over your pins and you should be good with that.. just take your time and be careful but other than that it should lower your temps ALOT!
I think I am going to see what my temps do after just lapping the h50 then decide if i wanna lap cpu (im sure i will, damn overclocking )
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post #29 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by ckybam3 View Post
I am not lapping my cpu due to the pins being attached to amd cpus. That being said I appreciate your information. I think I am going to start at a lower grit because when I look at the thing it looks flat but its definetly not smoothe. I can run my nail across it and feel grooves which is unacceptable. I am even getting worse temps with it than my lapped TRUE gave me (granted the as5 hasnt cured yet and I need another yate loon for the push pull to be better).
Luckily the pins on AMD processors are attached with a ball and socket design so they can be straightened very easily with a metal nail file run through the rows. IDK about Intel.

If you want to smooth things you use a higher grit. Remove smaller amount of material to just remove high points.

If you want to flatten them you use a lower grit, lower grits remove more material because they are coarser. They grab larger chunks of material.

Any groove that you can feel with your nail is either very wide or very deep, either way it will take a fair amount of material removal.

Take a piece of known straight metal like a piece of flat bar from a hardware store and shine a light back towards you between the flat bar and the H50's heat-sink and you will see light.

I'm not trying to sell you one doing a full lap, just telling you how it is. It's flat compared to $12 microcenter coolers, but my ole' Rosewill RCX-Z2-EX cooler was much flatter than the H50 though-less smooth though.

I'm a mechanic by trade and when rebuilding engines and you find a groove on a crankshaft journal you can bet that if you can feel it with your nail it is quite deep or wide(in relative terms).

Thousandths of an inch of extra TIM and less copper-copper contact can decrease cooling ability greatly. Here TIM is like an insulator compared to copper, more TIM and less copper contact=less efficiency.

This article posted on Techpower up does a pretty good job of explaining it.
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post #30 of 36
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Loune View Post
Luckily the pins on AMD processors are attached with a ball and socket design so they can be straightened very easily with a metal nail file run through the rows. IDK about Intel.

If you want to smooth things you use a higher grit. Remove smaller amount of material to just remove high points.

If you want to flatten them you use a lower grit, lower grits remove more material because they are coarser. They grab larger chunks of material.

Any groove that you can feel with your nail is either very wide or very deep, either way it will take a fair amount of material removal.

Take a piece of known straight metal like a piece of flat bar from a hardware store and shine a light back towards you between the flat bar and the H50's heat-sink and you will see light.

I'm not trying to sell you one doing a full lap, just telling you how it is. It's flat compared to $12 microcenter coolers, but my ole' Rosewill RCX-Z2-EX cooler was much flatter than the H50 though-less smooth though.

I'm a mechanic by trade and when rebuilding engines and you find a groove on a crankshaft journal you can bet that if you can feel it with your nail it is quite deep or wide(in relative terms).

Thousandths of an inch of extra TIM and less copper-copper contact can decrease cooling ability greatly. Here TIM is like an insulator compared to copper, more TIM and less copper contact=less efficiency.

This article posted on Techpower up does a pretty good job of explaining it.
I understand that and actually lapped it before you posted . That being said what do you think of my lap job? pics here

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...y-h50-lap.html

went to 2000 grit.
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