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A few water cooling questions

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
Hey guys, I have a few questions about water cooling.

First, what are some good ways to mount a rad to the back of your case?

Second, is it possible to install a gpu only block onto the gtx 580 without modification? and use the stock memory/vrm cooling plate?

And thirdly, how do you drain your loop? I know how to get the water into the loop, but don't really see any good methods of how to remove it or replace it. Also, how often does this need to be done?

Thanks!
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post #2 of 11

I have seen people use Swiftech Radbox's before, but you could probably get away with an empty 120 fan as a spacer.

nevergive7 made a good video showing how to drain a loop, skip to 12:30


Edited by Blackout51 - 12/29/10 at 11:43pm
    
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post #3 of 11
1. I haven't had a case in a long time, but I believe people use a gutted 120mm fan to move the rad away from the back and bolts from the rad to the case to hold it in place. I believe swiftech might even make a kit for this.

2. A universal gpu block? Maybe. A gpu block made for the 580, probably not .

3. If you plan on draining your loop regularly, putting a t-line in the lowest point of the loop is your best bet.
 
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post #4 of 11
1. Swiftech radbox is cheap or a 120mm shorud
2. if u buy a full cover block it does it all, universnal u will need ram and crm sinks
3. a t-line with drain plug. i just take my res off and take one of the caps off and pore it out then take a tube off and blow the water out
Edited by ShortySmalls - 12/30/10 at 12:04am
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post #5 of 11
1. I don't like the plastic Radbox, the original metal versions were much stronger. Another issue I have with the Radbox is the limited distance it creates between pull fans and the case. Impromptu tests with a Kestrel 4200 (calibrated last month) indicated a min 6 inches of distance was required for my fans to reach max CFM (velocity drop being the culprit). Noise levels also increased when fans were not allocated appropriate distances from the case. The EK-UNI RAD Holder is also an option, you can double up on them without issue. However, the issues regarding increased noise levels and the inability to reach max CFM persist as there is simply not enough distance created, even with two EK-UNI RAD Holders installed. My workaround involved screwing four L brackets to my shrouds and to the desk, keeping the distance between the back of the case and the pull fans at a min of 6 inches. Another option would be to thread the rad, or shroud mounts to #10-32, or equivalent. This will allow you to use longer, stronger screws to further offset the rad from the case.

2. It should be possible as the Swiftech MCW80 appears to fit the bill.

3. I have enough slack to move my res out of the box before turning it upside down, keeping it well below the level of the pump/rad. Else, I would attach a short section of tubing to the lowest port of the res, ensuring that the tubing is long enough to reach a bucket before terminating it with a sealing plug before securing it to the case. A cleaner way would be to stub a QDC. I plan to drain and fill three times a year, once before summer and once after summer at minimum.
Edited by adamlau - 12/30/10 at 2:14am
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post #6 of 11
I agree the new Radbox sucks. The Radboxs made out of metal was a lot more solid mount and not as flimsy as the plastic crap. If you need more distance just add a shroud between the Radbox and the fan mounted on the rad.
post #7 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Behemoth777 View Post
Hey guys, I have a few questions about water cooling.

First, what are some good ways to mount a rad to the back of your case?

Second, is it possible to install a gpu only block onto the gtx 580 without modification? and use the stock memory/vrm cooling plate?

And thirdly, how do you drain your loop? I know how to get the water into the loop, but don't really see any good methods of how to remove it or replace it. Also, how often does this need to be done?

Thanks!
Q1, if its a single Rad your mounting you can mount Via the fan, if not then there are mounting brackets you can purchse from places like Frozen CPU and other stores,


Q2, It is possible but not advised as the VRM's need to be air cooled , Which defeates the idea of watercooling, if i was you idspend the $100 on the full cover block and enjoy the cooling results

Q3 You can add a "T/Y" Connector and add a pece of tubeing and a plug in the end to drain or you can take out all your components and then disconnect a pice of the loop and tilt the case to empty the liquid


Hope this helped you
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post #8 of 11
Thread Starter 
Wow, thanks for all the responses guys!

I have seen the radbox, and it doesn't look very sturdy at all. While I was browsing some time ago I saw this kit by koolance, which actually looks very nice, but I just wanted to ask you guys if there were any alternatives that didn't cost so much lol. I might just go for it anyways, since it is a high quality unit.

Also, do you guys think it would be best to go for a full cover block for my 580 instead of a gpu only block? Would it throw a bunch of heat into my loop that is not needed?
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post #9 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Behemoth777 View Post
Wow, thanks for all the responses guys!

I have seen the radbox, and it doesn't look very sturdy at all. While I was browsing some time ago I saw this kit by koolance, which actually looks very nice, but I just wanted to ask you guys if there were any alternatives that didn't cost so much lol. I might just go for it anyways, since it is a high quality unit.

Also, do you guys think it would be best to go for a full cover block for my 580 instead of a gpu only block? Would it throw a bunch of heat into my loop that is not needed?
I'm using a radbox now, plastic type. It don't look like much, but it'll do the trick. I currently have it redneck-rigged with some rope hung off the handle of my Raven2 with a 240mm rad hung off of it...until I have some better drill bits on hand to drill through multiple layers of 0.8mm steel.
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post #10 of 11
As far as a radbox goes... I just made my own out 1" angled aluminum. A 4 foot piece only cost about $8.00, and then a couple bucks for the hardware.



Not sure about the extra heat VRM's and DRAM throw into the loop, but a full cover block does look better. Kind of depends on how you go about building/upgrading your rig. If you swap out GPU's relatively often, then a universal GPU block is the way to go. If your going for aesthetics, then a full cover block would be my choice.
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