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Removing nickel plating on cpu while lapping - Page 2

post #11 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by iEATu View Post
That's one reason I want to lap my cpu, other than the reason that the IHS and the heatsink for my stock cooler (yes I don't have an aftermarket yet) has a bunch of scratches. I used a blade to smooth out the thermal paste, not realizing the copper would be cut so easily. Now I use a credit card

I was thinking of getting the Zalman cnps8700 led heatsink. The case I have has a cpu vent and this cpu cooler is short and faces upward instead of to the side like others. It's called Apevia x-plorer.

Another question: why is the IHS curved? Is it to protect the cpu better?
Manufacturing defect. When factories are churning out thousands of CPU's a day, you are not going to be able to make sure each once is completely flat and TBH, I don't think Intel or AMD particularly cares either. Curvature of the IHS doesn't make much difference for general consumers, unless it is really badly curved, in which case the system typically shuts down from overheating anyways. I still remember when water coolers were using thicker O-rings to bend the copper base of blocks slightly for better contact due to not wanting to lap the CPU and void the warranty. I also believe that block makers like Swiftech and D-Tek also experimented with convex bases, though I have no idea if the practice is still in place. My last block was a Fuzion V2 and XSPC Edge V1 and many blocks and revisions have taken place since.
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post #12 of 22
Thread Starter 
That's weird, considering the base of the stock heatsink is so good. It's kind of like trying to match those little kids' blocks with a circle hole and a square block.
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post #13 of 22
Base of the stock heatsinks are typically a thin round copper plate welded on to an aluminum heatsink with a crappy loud fan. Thin coper plates are easy to manufacture and ensure flatness. IHS on the other hand are thin to begin with and typically "stamped" on to the CPU itself, resulting in typically a concave IHS top.
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post #14 of 22
Yea.. You put AS5 or better and a cooler on it.. That will be all you need. There is no H2O anywhere in that heated area to corrode anything
    
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post #15 of 22
Thread Starter 
Well thanks for all the info OC'ing Noob. Rep +
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post #16 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by OC'ing Noob View Post
Nickel plating is there mainly to prevent oxidation of copper by sealing it under the coating. It's heat transfer abilities aren't as good, though the temp drops are within a few degrees at the most. However, for enthusiasts fighting for every last degree, this is something that we do away with. We get rid of the oxidation issue however, by immediately covering the copper with thermal paste and mount the heatsink or waterblock on top immediately to prevent as much contact with O2 as possible.
Nickel plating is so thin that the temp drops aren't measurable.
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post #17 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by DuckieHo View Post
Nickel plating is so thin that the temp drops aren't measurable.
You are most likely right, which is why I say at most. It is kind of hard for me to say either way, because I lap for the purpose of making the IHS flat. The copper being revealed is just an added bonus. I did get a 7 degrees drop lapping my Q6600, but like I said, that is probably more from the curvature being lapped away.
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post #18 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by iEATu View Post
That's one reason I want to lap my cpu, other than the reason that the IHS and the heatsink for my stock cooler (yes I don't have an aftermarket yet) has a bunch of scratches. I used a blade to smooth out the thermal paste, not realizing the copper would be cut so easily. Now I use a credit card
Spreading the TIM out is a bad idea. When you do so, you introduce lots of areas where air-pockets can form within the TIM. And as we all know here on OCN, air is not a very effective medium for transferring heat.

The best way to apply TIM is to simply put a small glob in the very center of the IHS, and let the pressure from mounting the cooler spread it out.

Watch this video:
Quote:
Originally Posted by iEATu View Post
Another question: why is the IHS curved? Is it to protect the cpu better?
It's due to the manufacturing process. The IHS's are stamped, so a bg machine drops down and cuts each one out of a big piece of metal. While sure the IHS are pretty close to flat, within .010", that small of a distance can actually impede heat transfer, especially if coupled to a concave cooler base. (I had that happen with a Thermaltake V1 and a 939 CPU, cooled worse than stock).
Quote:
Originally Posted by OC'ing Noob View Post
Base of the stock heatsinks are typically a thin round copper plate welded on to an aluminum heatsink with a crappy loud fan. Thin coper plates are easy to manufacture and ensure flatness. IHS on the other hand are thin to begin with and typically "stamped" on to the CPU itself, resulting in typically a concave IHS top.
The Intel ones are really thin in comparison to the AMD ones, which are ~1/8" thick.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DuckieHo View Post
Nickel plating is so thin that the temp drops aren't measurable.
That's usually not the point of lapping, but rather an added bonus. The point is to make the contact surface completely flat.
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post #19 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackOmega View Post
Spreading the TIM out is a bad idea. When you do so, you introduce lots of areas where air-pockets can form within the TIM. And as we all know here on OCN, air is not a very effective medium for transferring heat.

The best way to apply TIM is to simply put a small glob in the very center of the IHS, and let the pressure from mounting the cooler spread it out.
This is typically correct, but not always the case. it is also dependent on type of TIM as well as design of the heatsink. For example, if a heatsink uses heatpipes that help make up the base like the Xigmatek Red Scorpion, then you need to place a strip of TIM usually on each heatpipe. Some TIM also need to be spread and comes with a little plastic spread tool.
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post #20 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by OC'ing Noob View Post
This is typically correct, but not always the case. it is also dependent on type of TIM as well as design of the heatsink. For example, if a heatsink uses heatpipes that help make up the base like the Xigmatek Red Scorpion, then you need to place a strip of TIM usually on each heatpipe. Some TIM also need to be spread and comes with a little plastic spread tool.
I've used the 2 line method on my Xiggy, and it seems to work well. I read a review about it some time ago, and this particular method worked out best. (Not putting the TIM on the heatpipes, but rather putting them on the dividers next to them.)


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