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cold welding acrylic - Page 2

post #11 of 18
As above just make sure your joints are very clean cut. Also, make sure you don't get any on your fingers when you handle the plastic. It will leave horrible fingerprints and smudges. I highly suggest you leave the contact paper on everything except the immediate areas you are bonding.

I used to do a lot of acrylic work when I worked for my father's museum exhibit fabrication company. If there is one thing I learned about working with acrylic it is to leave the contact paper on until the project is completely finished. It's amazing how easy it is to get an accidental drop of glue or smudge on a pristine piece of acrylic. Then all you see is the blemish...
    
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post #12 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Epitope View Post
As above just make sure your joints are very clean cut. Also, make sure you don't get any on your fingers when you handle the plastic. It will leave horrible fingerprints and smudges. I highly suggest you leave the contact paper on everything except the immediate areas you are bonding.

I used to do a lot of acrylic work when I worked for my father's museum exhibit fabrication company. If there is one thing I learned about working with acrylic it is to leave the contact paper on until the project is completely finished. It's amazing how easy it is to get an accidental drop of glue or smudge on a pristine piece of acrylic. Then all you see is the blemish...
I found a easy fix for this. I got 3M rubbing compound and a buffing pad for my sander, and I clean any thing off

You can use 600 grit to sand the edge smooth just make sure to use a block as to not round the edges.
If you don't have clean cuts you can go back and fill it in with ips 16 but you will see a white color in the joint.

But yes leave on the paper except where welding of coarse.
Edited by cayennemist - 1/4/11 at 12:22pm
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post #13 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cayennemist View Post
I my self have just discovered the joy plastic, Acrylic specifically.
Its called "solvent welding."
I use IPS weld on #3 for most of the welds, but your joints have to be perfect.
If you need something to work like a filler try IPS weld on #16
this video will explain a lot.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hT6Ow_cBTps
One tip about IPS 16, if you apply multiple layers it will get bubbles

I just made a sweet double bay Reservoir like this and plan on doing a lot more stuff.
yeah thanks i've seen it
    
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post #14 of 18
I use tap plastics acrylic solvent. the fast drying version
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post #15 of 18
IPS #3, I work with acrylic every single day and it's all I use, make sure you use a needle applicator and the capillary welding method.
post #16 of 18
im going to jump on the IPS Weld On band wagon too here. we use #s 4 and 6 at work. the guys above me have explained every thing else pretty well (particularly cayennemist) so il just add that you need to make sure ALL of your seams are VERY clean and VERY strait. if they are not you wont get as strong of a bond as you could and you will probably be able to see any imperfections...

just my .02
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post #17 of 18
Thread Starter 
but yeah thaks everyone for posting, it wasn't actually for a case mod, it was for a picture frame that i needed to finish for shop class. i ended up using some extra strength krazy glue instead.
    
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post #18 of 18
Thread Starter 
methyline chloride is hard stuff to find too anyways i'm probbably going to try and find some ips weld on #6 just for the future.
    
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