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i3 mini itx - need water block ideas - h55 - Page 2

post #11 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by the_milk_man View Post
The biggest problem I have seen with high OC's on the mini-itx boards are not burning up the CPU's but rather burning up the PWM's around the chip itself. I have seen SO many fried boards and that is the problem 90% of the time. If I were you I'd get some copper heatsinks for those and have some ventilation going over them.
I agree

Make sure you have some heatsinks

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835708012

and some Arctic silver adhesive

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-005-_-Product
    
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post #12 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Somenamehere View Post
I agree

Make sure you have some heatsinks

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835708012

and some Arctic silver adhesive

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-005-_-Product
+1 on heatsink recommendation. The best around right there.
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post #13 of 30
Water is overkill for an i3 on a Zotac H55-ITX. You'll hit the limits of the board long before heat becomes a problem. The BIOS doesn't have many options for overclocking because the board wasn't designed to overclock. Also, I should warn you that you have to be very careful overclocking the H55-ITX. The vregs on the board aren't meant so supply any significant amount of power and you can blow the mosfets with anything more than a mild overclock.

I actually own a Zotac H55-ITX board- it's sitting right in front of me with an i3 530 in it. I assure you I have researched this board extensively, although I must admit that I have not attempted to overclock with it. Anyway, I remember reading a review about 6 months ago where the reviewer killed his board trying to overclock with it. I'm pretty sure he had an i5 750 in it. You might be able to get an extra 10-20% out of an i3, but I would definitely advise against trying to overclock an i5 if you were to upgrade in the future. From what I've heard this board can barely power an i5 at stock.

Get a half decent air cooler and save your money to spend where it actually counts. A water loop for your sig rig would be a much better investment.
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post #14 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by the_milk_man View Post
The biggest problem I have seen with high OC's on the mini-itx boards are not burning up the CPU's but rather burning up the PWM's around the chip itself. I have seen SO many fried boards and that is the problem 90% of the time. If I were you I'd get some copper heatsinks for those and have some ventilation going over them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Somenamehere View Post
I agree

Make sure you have some heatsinks

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835708012

and some Arctic silver adhesive

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-005-_-Product




Quote:
Originally Posted by jpz View Post
Water is overkill for an i3 on a Zotac H55-ITX. You'll hit the limits of the board long before heat becomes a problem. The BIOS doesn't have many options for overclocking because the board wasn't designed to overclock. Also, I should warn you that you have to be very careful overclocking the H55-ITX. The vregs on the board aren't meant so supply any significant amount of power and you can blow the mosfets with anything more than a mild overclock.

I actually own a Zotac H55-ITX board- it's sitting right in front of me with an i3 530 in it. I assure you I have researched this board extensively, although I must admit that I have not attempted to overclock with it. Anyway, I remember reading a review about 6 months ago where the reviewer killed his board trying to overclock with it. I'm pretty sure he had an i5 750 in it. You might be able to get an extra 10-20% out of an i3, but I would definitely advise against trying to overclock an i5 if you were to upgrade in the future. From what I've heard this board can barely power an i5 at stock.

Get a half decent air cooler and save your money to spend where it actually counts. A water loop for your sig rig would be a much better investment.


Thanks VERY much for the heat sink recommendatinos on the PWM - i will order them now, thats exactly why i posted this thread i will also get a nice fan to keep them cool.

Now on to the grim reality post from jpz. THAT SUCKS! again, very glad i posted this one thank you. Are the vregs the same as the pwm? i think not, just making sure. there is a pitiful heat sink on the zotac (little silver cube thing) that does not look robust at all and would need replacing i think.. Since i already have this thing i'm going to try and at least get it to 4.5.. (3.6GHz on stock volts now, 35C stock cooler). I read that the chip does not work with anything overe 1.4V, so as you all stated i wont have a temperature barrier with this setup.

maybe the fact its an i3 wont draw as much power as an i5 750 quad core... also with the integrated gpu off that should reduce current draw. I know this is not going to be a full out ripper overclock now. wanted to shock the lanparty folk.

edit: i have attached a pic of the board - please clue me in to where the little tape on heat sinks go, and what else i have to worry about (i.e. where are the mosfets and vregs - and do those also need special cooling??)


Edited by twistedneck - 1/2/11 at 9:33pm
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post #15 of 30
Well if it's the C-E revision (which I own), then it already has a heatsink:



EDIT: darn^^
Edited by DevilGear44 - 1/2/11 at 9:37pm
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post #16 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DevilGear44 View Post
Well if it's the C-E revision (which I own), then it already has a heatsink:



EDIT: darn^^
I NEED a new heat sink for the northbridge, i have the old A model w/o usb 3.0 and with the old time heat sink on northbridge - that is obviously a weak link too. the egg has a couple but it looks size constrained.
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post #17 of 30
Actually, 1156 doesn't have a northbridge. Technically that little square heatsink on yours and mine if for the southbridge, and I assure you it doesn't get very warm. The mosfets are far more important; don't worry about buying a useless block.
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post #18 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DevilGear44 View Post
Actually, 1156 doesn't have a northbridge. Technically that little square heatsink on yours and mine if for the southbridge, and I assure you it doesn't get very warm. The mosfets are far more important; don't worry about buying a useless block.
NICE! thank you DevilGear44..

Now, do i need to glue those gold mini heat sinks on each cap and each square black vreg? (if thats what they are??)
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post #19 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Somenamehere View Post
I agree

Make sure you have some heatsinks

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835708012

and some Arctic silver adhesive

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-005-_-Product
Just ordered 2 each of the heat sinks and silver paste adhesive. Now on to the water spending spree.. We'll at least find out how far h55 zotac's can go before it starts popping like corn.
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post #20 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by twistedneck View Post
NICE! thank you DevilGear44..

Now, do i need to glue those gold mini heat sinks on each cap and each square black vreg? (if thats what they are??)
You need that arctic silver adhesive. Use it just like thermal paste and it will pretty much stay on forever. The tape they come with can be hit or miss.
    
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