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post #21 of 78
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kung Pow View Post
Ok still got a couple of questions

1.)how will the Phobya G Changer perform with higher rpm from 1000-1500 compared to other top products? Because I might throw my Delta fans on it with a fan controller of course^^those babies go off at 5000 rpm at 12 volts

2.)As in terms of the tubing...I have absolutely not experience with UV reactive material. So I don´t know which one is going to have the stronger UV effect tubing or dye. My main point of getting dyed water would be that it looks cool...that you would be able to actually see the water and bleeding would be much easier as you could see the air in the tubes.On the other hand a lot of people have recommended my distilled water with pt nuke or mayhems biocide as well.
Do you think I would have the clustering and constipation problems if I maintenanced it a lot and changed the dyed water every 3-4 months? This growth and constipatition of blocks etc should be preventable with pt-nuke or biocide right? unfortunetly you can´t use it with dyed water

3.)Right now I am undecided of spending this much money...because I heard the Rasa kits were hitting germany soon ...and I would get it for more then half the price I am about to spend here.I mean what do you think? will it pay off to have bought such high end parts ? or would a rasa kit just do fine as well with a 4.7 i7 and a GTX 595 maybe north/south bridge some day?
1. Don't have enough experience with Phobya G Changer. I suggest you read this review and decide what you want.

http://skinneelabs.com/triplesv2.html

2. If you want color, it's recommended you get UV tubes (Primochill has a wide selection of colors and is unlikely to kink compared to your cheapo tubes that come with RASA kits or Home Depot tubes). The problem with dye is that is separates itself from the water (the dye does not dissolve) and clogs up your blocks. Even your tubings will be stained within a week. If you want to buy new tubings and brush your block every 4-6months, go ahead and use a dye. Frankly in my opinion UV tubes look much better than dyes. Dyes just makes your loop seem corny.

3. RASA RX360 kit is more than enough for CPU and GPU combo. The pump is fairly decent but it definitely is not enough for NB, SB and multiple GPUs. There are better alternatives but since you seem to be under a budget, get the RASA kit. The beauty of RASA kit is that you can upgrade your parts later on while being extremely good for the money.
Edited by Clairvoyant129 - 1/7/11 at 5:22pm
 
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post #22 of 78
Thread Starter 
Thx for the answer

I will use UV tubes + distilled water and mayhems biocide.

As for the pump^^ dude? the Laing D5 Vario is currently among the TOP 5 of the best performing pumps that can be bought?Oo

CPU+GPU+North & South= no Problem
CPU+SLI = no Problem
Only for CPU+SLI+North & South+RAM= Problem if you don´t get the cap that allows the use of 2 D5 Vario

Rasa are great value/performance kits ...but keep in mind that they can only be aquired in the US to such low prices.
Europe is a little different^^ and as it so happens I live in Europe ...just look at the UK prices xD for example the RS240=150 pounds = 234 $ = 180 €...for that kinda money I could put together a much better performing kit myself

But if you really think the D5 is insufficient xD what else is more powerful ?
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post #23 of 78
ah, gotta love the stuff on the european market. it's harder to find that stuff in the states...I'm actually from eastern europe, but i live in the states now, and the stuff i've heard of people using over there is simply amazing...
Your pump is sooo beast, the block is soo sick as well...
like other people said the dye can clot, but the reason dyes tend to clot is because the pH of the water is raised...distilled water has a pH of 4 whereas dyed water has a pH of ~7...the higher the pH the more viscous the liquid...soap vs. acid for example...pumps tend to have a certain operating "frequency" if you will...what happens is that fluid isn't moved at a constant pace, but rather in pulses...if the liquid is thicker these pulses tend to effect amount of fluid stuck around the edges of the tubing...if the pH is too low this will happen and if it's too high it will happen...
what determines too low or too high is based entirely off of the model pump you have....since most people use distilled water the pumps made for people today have an operating pH range of about 4 to 6...

oh, also, as for your radiator...with that pump you could go for a quad...lol

edit: check out this res dude...it's so beautiful! lol http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11...tl=g30c97s1110
Edited by victorofhavoc - 1/7/11 at 7:02pm
    
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post #24 of 78
Thread Starter 

1.)Thanks for your post
2.)Pump is a real beast^^ I even thought thought about buying a rescap that can hold tow of those bad boys but I don´t wanna spend too much

3.)This whole UV tubing vs dye dilema is pointless ...I just want the best UV effect but also safety with for my parts.Also I am not sure what looks better ...Blue case + UV green tubes like in the videos I posted before or green case with blue UV tubing?

Help me find out what that guy used? what Tubes and what lights?

I love the tubes and lighting in this one

4.)The res is sick^^ unfortunetly this brand is unavailable for me in europe but the Phobya Balancer 250 is great too
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post #25 of 78
Thread Starter 
come on I really need some advice on that
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post #26 of 78
lol, my bad for being late on this...it's a blue uv tube and uv light...uv dye looks a bit more absent and you can see how it's not going all the way through the tubes...if i were you i'd go with green uv tubes and blue interior...currently i'm going with green interior and green uv tubes.....

green uv tubes have a softer more "pretty" glow in my opinion...the blue looks like that ugly mustang candy blue when the uv light isn't on...
    
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post #27 of 78
Thread Starter 
but it is a transparant blue UV tube right? not normal UV tubing? cause it looks kinda cyan colored...more light blue than usual ..or is that cause of the UV effect?.

Do you think I could get the same light blue with a blue cold cathode ? and I don´t know yet if I am gonna go UV green or UV blue^^...cold cathodes shine the strongest right?
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post #28 of 78
well most uv tubing is transparent...at least partially...the blue this person used is light blue...like candy blue...and a blue cold cathode is bright but won't light up the tubing like that...a uv cold cathode is plenty bright, believe me, and it will illuminate everything...check out xoxide.com they have a lot of cool case modding things...

also, you can get uv reactive gel pens and draw on your mobo, lol...that looks pretty cool, but after 2 months it starts to dim...as will the tubing after 1 year...
    
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post #29 of 78
that phobya rad is supposed to be really good, atleast thats what i hear.
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post #30 of 78
Quote:
Originally Posted by AliceInChains View Post
that phobya rad is supposed to be really good, atleast thats what i hear.
xspc, thermochill, and mora rads are better.

edit:aswell as sr1's in some cases.
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